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Pull the round multi pin connector off the back of the instrument panel and stick the orange terminal [or just stick the orange wire with a 12V test light]. Pull out the headlamp switch one notch, rotate the knob. The test light should go dim or bright. If it does, the panel has to come out. Sometimes the pin will break away from the circuit board. A little solder dab will do ya. Test all your lights before you put it back in. [Using a ground wire.] -------good luck------
Thanks, I'm going to start on it this afternoon. I'll check that first.
I have the same problem with my 67 Barracuda. pulled the instrument panel out today and this is what I have found so far. Headlamp switch was corroded and dimmer contacts almost worn off. The pins for the round plug on instrument cluster had on pin missing and three others loose. Cleaned the circuit boards with steel wool and tested lamps. Found two lamps working as should and the rest would only give a dim light even on test bench, one completely dead. Traced wire from an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and found it to poorly spliced into orange wire for instrument cluster. I'll see if I can get a new switch and lights tomorrow and am hoping that the instrument lights work. My fuel, oil pressure and water temp gauges are not working so I'll see if I can test them as well. Any known common problems on the gauges?
The common issue for the gauges is the voltage limiter. It is a rectangular box with 3 prongs. 1 prong is grounded, 1 prong is 12V from ignition run, and the other prong feeds a lower voltage to the gauges. It will show as a dim flashing light when using a test light. The pin connectors must be carefully soldered to the printed circuit board using rosin core solder. Corrosion on the lamp holders can be a problem.
Thanks for the help! Having trouble locating the voltage limiter, do you know where it's located on a 67 Barracuda? I have a small condenser that is attached to the circuit board going to all three gauges. That is where I would expect to see a voltage limiter. I can't find either one on the schematic.
The rally dashes have the voltage regulator inside the fuel gauge. It is a lot more work to replace them. There are a lot of threads on here about them.
Thanks, found it. Mine (in fuel gauge) seems to be working. Cleaning and fixing grounds hopefully will work.
Did you ever get dash lights working? Been reading threads for days and cant seem to find an answer. Seems everyone has same problem but nobody solves it.
Nope. Honestly, I got tired of screwing with it. The lights on my aftermarket gauges work, so that's good enough for now. I rarely drive after dark. I'll probably work on that again once it stays warm outside.
Did you give out the issue with dash lights? I have same issue
Are you sure dash is grounded? I ran an extra wire from one of the screws on the dash circuit board to the dash frame.
I replaced screws and buzzed across them to check continuity. Where can I add another ground on the cluster????
All the orange wires should be hooked together. Can you find an orange wire, maybe the one to the radio and hook it to 12 V and see if the dash lights come on? Orange wire is dash lights. if the lights don’t light, it is probably a ground problem.
When I pull flat pin connector off, I have power at orange wire. I also have new bulb sockets with led. All the lights worked when I had the cluster out.
Hook one end of a wire to screw on the circuit board that goes into the metal dash housing. Hook the other end to the frame. I took the drivers kick panel out and used a self tapping sheet metal screw to make the ground. Put star washers under both screws so you get a god”bite”. I put star washers under all the screws on the circuit board on the back of the dash to get better connections.
Ok I'll try that. Thanks
Will the power on the orange wire light up a bulb? Try that. if there is good power on the orange wire, it is one of two things probably. 1. Grounding issue. 2. Orange wire connection to dash circuit board, could be the circular connector or pin.