Do I need bigger torsion bars?

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BlueDream

BlueDream

Aspiring Mopar enthusiast
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Swapping up from a slant 6 to a 318 in my Dart. I've heard that I need new torsion bars and I've also heard I don't. The car will just be street driven, not seeing any strip time. What do I really need? This is how the car sits with the /6.
 
I think what Tod is getting at above is that you won't be happy with the handling with smaller bars, and I'd agree. I'd get heavier bars and front sway bar at the minimum, and consider some aftermarket hi perf bars. This changes the handling of these old girls markedly
 
Todlich said:
If you are not worried about strip duty(weight transfer) I would upgrade the Tbars to something a bit more stiff for a more street friendly driver.IMHO

I would check out these threads going on now to help you out.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=273492


cheap T-bars on the sales forum
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=261065


ps: good looking dart btw :)
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Would I be able to drive it for a while until I can put the bigger bars in or would it not be streetable? And I'm glad you like it. I've had it since I was 9 and I've been restoring it for the past few years :glasses7:
 
BlueDream said:
Would I be able to drive it for a while until I can put the bigger bars in or would it not be streetable? And I'm glad you like it. I've had it since I was 9 and I've been restoring it for the past few years :glasses7:
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You would definitely be able to drive it in the mean time.......just would'nt go around to many corners at a quick pace.unless you like to shave your door handles off from the body lean :p

As 67dart273 said,stiff(larger diameter Tbars) would make it handle better,as well as getting some swaybars would go along ways to enjoying driving her 'round town.
 
The ride height is irrelevant because you set that with the torsion bar adjustment screws.

The slant 6 cars used a lower spring rate torsion bar than the v-8 cars. The slant 6 bars will allow more body roll, but are desired for quarter mile racing because of the weight transfer is better for racing. If you are not going to race it, then you may want to consider changing the bars.

You then have to ask, "how important is handling to me?"

If you want it to handle better, then you may want to consider upgrading the torsion bars when you have the time and money. They had different torsion bars for the different v-8 engines and performance packages through the years. Those will handle better than the stock slant 6 torsion bars. However, since torsion bars are basically springs, they do fatigue and will eventually get weaker and sag and eventually break. I would recommend if you are going to replace them, to buy new ones and consider upgrading to 1.00" or 1.030" bars for better handling.

If you want to really handle better, add front and rear torsion bars.

It is how much you want to do...
 
My two cents:

In both my 66' Barracuda with the slant6 and the 72 Dodge Demon 340 4 speed (approx. same weight as the 318 you have) I installed the Mopar Super stock springs AND the 383 torsion bars for drivability and control. I love the feel of hitting a corner and bumps and the car almost never bottoms out. Let's face it, roll control starts with a suspension that cant handle its own weight. Do they ride rougher or stiffer? No they feel right. Before with the orginal bars they were over 40 years old and rode (please pardon the term) "loose" and lack luster. I realize that it is a few hundred bucks for front and then the same for rears but when you can afford it, a suspension upgrade is a good thing. Sway bars on an old set of springs is nice but is working way harder to maintain control when the springs cant handle the load.

Also the car looks great from the photo! Best of luck with your quest for a great car!
Joe
 
BlueDream said:
Would I be able to drive it for a while until I can put the bigger bars in or would it not be streetable? And I'm glad you like it. I've had it since I was 9 and I've been restoring it for the past few years :glasses7:
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Sure you can drive it as is for awhile with /6 bars and maybe forever. Lots of cars used to drive around with light bars on the street to get weight transfer on launch. Just don't get too aggressive right from the get go until you see how it handles and what its limitations are.

Chrysler used to have a standard /6 T-bar.
But I've read from reliable sources that if a /6 car came equipped with A/C then it usually was upgraded to the base V-8 sized T-bar to handle the increased front end weight. So being down south, where A/C cars were more common, you may have a heavier bar than you think. Possibly the standard 318 or 273 bar.

Easiest way to figure out exactly what you have is measure the diameter of the bar with a micrometer or calipers. (heavy paint, if present, will affect the reading) Or look at the end of the bar at the crossmember directly under the seat area. See if you can read the 3 digit number stamped on the flat of the hex end. By the way, there is a different number for right and left. The 3 digits are the last 3 numbers of the part number for that T-bar.

Either way, then it's easy to figure out what you presently have by looking for charts here and elsewhere and you can go from there.
 
Yes. Factory spring weights were 'cloud soft'. Make it get around a corner or two. :D
 
Not to hijack this thread, but it may be relevant - what about leaving the /6 torsion bars and adding a sway bar?
 
DJC said:
Not to hijack this thread, but it may be relevant - what about leaving the /6 torsion bars and adding a sway bar?
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I've done both ways, IMO the sway and and bigger bars are where it's at. Still floats like a boat.
 
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