Distribution Block 1969 Barracuda

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1969cudarebuild

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Roy, Utah
Hello everyone. Kind of a long posting but needs to be spelled out. 26 months of my life doing this build is right down to the wire. All that is left on the car is front end alignment, headers back exhaust and figure out these darn brakes.
Here is what I have been battling. The car was a 4 wheel drum car converted to 4 wheel disk. I have been chasing no brake issues, spongy pedal for a few weeks now. The car has been converted to "stock style", mid 70's disk, single piston type on the front end and 4 piston each side Wilwoods on the rear with duel, power assist master on the firewall. Side note, I wasn't in charge of searching and buying these parts. My friend that owns the car did that. I am the one that has had to muscle through all sorts of problems, figure out how things work on this car and resolve.
Anyway. Problem is this. I have bled and bled and bled the living daylights out of this system. Even gone so far to figure the Master was bad and installed a new one. Still no resolve.
I did install an adjustable prop valve on the rear line to control bias, still no brakes.
What I did find out recently is that that Distribution block on the frame where all of the brake lines tie into it WAS a new item and designed for a drum brake set up. This has to be the culprit?
I know a lot of builders will just make lines and fittings and separate the front from the rear and use an adjustable prop valve on the rear.
QUESTION is this. Can I get away with knocking out all of the guts in the block, basically make it just a brass block where all of the lines tie into then use the adjustable prop valve on the rear over doing the separate the front from the rear?
In my mind I'm thinking that this should work because the rear is being controlled by the adjustable prop valve.
Has anyone tried doing this with a stock 4 wheel drum set up converted to 4 wheel disk? Thanks for all of your input and assistance.
 
I haven't done that to any of my cars, but, I know folks who have with success. If you have a spongy pedal or no pedal, there's air in the system, or the master cylinder is not producing the pressure.
 
Why would you want to strip everything out of the distribution block? The first thing that will do is tie the two brake circuits into one. The second thing is you'll lose your brake warning light. But back to the problem, the distribution block should not be causing the problem you are having. Look at the internal diagram in the FSM, it's just two chambers with a shuttle spool between them.
 
My reply was based on the separation of the two lines and getting rid of the block.
 
My cars are too early to have that feature.:) My foot will tell if there's something wrong with the brakes.
 
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