Distributor advice

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slx70

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I have a 69 340, X heads, stock hp exhaust manifolds. air gap performer intake manifold. 700 double pumper carb. comp cam pp284h cam 0.484 lift. 4 speed car with a 355 rear end. I have a stock mopar, I think cei distributor. It has springs that are a lavender color. does anyone have experience with these? any suggestions for springs and weights. I would like to get a total of advancement of 36 or ? Thanks.
 
slx70 said:
I have a 69 340, X heads, stock hp exhaust manifolds. air gap performer intake manifold. 700 double pumper carb. comp cam pp284h cam 0.484 lift. 4 speed car with a 355 rear end. I have a stock mopar, I think cei distributor. It has springs that are a lavender color. does anyone have experience with these? any suggestions for springs and weights. I would like to get a total of advancement of 36 or ? Thanks.
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I would get a regular 70's electronic dist & set the initial with the vacuum gauge method then shorten the slots to get 35 total ("vac gauge" initial+slots) & this is with the can capped & the $22 FBO plate is the best/fastest/easiest way to do this. then toss the heavy spring with the elongated loop on one end & sub in a mr gasket or MP light spring in its place (keep the OE light spring) for a start & mix and match for that spring & you want to stay just under the pinging point at WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest (most likely to ping) day then plug in & adj the can with a 3/32" allen wrench (CCW slows the curve) & you want to also stay under the pinging point in everyday driving under varying load (in hg) RPM conditions but the can total stays the same but it can can be modded. Another good option is mounting an HEI module under the dist. make an alum plate & use radio shack heat sink paste or www.designed2drive.com has one but it ain't cheap. this will let you run a full 12V E coil with no ballast. bottom line, any pinging you can hear is WAY too much. you want to stay close to that line but not over it. Google the "vac gauge method to set initial timing" & if that number makes the starter cranky then reduce the initial (1) degree & retry. reduce lower shaft axial play to .005 (speedway mtrs shims) & check rotor phasing & reduce rotor tip to cap terminal clearance to .015" (drill out the rivet on the rotor blade, the short tip part & bolt in another longer piece). use a brown cap with ribs underneath and BRASS terminals. keep the cap/rotor terminals clean and sharp (dremel em) as it takes less required voltage to jump from sharp terminals as it does from smooth terminals.
 
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I'm not sure what a "cei" distributor is. You mean a factory electronic, or MP conversion piece, or? What ignition box are you running?
 
Yeah, early Chrysler factory electronic. With a Mopar performance chrome ignition control unit.
 
slx70 said:
Yeah, early Chrysler factory electronic. With a Mopar performance chrome ignition control unit.
Click to expand...

I have an already modded OE Mopar electronic distributor with the performance springs, FBO limit plate and adjustable vacuum advance.
It'll drop right in and have everything you need for ignition advance tuning.
Just message me if interested.
 
With that camshaft, you are going to need a bunch of initial advance to get it running at idle properly.

Trailbeast makes up a nice mechanical advance limited piece.
 
Ok. It's a factory stock distributor, or a conversion piece? The MP units are more adjustable. But anything can be properly set up. You probably
should have advanced the cam a bit if you didn't. It would help with the need for a lot of initial timing. The best compromise spring package I've found is the stock light one and one of the mr gasket lightweight springs. Then limit the total to work with your preferred initial.
 
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