dimed lights and corrosion

[duster731]

I have a 73 duster and a 318 altenator is new, battery is tested and is good as well but I have a problem where when im sitting at a light and the lights are not bright at all and the volts look like its at 8 and when I go the lights get bright again.. also my battery leaks acid all over the engine compartment and started to rust so I took the battery out and tray sanded everything down and put some rust stuff on the bad spots and reprinted the spots but I don't want the battery to do it again any ideas

 

[67Dart273]

Frankly it sounds like you have a multitude of problems and "I could write a book," or more correctly "books have been written."

First the battery itself may have a problem

Next, when the engine is up on RPM, it could be overcharging. Could be simple, need a ground jumper from engine to regulator, or worse

The COMMON problem (Google up "Mad electrical") is that the old bulkhead connectors are JUST not up to the task. So consider performing the popular so called bulkhead/ ammeter bypass. This will remove a lot of the load off the bulkhead connector.

It MIGHT be you have either an older series alternator--no known for low RPM underperformance, OR it just may have a problem, like one phase of the stator damaged or a one or two bad diodes.

Last, it may be time to consider installing headlight relays.

It MAY be time for a new harness

 

[duster731]

If the battery was tested good it can still be bad? Also what about my voltage regulated would that cause over charging..... if the battery was bad or I hate the fact that it leaks would getting an optima battery fix the acid problem

 

[67Dart273]

Depends on who/ what "tested it." Maybe, maybe not

Don't just jump on the regulator, either. I've posted before some of what causes ovecharging. Part of it can be voltage drop on the positive side of the harness feeding the regulator (voltage drop on the entire path from battery--through the firewall--to the ignition switch connector--through the switch contacts--back out the switch connector--back out the firewall--and finally to the regulator)

Ground---the entire path from the regulator--bolted to firewall--grounded to engine block--grounded to battery.

About .2V (two tenths) voltage drop in either path is too much, and the charging voltage goes up as the voltage drop goes up

And of course, it CAN be the regulator.

I would not go out and spend money on a (especially expensive) new battery until you get the problem in hand

 

[duster731]

Autozone tested the battery so tomorrow I'm gonna start looking at my electrical system and hopefully find the problem thanks for your help

 

[duster731]

ok nw problem now te car overcharges alot on high rpm or accelerating down the street and at idle its undercharging like it wants to shut off and lights are so dim.. any idea i have replaced the v regulater and my battery ground cable. the battery was tested and its good and the alenator is good..