Do all A bodies have overheating problems?

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R-RACER 43. The engine in question ,new from factory , heated continually untill I decided to change the thermostat as a first option fix. When I removed the thermostat housing there was NO thermostat. I installed the proper rated thermostat and the engine never heated again. That was all that I did. It is obvious that the coolant was circulating too fast to cool. If coolant leaving the radiator is hot the temperature will only rise through the engine and the process continues. If you can provide a more rational explanation , others and myself would like to hear it. My previous post was not just an old wives tail. Due to the reduced size of the orifice in the thermostat it will naturally reduce the flow even when opened fully.
Yote
Ok...that's exactly what I expected, but the reason it fixed it, was due to putting a restriction in the flow path, that creates higher water pressure in the block, which reduces hot spots, and steam pockets, it has nothing to do with the flow RATE, it has to do with PRESSURE in the block....
 
Even at idle you should be able to suck a rag to the front of the radiator if it doesn't you need to figure out what it will take to draw more air thru it. If your top hose was 221 and bottom was 220 you are not cooing the water at all.
 
Even at idle you should be able to suck a rag to the front of the radiator if it doesn't you need to figure out what it will take to draw more air thru it. If your top hose was 221 and bottom was 220 you are not cooing the water at all.
Per post #33, it was 221/210
Never-the-less 11 degrees says it all.
My 1973 26" A/C rad manages a bit over 30 degrees. And it cools very well.
ir3333 in post #33 stated to expect 45/50* "delta-T"
 
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I've never had a problem with over heating in my setup. 340 with 727. Four blade mechanical fan with shroud.

If anything. It takes quite a while to heat up. But even in 30C+ weather sitting for a few minutes. It never gets too hot. I'm going to put thermal clutch on the fan and I'm not worried about it at all.
 
R-racer43,
Did some research and found your views somewhat valid. Also found information from CalTech giving my view some support. Possibly both viewpoints share some validity. Thanks.
Yote
 
R-racer43,
Did some research and found your views somewhat valid. Also found information from CalTech giving my view some support. Possibly both viewpoints share some validity. Thanks.
Yote
Cool....your probably right...and I apologize for my tone earlier, I came across way more harsh than I intended!
 
I believe the for fan to work optimumly it should be 1/2 in the way in the shroud and 1/2 out of the shroud, or close to it. All the way in is not going to get you where you want to be.
 
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One other thing to mention, are you running a stock crank pulley? The larger the diameter the better cooling. I had a smaller march pulley on my 70 duster and it overheated. Once I swapped it out for a larger one, and left everything else the same, it cools much better. Haven't gone over 200 yet.
 
Doesn't that car take a 22" radiator maximum? I've never had one that old with a V8, but every later-model with a V8 and 26" radiator has never suffered heating problems at idle. I use the same type 5-blade clutch fan and factory shroud on each.

You may want to look at the water pump pulley. There are different diameters that fit, so if it has a large pulley, that slows the water flow through the radiator and if it's a small pulley, it speeds it up. What happens if you rev the engine at idle to get the water flowing faster and air moving? Does it start to cool down, or at least stop climbing or does it keep going?

The fan I use is a 5-blade type from a 5th avenue or a truck combined with a thermostatic clutch. The thing about fans that's important is the PITCH, which is how deep the blades are angled and ultimately how much air they move. The clutch fans are deeply pitched, which means they move a lot of air when the clutch locks and they are noisy. Most guys disliek that but you can't have cake and eat it too. Noisy fans move air, quiet ones probably don't.

Mopar used fixed fans and flex fans also. Both have disadvantages. The fixed fan runs all the time and is noisy all the time but they move air alright. Is this a MOPAR 6-blade fixed fan? I've never seen one other than 4-blade versions. They can also do damage to fingers and to everything in close proximity if they fail from overevving.

The flex fans also are at a disadvantage because they FLEX. When you rev the engine, the pitch of the blades flattens out and guess what...stops moving air. The idea was that they would move air at idle, then they would defer to the ram effect of air at higher speeds. Mopar went straight to clutch fans on anything larger than a 318 that had AC in later years. Good luck with it.
 
