Degreasing rocker shafts and lube problem

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Wally-T

Wally-T

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Hello again friends.
My 64 273 needs a thorough internal degreasing. I'm hoping to do it myself to save some money lol. One problem is that the rocker shafts are clogged with goo, probably from years of old dinosaur juice and poor maintenance. So has anyone here cleaned these out without removing the cup plugs on the ends of the shafts? I've been trying to find a chemical that I can soak them in to dissolve the crap inside but no luck yet.
The other problem is that I don't think I'm getting enough lube to the timing chain. The slinger is in place but I have the cover off and it seems quite dry in there. Also, the timing chain and gears were new about 5000 miles ago and the chain seems to have stretched quite a bit. There was hardly any deflection at all when it was new so I'm wondering if a lack of lube would cause premature stretching. The gears and chain aren't turning blue so no overheating is apparent.
Thanks again, Wally
 
remove cups and run brush through it. also, you have a crank slinger on crank? it slings oil on chain as engine runs
 
Must remove cups and brush or it will never be really clean!
The double rollers tend to get a bit looser the first thousand miles
or even less = Normal.
I put my cams in a degree or two advanced to compensate.
 
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Clean the shafts as described above. Use an engine passage cleaning brush.
I like to soak them in solvent or gas first for a while before to help loosen the gunk up. Use a toothpick after to poke stuff out of the oiling holes and banana grooves if any remains. Finish up with a light polishing with 400 and 800 grit emery paper, rinse and brush one more time and install new end plugs.
 
This is something you really need to be careful with. Cleaning the top can mean dropping that goo into pan and stopping the oil pickup up. I would proceed very carefully.
 
You must be aware of the rocker shaft(s) orientation when reassembling the valvetrain. Make sure to use a good FSM to consult before reassembly. If you fail to orient the shafts correctly, you'll have a whole lot more problems than a little sludge.
 
I would soak them in deisel for a few days then blow out with compressed air. That should get the bulk of crap out if not all. Not sure I would remove the end caps ... how do you guys ensure a tight fit when you replace them ?
 
mbaird said:
I would soak them in deisel for a few days then blow out with compressed air. That should get the bulk of crap out if not all. Not sure I would remove the end caps ... how do you guys ensure a tight fit when you replace them ?
Click to expand...
Use new ones for starters..or tap and pipe plug.

Anyone ever boil them?
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Use new ones for starters..or tap and pipe plug.

Anyone ever boil them?
Click to expand...

I was going to mention boiling. Should work well.
Are the plugs a standard size ? My concern is that unlike the cooling system the oil galleys could see 80+ PSI.
 
The end plugs are interference fit like frost plugs. I usually freeze the plugs in the freezer overnight, heat the shafts in the oven, hold them upright in a plastic jawed vice with one end hitting the workbench to hold in place and the end receiving the cap straight up. They take convincing to be knocked into place.

I have bought plugs at Advance Auto and from Rocker Arms Unlimited in the past.
 
mbaird said:
I would soak them in deisel for a few days then blow out with compressed air. That should get the bulk of crap out if not all. Not sure I would remove the end caps ... how do you guys ensure a tight fit when you replace them ?
Click to expand...
New freeze plugs. Some folks thread them with NPT threads and put pipe plugs in.
 
also, i found soaking chain in a can of oil, as i assemble short block ensures chain will last longer. this way all rollers get lubed . also i use the crank slinger .
 
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