jeffs
New Member
can not get my dash lights to go on, what am I missing? only thing I noticed today (has to be fixed either way) two melted wirers in engine compartment near brake booster?
dash lights not working
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Dash lights are a bit of a trick.
There are two power sources to the headlight switch
One comes off the ammeter and is NOT fused, only for headlights
The second comes off the tail fuse and provides tail/park and dash light power.
That power goes through the switch, and through the dimmer control, and out on a brown or tan wire, and runs down to the "inst" fuse on one end of the fuse panel.
Through that fuse and then out to all dimmer controlled dash lights on orange wiring.
So with the tail/ park working, wiggle the 'eck out of the dimmer control, and look for any activity, radio, heater, or cluster. Turn the control "towards the left."
Then access the fuse panel and check for voltage on both ends of the inst fuse.
There are two power sources to the headlight switch
One comes off the ammeter and is NOT fused, only for headlights
The second comes off the tail fuse and provides tail/park and dash light power.
That power goes through the switch, and through the dimmer control, and out on a brown or tan wire, and runs down to the "inst" fuse on one end of the fuse panel.
Through that fuse and then out to all dimmer controlled dash lights on orange wiring.
So with the tail/ park working, wiggle the 'eck out of the dimmer control, and look for any activity, radio, heater, or cluster. Turn the control "towards the left."
Then access the fuse panel and check for voltage on both ends of the inst fuse.
rc_brooks
Well-Known Member
A quick check with the ohmmeter on the switch should at least indicate whether the switch is the culprit. Dimmer switches are prone to failure after 30 years or more in service 
If the switch is the problem, you can often pull the switch apart (prying the tabs open on the switch) and clean the rheostat. I'd say about 70% of the time I've gotten them going again. Not that the part is expensive, but it's nice to keep the old unit if you can.
If the switch is the problem, you can often pull the switch apart (prying the tabs open on the switch) and clean the rheostat. I'd say about 70% of the time I've gotten them going again. Not that the part is expensive, but it's nice to keep the old unit if you can.
jeffs
New Member
Thanks! will give it a shot.
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