I can't believe people still repeat the false wives tale of water circulating to fast to cool..... it's utter bs.... your issue is fan/shroud and possibly radiator
I don`t agree w/ u on that statement. try taking the thermostat completely out and see. I had an approx. 600 horse 406 sbc, it would run hot w/o one. I made some of the washer type inserts to replace the stat, after experimenting w/ diff size holes in it , I wound up w/ (if I remember right), a 5/8 hole in it. Any bigger "more flow" it would heat up, any smaller (less flow), it would heat up. You are wrong on this one.
 
I believe the for fan to work optimumly it should be 1/2 in the way in the shroud and 1/2 out of the shroud, or close to it. All the way in is not going to get you where you want to be.

Yes, the depth of the fan in the shroud makes a difference...
 
I don`t agree w/ u on that statement. try taking the thermostat completely out and see. I had an approx. 600 horse 406 sbc, it would run hot w/o one. I made some of the washer type inserts to replace the stat, after experimenting w/ diff size holes in it , I wound up w/ (if I remember right), a 5/8 hole in it. Any bigger "more flow" it would heat up, any smaller (less flow), it would heat up. You are wrong on this one.
I've already explained WHY that happens, and it's not the speed of the water flow, it's the pressure increase in the block due to a restriction, just because you don't understand the physics of it, doesn't make me wrong.
 
I will say this, couple decades ago, back WHEN getting a hold of any STOCK BB or SB, with the correct OEM pullies, fan, shroud, decent CORRECT rad. out of say how many doz. of these cars I had , never had an overheat problem. yes 440 always ran hotter than others seemed to me.

with a good rad, correct size pullies, and right thermostat, correct fan ( that eliminates a flex fan immediately), be it fixed or not, sitting in a correct shrould, and engine that antifreeze can circulate thru, AC water pump? maybe, I can't see why anyone has overheat problems??? maybe am a dinaseaur? ( can't spell chit?) ( no doubt).

so what does that say? I agree we can build a "hotter" engine that can add overheat problems somewhat, but also look at the rad. now available people all use. and why add these stupid electric fans???????????? for a street car???
 
I've already explained WHY that happens, and it's not the speed of the water flow, it's the pressure increase in the block due to a restriction, just because you don't understand the physics of it, doesn't make me wrong.

can't remember where I fold the "how to" list, but I did a receipe for cleaning out the water passages in a slant that was running hotter than I thought it should, used muratic acid. it worked . I have to agree with the above notion of replicaracer 43, ...... something to consider...
 
A proper assembled Sb A body or any other car should not overheat. If it does something is assembled wrong, or something is def. AND lots of cars did not come from the factory with a fan shroud.
 
Doesn't that car take a 22" radiator maximum? I've never had one that old with a V8, but every later-model with a V8 and 26" radiator has never suffered heating problems at idle. I use the same type 5-blade clutch fan and factory shroud on each.

You may want to look at the water pump pulley. There are different diameters that fit, so if it has a large pulley, that slows the water flow through the radiator and if it's a small pulley, it speeds it up. What happens if you rev the engine at idle to get the water flowing faster and air moving? Does it start to cool down, or at least stop climbing or does it keep going?

The fan I use is a 5-blade type from a 5th avenue or a truck combined with a thermostatic clutch. The thing about fans that's important is the PITCH, which is how deep the blades are angled and ultimately how much air they move. The clutch fans are deeply pitched, which means they move a lot of air when the clutch locks and they are noisy. Most guys disliek that but you can't have cake and eat it too. Noisy fans move air, quiet ones probably don't.

Mopar used fixed fans and flex fans also. Both have disadvantages. The fixed fan runs all the time and is noisy all the time but they move air alright. Is this a MOPAR 6-blade fixed fan? I've never seen one other than 4-blade versions. They can also do damage to fingers and to everything in close proximity if they fail from overevving.

The flex fans also are at a disadvantage because they FLEX. When you rev the engine, the pitch of the blades flattens out and guess what...stops moving air. The idea was that they would move air at idle, then they would defer to the ram effect of air at higher speeds. Mopar went straight to clutch fans on anything larger than a 318 that had AC in later years. Good luck with it.

