Did I waste a bunch of money?

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MopaR&D

MopaR&D

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Well after driving my recently "top-end rebuilt" 318 for a couple hundred miles it seems like the rings might be going. It's burning oil (especially when hot) quite a bit so it could be the intake (couldn't figure out how to get to those center bolts to torque them properly) but I can't be sure. Compression last time I checked was around 100-105 psi for all cylinders which is a bit low too. Anyway, would I be able to transfer the heads, cam, lifters, and valvetrain (and of course manifolds) to another 318 short-block in better condition some time in the future? Also how much do good 318 short-blocks usually go for?
 
It's a bummer they don't come cheaper due to be a smaller engine. I thnk you can get one for about the same price as any other S/B Mopar. Though the swap can be done.
 

Getting a torque wrench on those bolts is impossible. I just use a closed end wrench and the "click type torque wrench built into my elbow". :) Quality aftermarket bolt kits like the ones from ARP have smaller 3/8" & 5/16" bolt heads that make life much easier. You can also use a crowsfoot extension and do the calculation to get the correct torque, that's the right way to do it.

Anytime you increase HP, you increase cylinder pressure. Increasing cylinder pressure on a worn engine is asking for problems and I think I mentioned this to you beforehand. That being said, no you didn't "waste" your money due to the experience you've gained and you can move the heads/cam/lifters etc. to another shortblock. Be sure to keep the lifters in order so each lifter will ride on the same lobe it came off or you'll waste your cam. It's a good idea to keep pushrods and rockers in order too.

Your best bet is to find a shortblock and just do a cheapy rebuild. You should be able to find a 318 for next to nothing. Better yet would be to find a 360 block, bore it, add some cast flat tops and gain 75 hp.
 
Its actually very common when you freshen a set of heads on an old, high milage motor for the rings to start to leak a lot due to the better valve seal you now have. I might try a can of that "restore" stuff to see if it can help. Probably worth the few bucks to try it. Other than that, find a decent short block.
 
I don't see much point in getting another 318 block if it needs to be rebuilt; like Ramcharger said I might as well get a 360 and do that. I was thinking more of a low-mileage shortblock that wouldn't really need any work. Besides, if I'm going to a 360 I need a better transmission (4-speed all the way) and rear end too. Jeez, I don't know, I may just throw that out the window and beat on this engine until I can do a 360/4-speed conversion.
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
I don't see much point in getting another 318 block if it needs to be rebuilt; like Ramcharger said I might as well get a 360 and do that. I was thinking more of a low-mileage shortblock that wouldn't really need any work. Besides, if I'm going to a 360 I need a better transmission (4-speed all the way) and rear end too. Jeez, I don't know, I may just throw that out the window and beat on this engine until I can do a 360/4-speed conversion.
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That sounds like a good plan. Save up then do it right one time the first time.
 
Touching on the top end bottom end rebuild scenario, I`ve heard this and would currently practice it, but back when I was a kid, 70`s I bought a used 74 Pinto with 98 thousand Mi on her. No more than 2 weeks after buying she started to smoke, hard tellin what they used in crankcase to delay that just right. Anyhow I had the head rebuilt, drove that car for years and put 250,000 mi on her before she went to the yard in the sky, and was still running:-D
 
why not just put a re-ring kit in the 318 you have? either way you are gonna have to tear it out and apart and if your block, pistons, etc. are useable then that will save you a couple hundred at least.
 
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