Dipstick Install

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blackace

blackace

The KING of flats
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I can't install one of these without messing one up. I have tried everything used a open end wrench over the tube, ground the end, etc.. and I still manage to damage one. Trying to get the motor buttoned up so I can run on my test stand.


HELP!!!!!!!

This is driving me crazy. I must have bought atleast 5 or more and every single one gets FUBARed!

I know I posted this before but there has to be an easier way. These engine builders, hot rod guys etc... have built thousands of them and manage to install them without damaging one, but I can't! LOL!!!!!!

HELP!!!!! HELP!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
When I rebuilt ny 340, I bought the chrome ones from Mopar, but they are straight and need a slight bend to get by the fuel pump. I tried heat, but didnt want to discolour the chrome. Broke 3 and finally went back to an original.
To get them in the hole in the block just put a bolt in the top and tapped into place.
 
If its the MP chrome or similar, I take mine to the grinder and roll it across the grinder wheel, then clean it up on the wire wheel, then blow it clean, then test fit.....repeat the process. ALL aftermarket dipsticks seem to suck.
 
I have tried every dipstick Summit sells. LOL!!!

On one install I tapped the tube with a piece of wood and wound up mushrooming the top.
 
Are you using a original small block dip stick tube or a chrome Mopar Performance dip stick tube ?

An original tube works best if you can find one. Plus it has the "shorter" dip stick, which I like.

If you are using the Mopar Performance DS, they are a little wider. I reamed the hole in the block slightly, with a drill bit. I had the motor on a stand though. Might be tough if the motor is in the car.Dont over due it, were talking milimeters.

My bet is you are using the MP dip-stick.
Best advice,try and find an original, will fit like a glove.

Also put a touch of RTV on the tube before pushing it in. Seals it nice.
The wrench around it works well to, just tapping it in.
 
Problem is where the new MP ones are welded for the stop. The bend needs to be close and as soon as I tried bending the welds were breaking. I too ground a taper to help it slide into the block easier.
 
Don't feel bad, I ruined the first, got the second to fit, though. Neither were chrome. I tapered the end that fits into the block a little bit on a grinder, applied a very thin coat of sealer to the tip to aid it to slide down into the block, and used a flare nut wrench around base and hit the wrench with a hammer. Finally got it to seat. And like 72swinger340 said, I had to put a little bend in mine to get around the fuel pump.
 
When I did my 360 I used a short chrome one and ground down the end so it was a little thinner at the bottom like a wedge, smeared some oil on it then used the closed end of an open/closed end wrench and a hammer to get it started, then I used a piece of wood over the top and tapped it in place. I had to pull a few slivers of wood out of the tube but if you do it without the oil pan on it is easy.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Are you using a original small block dip stick tube or a chrome Mopar Performance dip stick tube ?

An original tube works best if you can find one. Plus it has the "shorter" dip stick, which I like.

If you are using the Mopar Performance DS, they are a little wider. I reamed the hole in the block slightly, with a drill bit. I had the motor on a stand though. Might be tough if the motor is in the car.Dont over due it, were talking milimeters.

My bet is you are using the MP dip-stick.
Best advice,try and find an original, will fit like a glove.

Also put a touch of RTV on the tube before pushing it in. Seals it nice.
The wrench around it works well to, just tapping it in.
Click to expand...

blackace said:
How did you catch the shaving from the bit?
Click to expand...


did you read the whole post he says it was on a stand.....
 
I did read the whole post. My motor is on the stand complete with just a couple things left to do. Like install the dipstick, tighten down the intake, install the dizzy and with wires and plugs. Just because he did it on the stand doesn't mean it was complete or not, or had the oil pan on or not.
 
I messed up my MP one. Just bought a Milodon braided stainless. It's o-ringed and slips right in.
 
I like you waited until the engine was assembled before I installed the tube. Maybe we can all start remembering to do this as a first step. I bought an aftermarket one and ground it down then beat it in. Of course it was longer than the orginal so I cut it to stock length.
 
Like was said, grind or file the end to bevel it, then clean it up with a wire brush. If it's still too tight throw it in the freezer for a few hours or overnight. I know it sounds corny, but freezing will cause the metal to contract slightly. It's a trick old school mechanics used to install freeze plugs. Good luck.
 
blackace said:
I did read the whole post. My motor is on the stand complete with just a couple things left to do. Like install the dipstick, tighten down the intake, install the dizzy and with wires and plugs. Just because he did it on the stand doesn't mean it was complete or not, or had the oil pan on or not.
Click to expand...

The pan was off when I did it.

I litterly took a cats hair from the hole.

Like others have said, grind the chrome off the end of it. Taper the end.
The chrome on these things might be what is enabling them from going in. It certainly doesnt help.

The freezer trick is interesting.

You never did say which DS you were using ?
Mopar Per Chrome ?
 
Dang JayD, wish I thought of that when I needed it! Can't hurt, good idea.
 
You grind or sand the bottom so it has a light slip fit. Put an oring on it to seal. When its bolted to the engine mount it isn't going anywhere. No leaks, removes in 2 seconds.
 
Besides the freezer trick, you can get a can of instant freeze from an electronics store and spray the end of the tube and not have to wait for hours in the freezer.
 
JayD said:
If it's still too tight throw it in the freezer for a few hours or overnight. I know it sounds corny, but freezing will cause the metal to contract slightly. It's a trick old school mechanics used to install freeze plugs. Good luck.
Click to expand...


i agree, I had a hard time getting it in, ruined the first one, second one i stuck in the freezer for a few hours and it slipped right in
 
I just joined this club today. Snapped mine off so I guess I'll be pulling my alternator and possibly the fuel pump to get at it next weekend. I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the base of old one out with an awl. The work never ends with a 40 year old car.
 
Freezer, File, Sand, Polish and I'm still at it! What a pain in the arse! What the hell do they use in China for calipers ....... an ajustable wrench?
 
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