I pulled my dash out (1974 duster non rally ) changed the lights put it back in now I have dash no lights and my alternator needle is pined to the plus side of the gauge and the wire on the back of the gauge ( negative ) wire is red hot
Dash help
- Thread starter Rayt52
- Start date
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You have created a short circuit somewhere. It may be right there at the ALT' gauge or you may have a pinched wire back there.
The 2 wires are red and black but the black wire isn't a direct to chassis ground. It is the ground side of the circuit. If those 2 wires are simply hooked up on the opposite posts the gauge would work backward but not be a fault or short.
The 2 wires are red and black but the black wire isn't a direct to chassis ground. It is the ground side of the circuit. If those 2 wires are simply hooked up on the opposite posts the gauge would work backward but not be a fault or short.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
There are two wires to the Ammeter. The red wire goes to the + . The black wire goes to the other post.
There are three bulbs that light the instrument cluster. The others are for stuff like high beam indicator and turn signals.
The illumination bulbs are on the same circuit as the tail lights. Check to insure the fuse is good.
You didn't say what kind of bulbs you installed. If you installed LEDs, it's possible that you got the polarity wrong. Unlike an incandescent bulb, the LED is sensitive to the polarity to which it is connected.
Also check that the pins on the IC haven't pushed the sleeves in the dash harness plug up so that they can't make a good connection.
There are three bulbs that light the instrument cluster. The others are for stuff like high beam indicator and turn signals.
The illumination bulbs are on the same circuit as the tail lights. Check to insure the fuse is good.
You didn't say what kind of bulbs you installed. If you installed LEDs, it's possible that you got the polarity wrong. Unlike an incandescent bulb, the LED is sensitive to the polarity to which it is connected.
Also check that the pins on the IC haven't pushed the sleeves in the dash harness plug up so that they can't make a good connection.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Beats me what's going on. Something's rotten in Rhode Island to state the obvious.
Two more ideas:
1. Leave the battery on a trickle charger. Don't need to remove battery, but disconnect ground.
2. Check for short or steady current drain. Turn off all accessories. Put a multimeter in series with the battery. There should be no current draw. If you have put in an aftermarket radio that has memory (saves your station settings), it may be drawing on the battery. I had this happen back in the 80s. What a PITA.
If you have a current drain, you'll have to eliminate good circuits until you find the bad. My guess at this point is that the problem is going to be in the wiring behind the instrument cluster.
Good luck.
Two more ideas:
1. Leave the battery on a trickle charger. Don't need to remove battery, but disconnect ground.
2. Check for short or steady current drain. Turn off all accessories. Put a multimeter in series with the battery. There should be no current draw. If you have put in an aftermarket radio that has memory (saves your station settings), it may be drawing on the battery. I had this happen back in the 80s. What a PITA.
If you have a current drain, you'll have to eliminate good circuits until you find the bad. My guess at this point is that the problem is going to be in the wiring behind the instrument cluster.
Good luck.
64ragtop
Well-Known Member
I would pull the negative battery cable, remove the cluster and check for a damaged insulator on the ammeter, causing a short.
Or, a pinched wire on the red wire side of the meter. Failing that, I'd move to the bulkhead connector, hold my breath,
cross my fingers and pull the engine side of the connector loose. If none of the previous checks told the story,
the bulkhead connector sometimes overheats and melt the plastic housing, then short to another port of the connector.
ATB
BC
Or, a pinched wire on the red wire side of the meter. Failing that, I'd move to the bulkhead connector, hold my breath,
cross my fingers and pull the engine side of the connector loose. If none of the previous checks told the story,
the bulkhead connector sometimes overheats and melt the plastic housing, then short to another port of the connector.
ATB
BC
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