Did Factory Use Washers on Water Pump/Timing Cover Bolts?

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dibbons

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Getting ready to torque down the w/p and timing cover. A few of my old bolts have round washers and others don't an I wonder what is the correct bolt installation, with or without 'em? Thank you.
 
My engine, a 440, has captive washers on the timing cover bolts. My w/p has split lock washers.
If you are doing a small block check hole depth before installing timing cover bolts. I believe there is a possibility of breaking into the # 1 cylinder wall on certain engines if you use too long of a bolt. A search in the technical forums will probably give you better information.
 
I'm about to be in same boat, and my plan was to use Grade 8 black flange bolts. Not sure about a flat washer under those. The water pump bolts are a mix of long (maybe 5 inches) and short.....maybe 1 1/2" to 2". An odd mix either way. Related, what sealant ought to be used on those bolt threads? Some end in coolant, some in oil, some in space.

I assume there is no torque spec other than snug them down to compress the gaskets to seal?

Lastly, what should be done with the long right side lower bolt that is used to mount alternator brackets? Something to prevent the corrosion reaction between bolt and timing cover. Butter it up with anti-seize? Other?
 

I'm about to be in same boat, and my plan was to use Grade 8 black flange bolts. Not sure about a flat washer under those. The water pump bolts are a mix of long (maybe 5 inches) and short.....maybe 1 1/2" to 2". An odd mix either way. Related, what sealant ought to be used on those bolt threads? Some end in coolant, some in oil, some in space.

I assume there is no torque spec other than snug them down to compress the gaskets to seal?

Lastly, what should be done with the long right side lower bolt that is used to mount alternator brackets? Something to prevent the corrosion reaction between bolt and timing cover. Butter it up with anti-seize? Other?
I always use the red permatex for WP bolts and the exhaust manifold bolts that go into the water jackets. I use oil in a little squirt bottle for most other bolts, but if you wanted to use antiseize, I don’t see that as an issue. The ARP bolt kit for water pump are flange style and also use a flat and split washer fwiw
 
Here's a method to help prevent corrosion on the long bolts that go thru the timing cover.
Get a spray can of black epoxy paint and apply two thin coats of paint to the non threaded part of bolt.
Then apply a small amount of anti seize compound or Teflon paste to threads.
 
What I have done on the long bolts that tend to corrode and glue the water pump housing on to the engine is fill the hole with rtv as I'm putting the bolt in (be sure your not pushing rtv into the holes in the block)

Basically filling the gap between bolt and housing so corrosion can't start.
 
To answer the OPs original question yes they did. The factory used concave washers called Bellevue washers. You can get them on eBay if you want or are seeking a stock look. If not flat and lock washers will work. And good points on bolt length and sealing methods everyone!
 
Here is where the bolts go.

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No washers. (this is a 67 273)
The two bolts and the spacer that hold the alternator bracket on have a washer (this was a pre-paint, the spacer was on for the final paint), the third bolt on the alternator bracket was not painted as it went on with the bracket and wasn't needed to hold the pump on. (I think there were some years or engines where the alternator bracket was painted?)
If you have power steering there was a thick washer on the bolt that goes on the slot.
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Alan
 
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