Finally found the time to work on it a little.
Haven't had any luck finding a 7 blade fan, but that is something I want to try.
I re-installed the Milidon thermostat ( 180 degree ).
I've previously experimented with a 6 blade steel fan ( Jegs ), and a Mopar performance thermostatic 5 blade clutch fan. Didn't really see much difference between the two.
I did notice that the Mopar fan blade was 2 inches or so from the radiator, and the blades were extended out of the shroud more than I think they should be. So I installed a 1 inch spacer to get the fan blade closer. It is 1 inch now from the radiator, and it appears to be about halfway in/out of the shroud. My test, at idle, with newspaper across the grill with the hood closed shows significantly more amount of pull through the grill. So we'll see if that helps.
Someone posted about the radiator to hood seal. Mine does not have one, so it has been ordered. Larry
 
Finally found the time to work on it a little.
Haven't had any luck finding a 7 blade fan, but that is something I want to try.
I re-installed the Milidon thermostat ( 180 degree ).
I've previously experimented with a 6 blade steel fan ( Jegs ), and a Mopar performance thermostatic 5 blade clutch fan. Didn't really see much difference between the two.
I did notice that the Mopar fan blade was 2 inches or so from the radiator, and the blades were extended out of the shroud more than I think they should be. So I installed a 1 inch spacer to get the fan blade closer. It is 1 inch now from the radiator, and it appears to be about halfway in/out of the shroud. My test, at idle, with newspaper across the grill with the hood closed shows significantly more amount of pull through the grill. So we'll see if that helps.
Someone posted about the radiator to hood seal. Mine does not have one, so it has been ordered. Larry
I have an aluminum 7 blade mopar fan clutch type, no clutch. 30 dollars plus shipping if you want it. Good shape. Not bent.
 
I just drove my car in the heat yesterday. Never went over 175. Someone said to speed up the water pump. I agree. The WP needs to be no slower than 1:1. I drive mine 6% over crank speed and if I could have found pullies I would have went faster yet.
 
I say when it comes to cooling, " the devil is in the d etails"?? add up all these small factors and the sm of which is what makes it cool!! ??

and.... there are repops of OEM pullies, also, aftermarket sizes, and like the guy above, MoparTim, finding a vender with OEM 7 blade fans should not be hard. the hood to shroud is said to be very important, and an item often missing, some cars had a seal at top edge of underside of hood too didn't they?

I am always amazed at the u nmber of members on here that seem to have cooling issues.
 
I say when it comes to cooling, " the devil is in the d etails"?? add up all these small factors and the sm of which is what makes it cool!! ??

and.... there are repops of OEM pullies, also, aftermarket sizes, and like the guy above, MoparTim, finding a vender with OEM 7 blade fans should not be hard. the hood to shroud is said to be very important, and an item often missing, some cars had a seal at top edge of underside of hood too didn't they?

I am always amazed at the u nmber of members on here that seem to have cooling issues.

The 7 blade fan blades I had found for thermostatic clutch assemblies were too big for my shroud. This is a 22 inch radiator, so the opening in the shroud is less than 20 inch.
The 7 blade fixed fans I found so far were on E-bay, and I missed out on those.
The title of this thread, Do all A-bodies overheat, was meant to be somewhat tongue-in-cheek. As stated before, this car came from the factory with a 22 inch radiator, no shroud, and a 4 blade fixed fan. It was a smaller engine, 2 bbl carb and single exhaust. But I'd like to believe that this car did not have overheating problems when new. That's why I was asking for ideas.
 
When I bought my '72 Scamp, I installed all of the factory A/C parts. Radiator, shroud, fan, spacer and hood mounted seal to radiator core support. Also a 50/50 coolant mix with a 180 degree stat. No cooling issues. However, it is a stock 225 slant, but, I had all the parts on hand from an a/c parts car, so I put them in.
 
Just drove my junker all over town today in 90* heat. Even in traffic the temp gauge never went past 180*.
 
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