Did my 727 just die on me?

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straightlinespeed said:
I've thought about all the crude in the rest of the system, and I've been trying to figure out a way to flush the coolers. The lines are the easy part.
Click to expand...

I use a 5/16 hose about 5 feet long with solvent (read gas:D) in it and blow it through the lines into an antifreeze jug.
Fill the hose, put it over the end of the line and blow it through the lines and cooler multiple times with my compressor from both directions.
Both directions because crap gets caught in corners and the reverse blow through will get it.

I'll do it alternating one way then the other and back and forth multiple times.
 
Depending on how much metal is in the pan, I will either blow air through the lines, or replace the cooler, if there is a catastrophic converter failure.
As for what to put in the trans on rebuild, here's my preference:
TF2(street car), set base to 80psi
Red Alto clutches, but regular Raybestos steels, not the Kolene's. That black stuff comes off, and was intended for race only, so for the street, I skip them.
The reverse band, if kevlar, it is okay to reuse, if you inspect and see no impregnated metal
Billet goodies, I would do the 4.2 lever, anchor, strut, accumulator. The front servo, use the Sonnax billet cover, the full replacement I reserve for much higher power levels.
If you want to go one step further, I do the billet direct piston, machined pressure plate, to up the clutch count to 5 over stock(4).
 
straightlinespeed said:
I've thought about all the crude in the rest of the system, and I've been trying to figure out a way to flush the coolers. The lines are the easy part.
Click to expand...
Hey Ramie, When we rebuilt my 727 last year we fabricated a tool from an old input shaft so we could spin the internals of the converter on the workbench. Added a drain plug to it as well so we flushed it out several times then flushed it the last time with tranny fluid. You can als grab a can of cooler line flush that you hook up to the cooler lines and flush those as well as the tranny cooler. Bring the converter over some day and we'll get it flushed out, if ya want.
 
AJ/FormS said:
If you use gas, keep in mind that when it is fully aerated this way, it will be highly flammable.
I have installed many TF2 kits with very good results.
Click to expand...

So True, but thanks again for the warning.

FredS said:
Depending on how much metal is in the pan, I will either blow air through the lines, or replace the cooler, if there is a catastrophic converter failure.
As for what to put in the trans on rebuild, here's my preference:
TF2(street car), set base to 80psi
Red Alto clutches, but regular Raybestos steels, not the Kolene's. That black stuff comes off, and was intended for race only, so for the street, I skip them.
The reverse band, if kevlar, it is okay to reuse, if you inspect and see no impregnated metal
Billet goodies, I would do the 4.2 lever, anchor, strut, accumulator. The front servo, use the Sonnax billet cover, the full replacement I reserve for much higher power levels.
If you want to go one step further, I do the billet direct piston, machined pressure plate, to up the clutch count to 5 over stock(4).
Click to expand...

The converter didnt fail, and I would say I had enough metal in the filter to cover a quarter, which included part of the band lining. On the magnet in the pan, I had about 1/8" of grey sludge stuck to it. I can only assume that is also metal. The fluid looked good on the stick and I didnt see any flecks in the oil, but Im sure some of the finer particles were pumped thru the system.

Much appreciated on the input of what to put into it. Question though. I've read on a few forums to install the 3.8 lever if using a flex band and the 4.2 on a solid band. I assume the lever ratio determines how hard it shifts? I want firm but not harsh shifts.

MobileCustoms said:
Hey Ramie, When we rebuilt my 727 last year we fabricated a tool from an old input shaft so we could spin the internals of the converter on the workbench. Added a drain plug to it as well so we flushed it out several times then flushed it the last time with tranny fluid. You can als grab a can of cooler line flush that you hook up to the cooler lines and flush those as well as the tranny cooler. Bring the converter over some day and we'll get it flushed out, if ya want.
Click to expand...

Thanks Doug, that is an interesting idea. However, Im going to send the converter in. For just over $100 I cant complain about a basically brand new converter with a 2 yr. warranty. I'll look for that cooler line flush though and run that thru.
 
Shift timing, overlap are main concerns. You could use the 3.8 or the 4.2 on the flex band I mentioned. Solid bands, I wouldn't go over 3.8. Too much leverage, and bind will occur.
 
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