There are many dry sumps out there. Seems ideal for most.That's entirely possible. I think the last thing you need is an empty pan. Speaking of that, I wonder if a dry sump system would be any benefit?
There are many dry sumps out there. Seems ideal for most.That's entirely possible. I think the last thing you need is an empty pan. Speaking of that, I wonder if a dry sump system would be any benefit?
If we could go back in time...For giggles, I researched what my lifters now cost.
$1611 dollars at summit !?! I guarantee I did NOT pay anywhere near that for mine!
Heck, I think I paid around $200 for the Herbert (chinese?) solid roller lifters in my small block. No complaints about them either (it was more than a few years ago, tho)
I was advised to stay away from the needle bearings and stay with bushed rollers for Bonneville. I like the DLC versus bronze, but then what to do about oiling when bushed instead.I have ran Comp Cams 829-16 lifters for years with no restriction on the street for over 35 years. I have also only ever bushed the bores on two race engines.
There is no need for restrictors and if you just won't to do something bushing the lifter bores is where to spend the money.
Tom
Your thoughts with needle bearings rollers at Bonneville??Comp Cams 829-16 $594.86, get a 10% off coupon and you'll be rolling.
https://www.compcams.com/endure-x-s...-440-426-hemi-904-dia-centered-set-of-16.html
Tom
The picture with that listing shows an oil band. But it does say the picture is only "representative" of the lifters, and it does say in the part description that it does NOT have an oil band.Comp Cams 829-16 $594.86, get a 10% off coupon and you'll be rolling.
https://www.compcams.com/endure-x-s...-440-426-hemi-904-dia-centered-set-of-16.html
Tom
The picture with that listing shows an oil band. But it does say the picture is only "representative" of the lifters, and it does say in the part description that it does NOT have an oil band.
Needle bearings means more moving parts. My philosophy with all machinery that I work with or build with is to reduce the numbers of moving parts as much as possible. That is smart engineering. Only add them when there is no other option. Every moving part is an additional potential point of failure. With the bushings, bronze, or DLC steel, your bearing is the oil.I personally don't think needle roller bearings are a problem so long as you have positive oil pressure, and have the valve train in the correct geometry.
A lot of needle bearing failures are the result of poor preparations such as incorrect valve spring pressure, poor oiling, and bad geometry.
If there is a way to screw something up there will always be a few that can ruin it for everyone.
Tom
my dart was driven on the street , mine were Comp's. if I did it again now, I might try and find a bushed roller instead of the needle bearing style.Are either of you using those in street cars? What brands are they?
Those are baby spring pressures for race engines.250-275/600-650lb
What does the crew chief recommend?Those are baby spring pressures for race engines.
Lol whatever the cam manufacturer recommends. I’m not smarter than the cam grinder. I was just saying it should be no problem to keep a lifter alive under those spring pressures. That cam has lobes that are not part killers. I would however make sure the manufacturer knows how I plan to use it and the rpm (sustained) that I plan to run with it. They might add a little seat pressure to the recommendation with that knowledge.What does the crew chief recommend?