did some welding now no start condition.

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I still disagree.
Welding ground should be placed as close to the work as possible.
So I put the clamp on the front subframe and try to weld on the rear...
Current has to travel thru various body parts linked by rusty bolts, brake line, exhaust pipes, E brake cable or wiring to complete the circuit.
I've worked as a welder 14 years and now as an electrician.
Ain't hatin... Just sayin....

:burnout:
 
Dfr360cuda said:
I still disagree. Welding ground should be placed as close to the work as possible. So I put the clamp on the front subframe and try to weld on the rear...Current has to travel thru various body parts linked by rusty bolts, brake line, exhaust pipes, E brake cable or wiring to complete the circuit. I've worked as a welder 14 years and now as an electrician. Ain't hatin... Just sayin....:burnout:
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I've been a pipe welder fitter for about 25 years that's why I was wondering if I messed something up when I was welding. I guess cars are a little different then alot of equipment I've been around. I've screwed up some pretty exspensive equipment by striking an ark with the ground to far away. I can get where you where coming from. Thanks for your input.
 
Thanks for posting up the solution:thumblef:
C
 
Glad you got it running! I put an orange box in my duster 10+ years ago...went through 3 coils and I doubt I had more than 200 miles on it each time...so I've felt your pain. Definitely get a spare coil! I yanked the electronic out and put my 30 yr old Mallory dual point back in and haven't had an issue on the road since. I have the electronic distributor/orange box still which I might put back in if I get tired of doing points or experience failures from Chinese parts (condenser). I don't know if a poor ground from the ecu will negatively impact coils, but am mopar kept telling me to ground it better as I ate up coils. Maybe the orange box was bad? Would give me trouble when it got hot idling in traffic. If it goes back in I'm going to ground it to the battery and or engine block...not the firewall. Good luck!
 
Dfr360cuda said:
I still disagree. Welding ground should be placed as close to the work as possible. So I put the clamp on the front subframe and try to weld on the rear...Current has to travel thru various body parts linked by rusty bolts, brake line, exhaust pipes, E brake cable or wiring to complete the circuit. I've worked as a welder 14 years and now as an electrician. Ain't hatin... Just sayin....:burnout:
Click to expand...
It's a good practice to get into the habit of placing the ground clamp close to your work as late model ecu's can be pricey. You only have to buy one to learn and it's per I-Car recommendations.
 
It does matter where you ground something. Ground to the front bumper and weld on the back bumper and current flows through the entire car. you always ground as near as possible to where you are welding and make sure nothing electronic is between.
 
Mad Dart said:
YOU will NEVER see the difference in weld quality. I don't care how close you have your ground to your weld on your CAR.
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They are not concerned about the weld quality, it is the electrical effects on components when welding on the car they were questioning.

I have been reading for 157+ years!
 
n00blike said:
They are not concerned about the weld quality, it is the electrical effects on components in the car they were questioning. I have been reading for 157+ years!
Click to expand...

Yeah some dumb *** might ground the welder to their electronic ignition module, their transmission, engine block or drive shaft? Those guys don't belong under a welding hood!

I don't know anyone who has messed up their electrical system by grounding to the chassis when welding on the chassis front to back. Lol

Most on here don't work on their cars and repeat what they have read or heard. I go with the latter, guys that actually do it like me. You can learn a lot from a dummy.
 
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