DOCTOR DIFF REAR AXLES

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you must mean tapered bearing vs green as Timken is a brand name . there both good there are lots of greens on the street and road racing . if going green go with the newer style with them you wont need to remove the thrust buttons in your sure grip . the older style has the retainer plates crimped to the bearing the newer ones are full floater . I run both types tapered in one car and new style greens in another they both have been problem free . but the factory tapered set up is damn near bullet proof . the greens are faster and cleaner if you change center sections often .
 
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superbirdrag said:
whats the story with green bearing vs timkin bearings . I hear green are for straight line performance and cant take highway driving . Timkin are the choice for a driver car ..................???
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do a search there are tons of threads on it. tons of misinformation about them in all the threads including this one down the road after this question. :)
 
DoctorDiff said:
I never sold you Dutchman axles. Years ago, you bought a $295 pair of off-the-shelf YUKON axles I used to carry BEFORE I had my own line of off-the-shelf 8.75" axles.

I also sell custom made DUTCHMAN axles because I prefer the quality AND price over Moser.
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I am not sure the OPs question was answered in this thread.

To rephrase the question.

If I have a 500+ Hp 4sp that will be raced on occasion running drag radials which axles would you recommend?

8 3/4 braced.... and using a clutch tamer.

Thanks
 
Since you are in Boise I say save money on shipping by walking on over to Dutchman, as they are close to you in Meridian :)

I've ordered hundreds of sets of custom axles myself over the last 25 years, always been happy with Dutchman's product. My Shop Mule car has a set of 20 year old Dutchman 28 spline axles in a 8.5 10 bolt Chevy rear, full face iron/2800lb diaphragm controlled by a ClutchTamer. Super aggressive clutch without the ClutchTamer, but with it in place the 28 spl Dutchman axles are still going strong. Dead hooking radials with well over 700whp now, the car was running 5.73 w/ 1.30 60's on radials and that same set of axles as far back as 2011.

edit- Those same axles were in place when I removed the ClutchTamer for a with/without test several years ago, this was the result...

twistedshaft.jpg


Grant
 
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Huh ? I had no idea Dutchman was here in Boise.

I am still scratching my head about exactley how to install and set up this Clutchtamer....I am too stupid to visualize it I guess...lol
 
Dutchman used to be in Portland, but moved to Meridian several years ago.

I find it easiest to mock up a ClutchTamer install using small clamps to hold things in place, that allows you to check travel/geometry/interference without drilling any holes. Sometimes I form a plate that bolts to existing holes on the bottom lip of the dash, having that intermediate plate in place can make it possible to install where you want without drilling any new holes. Not sure what dash bracket you might have, but I now make a more visually pleasing "musclecar" version that makes the install look more like a vent knob...

clutchtamermusclecar1.jpg


Grant
 
I must admit I havent spent a lot of time on it yet... Just assembling engine right now .
I have mocked it up breifly but got squirreled with other aspects of the build.
 
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