Dead ignition

[r55nls2002]

So the car will not start. I just replaced the ignition/key switch. I am wondering if the new ignition switch is not wired the same as the old one. I had my daughter turn the car over and only got 1 spark when I tested it with an old plug I had. I also had 5 volts at the coil and when she keyed to car it dropped to zero, which explains it only firing once. Any one have an idea of what I should do next?
Randy-

73, 340 dart….

 

[70dustah]

HI randy, you should have 12volts during starting and 5volts during run position. Check for start volts at ballast input to see if it fried during switch replacement and back track to ignition switch. I'm assuming it ran before you replaced the ignition switch. Next check for 12 volts at column connector.if not then remove switch and check operation. If you haven't downloaded the service manual I highly recommend doing so.

 

[67Dart273]

Pretty much above. You can in fact download a free 73 manual (in two parts) from MyMopar. By the way, those came from guys here on FABO, as did a few others posted over there

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Bear in mind there are TWO ignition terminals on the switch. One, IGN1, is the "run" and is hot ONLY in "run."

IGN2 is the coil resistor bypass in starting, is only hot in start, and IS THE only source of ignition voltage during cranking.

Did you replace the switch because it quit? I would suspect the switch itself, the switch connector, the bulkhead connector.

YOUR CAR may have a white connector under the hood which separates the engine from the firewall. Others on here have suggested bypassing that connector

 

[r55nls2002]

Here is the story… When I got the car it ran ruff, as in you had to keep the gas pedal half down to keep it from stalling out. So… I drained the gas and put on a new Holley 670 street avenger, because the Eldenbrock 600 preformer was toast and the choke spring was broke. It ran better… I then noticed the plug wires were arching and needed to change out the plugs anyway, so I did that with a cap and rotor button. I then go to fire it up nothing…. Replace the ignition switch…. I ran for a sec and then nothing again, at least the starter turns over.

 

[70dustah]

Do you have 12volts to coil at start? If not you can hook a jumper to coil + and start it. Just don't leave it there as it will overheat the coil. Did you mix up the firing order? 18436572

 

[r55nls2002]

Do you have 12volts to coil at start? If not you can hook a jumper to coil + and start it. Just don't leave it there as it will overheat the coil. Did you mix up the firing order? 18436572

No just 5 volts at start. I also check the firing order.

Side note… I used a set of MSD wires and the fitment is terrible. They want to rest on the driver side manifold. Any suggestions on a nice set of wires that fit correctly would be greatly appreciated too.

I will also check the ballast tomorrow and report back.

Also thank manual download link.

 

[70dustah]

Most guys on here use Taylor plug wires.

 

[r55nls2002]

HI randy, you should have 12volts during starting and 5volts during run position. Check for start volts at ballast input to see if it fried during switch replacement and back track to ignition switch. I'm assuming it ran before you replaced the ignition switch. Next check for 12 volts at column connector.if not then remove switch and check operation. If you haven't downloaded the service manual I highly recommend doing so.

So I have 12 volts a the ballast input and nothing coming out. I guess i will be placing an order for a new ballast and coil because they are cheap enough.

Thank you for the help. I will update when I get the stuff installed on the car.