Do you agree with this Hot Rod magazine online article quote?

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Cudafever said:
Just did a quick search, for my own thoughts with my block.
They still make a replacement block,
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(MOPAR 340 REPLACEMENT ENGINE BLOCK - NON-SIAMESE)
on sale now for $2995.00
Sleeving all 8 cylinders around $688....... That leave you (Me) with $2307.00 dollar worth of machine work, of the old block, before it would equal the price of a new block. that price don't include shipping for that heavy iron either!!!!!!!
For the original post/hot rod article, cheaper to fix one cyl,($87esh dollars) then to buy another 318 and then have it ALL re machined again.
Click to expand...


Order that block up and see what happens first...someone sleeving your block, or that block showing up.

If your block is already .060 over, there is no way I'd set one sleeve in it. It will distort the bores around it enough that it will probably take .005-.006 to fix it.
 
From what I hear you are not going to get any aftermarket small block except a Ritter block.
 
Cudafever said:
Just did a quick search, for my own thoughts with my block.
They still make a replacement block,
rnddot.gif

rnddot.gif

(MOPAR 340 REPLACEMENT ENGINE BLOCK - NON-SIAMESE)
on sale now for $2995.00
Sleeving all 8 cylinders around $688....... That leave you (Me) with $2307.00 dollar worth of machine work, of the old block, before it would equal the price of a new block. that price don't include shipping for that heavy iron either!!!!!!!
For the original post/hot rod article, cheaper to fix one cyl,($87esh dollars) then to buy another 318 and then have it ALL re machined again.
Click to expand...
don`t know about now, but there used to be a bunch of superstock racers running fully sleeved blocks. they were making more power than w/o them. we sleeved a couple of holes in the hemi w/ 460 ford sleeves, (due to wrist pins getting loose), the 460 ford sleeves were supposed to be the best mat`l going at that time.
 
yellow rose said:
Order that block up and see what happens first...someone sleeving your block, or that block showing up.

If your block is already .060 over, there is no way I'd set one sleeve in it. It will distort the bores around it enough that it will probably take .005-.006 to fix it.
Click to expand...

Yup that's the point, 8 sleeves make it a standard bore again and even if i had lifter bores that were trashed and needed sleeves as well.......I still would be less than a new block
 
D-50394 said:
From what I hear you are not going to get any aftermarket small block except a Ritter block.
Click to expand...
The ritter is cool......But i don't get it. If you're going to start out with such a block, that's going to cost you tons of money in special parts.........why not just start out with a hemi!
 
I wanted to do that on a 383 in 1986, because I really, really liked the idea of steel walls instead of cast, and to keep my original slugs. But I got talked out of it and went .020 over. I still have the original pistons so I could do this if I need to in the future.
 
as far as i know these sleeves are cast iron also, not steel. They are cast centrifugally, and that makes them more constant regarding wall thickness. Steel also would not be a good friction partner for the pistons.

Michael
 
Yes I could sell the Hemi and build me a bad a.. small block and have money left.
 
D-50394 said:
Yes I could sell the Hemi and build me a bad a.. small block and have money left.
Click to expand...
Not me, i have a real heavy car (3760 pounds)It would live real happy there. Probably be the only way someone would convince me to go biggy block! I had a chance to buy a blown alk motor pan to hat for 10 grand.........didn't have the $$$$$ or the powertrain to handle it.:steering::)
 
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