DIY Drum Brake removal tool

-
J

jhdeval

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
1,160
Reaction score
38
Location
Carrollton, GA
Okay so my drum brake is stuck and I have been looking at pullers and they are expensive as hell. I have an idea for a DIY tool.

Take a 12" piece of 1 inch steel tubing
Drill a 5/8 hole at 6"
Then measure your drum brake radius and dill a hole left and right of the center
Then you can weld a nut to the center hole and feed a piece of all thread into at the other end either weld a nut or take two nuts back to back
Then feed 2 grade 8 6" bolts into the outside holes
take 2 grade 8 washers on either side and a grade 8 nut and tighten down

using the all thread you can tighten down from the center and the washers catch on the edge of the drum brake. What are your thoughts?
 
You should be able to get the drum off without a puller.
Either the emergency brake is stuck on or the shoes have got so worn that they have carved grooves in the drum. Also the hydraulic cylinders could be rusted in the on position.
If the drum can turn then it's probably the shoes have worn groves in the drum and you should be able to back the adjusters off enough to get the drum off.
If the drum has rusted to the axles you should be able to rap them on the outside edge with a hammer in a few locations to get them free.
 
No in this case I had to change the studs and the knurled end is to long and it cut into the drum.
 
In my own experience, it's almost always the adjusters need to be backed off.
Especially if the drum moves but won't come off.

That part is REALLY fun, because you have to reach in there with something to press the automatic adjuster away from the notched adjusting wheel and back the adjuster off at the same time.

Ah, didn't see the above yet.
 
In your case looks like you needed a puller.
If it was the shoe to far out or not able to back off the adjuster,
I cut the pins.
Wack it with a BFH.
I won't fool around all day fighting with it .
Spring kits are cheap.

Hosabout a pic of your invention.
 
Anyone see any problems with it? I have not built it yet but I certainly will take pics.

kman521 I am concerned about knocking the wheel studs back in. I did this before and I was not able to reseat them afterwards. Which is why I needed to replace them.
 
jhdeval said:
Anyone see any problems with it? I have not built it yet but I certainly will take pics.

kman521 I am concerned about knocking the wheel studs back in. I did this before and I was not able to reseat them afterwards. Which is why I needed to replace them.
Click to expand...

Easy enough to solve, thread two nuts on the stud, just thread one nut down to about 3/16" from the drum to limit how far the stud gets knocked back and one nut to hit with a hammer so the stud doesn't get damaged.
 
jhdeval said:
Anyone see any problems with it? I have not built it yet but I certainly will take pics.

kman521 I am concerned about knocking the wheel studs back in. I did this before and I was not able to reseat them afterwards. Which is why I needed to replace them.
Click to expand...

if it's the car in your avatar it's because the studs are swedged in and you need to remove the swedge before you pound the studs through to the back side. it will open up the stud holes. if you don't remove the swedge before trying to remove them you'll be unable to press back in original style studs. I'm assuming your talking about the fronts (that's where they are swedged on at). I have not looked at the rear setup in a while and can't comment on those.
 
66Dvert said:
if it's the car in your avatar it's because the studs are swedged in and you need to remove the swedge before you pound the studs through to the back side. it will open up the stud holes if you don't and you'll be unable to press backm in original style studs. I'm assuming your talking about the fronts (that's where they are swedged on at). I have not looked at the rear setup in a while and can't comment on those.
Click to expand...

X2

I see this puller as a real bad idea unless you don't care what the drums are like if they do come off (bent.)

Is this front or rear and WHAT is the rear axle out of? Does this thing have the older tapered (outer nut) rear axle? If so, you need this type puller, which are expensive. Maybe you can rent one. They were used on older Mopars, Jeeps, and IHC Scouts and smaller pickups Earlier Ferds used them, too, along with Studies and some others now long gone. These bolt to the studs.

41pncBhW2gL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
Advance Auto Parts will loan you tools like this in many cases. Worth a check to see.
 
don't use a puller on the front, you need to have the swedge cut off like others have said
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top