Doing Bodywork on my own car need some assistance. Please

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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We are using the original paint as a base. We had taken the car to get work done on it and the guy took a majority of the dents out and spot primered where he worked. He did not sand the rest of the car. I want to know what sand paper I should start with before I start messing with filler if I do? And if I do what grits do I use to sand the filler with before the car is ready for a coat of epoxy primer to seal the old paint and filler in?

2. Do I sand the epoxy before I spray the 2k high build (If so what grits?)? Or just spray and start blocking the 2k?

3. What grit do I block the 2k with?

and then after blocking the 2k it's sealer and then paint correct?:prayer::prayer:
 
DA the old paint with 180. Do your body work over 80 grit. You can shape the filler with 8o then finish it with one 80. You can also do your filler over epoxy.

The epoxy usually needs to be topped with 2K with in 72hrs, The tech sheet will tell you how long you have. After that you have to scuff it to top coat it.

For the 2K I do my blocking with 180, usually 2 rounds to make sure its straight. So 180, then re-prime. Then I go 180 again but leave enough material to go over it with 220 if I can. If not re-prime and block with 220. Primer should fill the 220 scratches.

Then re-prime and wet sand with 400, then 600. Remember to use a guide coat each time to sand.
 
Very concise info, Adam.
 
AdamR said:
DA the old paint with 180. Do your body work over 80 grit. You can shape the filler with 8o then finish it with one 80. You can also do your filler over epoxy.

The epoxy usually needs to be topped with 2K with in 72hrs, The tech sheet will tell you how long you have. After that you have to scuff it to top coat it.

For the 2K I do my blocking with 180, usually 2 rounds to make sure its straight. So 180, then re-prime. Then I go 180 again but leave enough material to go over it with 220 if I can. If not re-prime and block with 220. Primer should fill the 220 scratches.

Then re-prime and wet sand with 400, then 600. Remember to use a guide coat each time to sand.
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Exactly what I needed. Thanks again Adam. I have my cousin and Dustya_383 helping me. They both took the same auto body class, so this should be a fun experience.

Only question I have is for this statement "Then re-prime and wet sand with 400, then 600. Remember to use a guide coat each time to sand" The guide coat is for the wet sanding part or for the blocking with the 2k?
 
Here is what I am working with now
 

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and the last ones
 

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guide coat when ever you are blocking. I even use it when I am blocking out primer
 
AdamR said:
DA the old paint with 180. Do your body work over 80 grit. You can shape the filler with 8o then finish it with one 80. You can also do your filler over epoxy.

The epoxy usually needs to be topped with 2K with in 72hrs, The tech sheet will tell you how long you have. After that you have to scuff it to top coat it.

For the 2K I do my blocking with 180, usually 2 rounds to make sure its straight. So 180, then re-prime. Then I go 180 again but leave enough material to go over it with 220 if I can. If not re-prime and block with 220. Primer should fill the 220 scratches.

Then re-prime and wet sand with 400, then 600. Remember to use a guide coat each time to sand.
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Ok Adam I have been thinking about this since you posted it. The step that I am confused over is "do your body work over 80 grit." So after I DA with 180, I spray with epoxy then do the filler over the epoxy and shape it with 80. Then I go over the filler with 180. After that is done I spray the car with 2k and this is when I start to block the car just like you stated for what you do with your 2k, blocking it with 180 for 2 rounds correct?
 
Correct. What I mean with do your body work over 80 grit, after you spray you epoxy any spot you need to do filler work DA with some 8p0 grit first so there's some tooth for the filler to grab on to. The most important thing to do though is read the instruction on the cans and tech sheets.
 
AdamR said:
Correct. What I mean with do your body work over 80 grit, after you spray you epoxy any spot you need to do filler work DA with some 8p0 grit first so there's some tooth for the filler to grab on to. The most important thing to do though is read the instruction on the cans and tech sheets.
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Thanks ADAM. We are having a real issue with finding someone to do the work. I like the idea of doing my own work, so I am looking at cheap guns to spray the epoxy on with. I have read some reviews of the HF guns. They are cheap and this is just to spray the epoxy on. What size tip would you use? They have a real nice HVLP gun, but it comes with a 1.4 tip. We have a 30 gallon compressor 2hp 135psi max that we could use. I know its not ideal, but I am fine with doing panel by panel so that it doesn't run out of air. What do you think of this idea?
 
If you go for the Harbor Freight HVLP gun, get the more expensive one (66222) and not the cheaper 47016. Sometimes the 66222 goes on sale for $20, which is when I got mine. Also, even though it says 1.4 tip on the site, when I was in the store, some had 1.4 others had I think it was 1.6. It's my cheapest gun, but I like it for the price, it seems decent enough.
 
72Dodge said:
If you go for the Harbor Freight HVLP gun, get the more expensive one (66222) and not the cheaper 47016. Sometimes the 66222 goes on sale for $20, which is when I got mine. Also, even though it says 1.4 tip on the site, when I was in the store, some had 1.4 others had I think it was 1.6. It's my cheapest gun, but I like it for the price, it seems decent enough.
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Okay thanks! How did you like it? I just want it to shoot epoxy primer and 2k primer. Also can you get a bigger tip for it or no? What psi was good for you with this gun?
 
My 1.4 sprayed epoxy fine. I don't think I'd try a 1.4 with a build primer. There was a number in the manual to call "for spare parts", but I didn't call it or try to get a different tip. I have another gun with a bigger tip anyway. The last time I used it was earlier last summer, but if I were to guess, I'd say I used it with 90 out of the tank and probably about 35-40 at the gun, but I could be remembering wrong. You'd just have to try it and adjust for your material.

As with any HF tools, I suggest inspecting in the store when possible before purchasing. I have come away with some missing parts sometimes when I haven't. I still have a bolt stuck in the crank of the engine stand I bought there because it was missing the pin when I got it home!
 
72Dodge said:
My 1.4 sprayed epoxy fine. I don't think I'd try a 1.4 with a build primer. There was a number in the manual to call "for spare parts", but I didn't call it or try to get a different tip. I have another gun with a bigger tip anyway. The last time I used it was earlier last summer, but if I were to guess, I'd say I used it with 90 out of the tank and probably about 35-40 at the gun, but I could be remembering wrong. You'd just have to try it and adjust for your material.

As with any HF tools, I suggest inspecting in the store when possible before purchasing. I have come away with some missing parts sometimes when I haven't. I still have a bolt stuck in the crank of the engine stand I bought there because it was missing the pin when I got it home!
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I will do all you suggested thank you. I will look for another gun to shoot the 2k and sealer.
 
AdamR said:
Look for a gun with a 1.8 tip for primer.
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Yea I found one. I just need to get some inline filters for it. Anything else you suggest for when spraying primer/ epoxy? Gun wise besides mask?
 
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