degreeing a mp 292 509

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o1heavy

1974 dart sport
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getting ready to order the parts to degree the mp 509 cam
in my 360 all ready have the degree wheel,stop and dial gauge

from what i understand should only need the offset key package
right??????

thanks for for help
 
getting ready to order the parts to degree the mp 509 cam
in my 360 all ready have the degree wheel,stop and dial gauge

from what i understand should only need the offset key package
right??????

thanks for for help

Yes:thumblef:
 
I have degree several cam's. Not one of them was correct.
and all of them had the true roller timing sets.

There is a lot of reason why it won't be as the cam manufacture spec's it at.
1 quick reason is...........
Crank "line bored" will cause a brand new timing chain to have slack and there for not be correct with a straight up key way.

same apply if the cam bore is worked over.

What if chry mist the spec by a few thousands............

It will run just fine if you don't degree the cam
But you will get the most of the cam if you do.
 
I have also degree'd several cams and about 20% of them come out within 1 degree which is about as close as you can get it. Your right there are a lot of variables and just because a timing set is labeled a true roller doesn't mean anything either. A couple yrs. ago I rounded up 5 different timing sets that were true roller's and only 1 set (Cloyes) was within 1 degree. The others ranged from being off by 2 degrees to as much as 5 degrees.
 
Every cam I have ever installed, (many many many) have needed some kinda attention, most like 2*, bu tstill, 2* in the wrong direction makes a difference.
 
I have also degree'd several cams and about 20% of them come out within 1 degree which is about as close as you can get it. Your right there are a lot of variables and just because a timing set is labeled a true roller doesn't mean anything either. A couple yrs. ago I rounded up 5 different timing sets that were true roller's and only 1 set (Cloyes) was within 1 degree. The others ranged from being off by 2 degrees to as much as 5 degrees.

Fishy, wasn't trying to pock at you or start a ***** session here.

I don't consider it degreed until it's with in .5 of a degree..........even though every instruction sheet i have read said "ONE" DEGREE OF TIMING, WILL NOT, BE SEEN IN PERFORMANCE!

I'm just anal that way:D
 
Fishy, wasn't trying to pock at you or start a ***** session here.

I don't consider it degreed until it's with in .5 of a degree..........even though every instruction sheet i have read said "ONE" DEGREE OF TIMING, WILL NOT, BE SEEN IN PERFORMANCE!

I'm just anal that way:D

YOUR HIRED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :angel4:
 
Remember too, most camshaft grinders grind 4* advance INTO the camshaft. I cannot remember if whomever grinds the MP cams does that or not. I would certainly try to find out.
 
thanks for the input ,
i've ran this cam before in the same setup (x heads ,kb190s )
in my car before and it ran very well (12.5ish )
just trying to pick up a few ponies
agin thanks
 
I've always had to compromise when I do a cam seems like my last MP cam had a 108 centerline and using the offset dowels and the different bottom keyways I had at my disposal I had only 2 choices of advancing the cam. I could either get 107.5 or 105 and I left it at 107.5 .
 
Fishy, wasn't trying to pock at you or start a ***** session here.

I don't consider it degreed until it's with in .5 of a degree..........even though every instruction sheet i have read said "ONE" DEGREE OF TIMING, WILL NOT, BE SEEN IN PERFORMANCE!

I'm just anal that way:D

I didn't think anything about it Cudafever. I'm pretty anal about things too and I'd love to get it within 1/2 degree every time too but a lot of the time it's impossible unless your dealing with an infinitely adjustable top timing gear.
 
I've got a 508 Mopar cam. It is a VERY stout cam in a 360. It takes some compression and gears to really make it work though.
 
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