Door weatherstrip/windcord????

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60jerry

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I've got my'66 Dart GT hardtop in pretty good shape, but I've had difficulty with the new door weather strips. I got new ones from one of the main suppliers, but I purchased parts from so many that I don't remember which one this product came from. No, I didn't keep the receipts, but I will from now on.

Anyhow, I installed the new strips after paint in about May, '13. As expected, the doors were a real problem to shut with new seals, but I left them shut tightly except when opening to get inside. Well, it's now October and the doors are still a pain to close completely. I have to slam the doors unforgivably hard to get them to latch properly.

When latched, the fit is correct and the gaps are great. Just seems too much rubber is in the way, but durned if I can figger out why. Slowly closing the doors shows that the seals get tighter when the door is close to the latches.

Is there something I don't understand here? There seems to be only one way to install these things. Is there a supplier that uses smaller or thinner rubber seal portions of the set-up.

I'm kinda worried that slamming could cause some quarter panel issues if it continues.

Jerry in Denver
 
I used as much soft seal product In the 71 Demon that I could get and the doors shut better than new, and no slamming. I believe the rest of the missing parts came from dantes, both worked together and as I said the doors shut better than new!!
Got to work on some trunk rubber trim.
 
Keith Mopar said:
I used as much soft seal product In the 71 Demon that I could get and the doors shut better than new, and no slamming. I believe the rest of the missing parts came from dantes, both worked together and as I said the doors shut better than new!!
Got to work on some trunk rubber trim.
Click to expand...

my problem is w/ new quarter window seals, can`t get enough in- at the top of the door window. any suggestions?===bob:coffee2:
 
It helps a little to take the stripping off, and use visegrips to bend the pinched together metal backward, into the inside of the car, maybe a quarter inch. The stuff is still too thick, but I don't have to heave my hip against the doors to make a good seal.
 
Longroof,

Seems you've thought of the same thing I've been contemplating. When I slowly close the door and watch what is getting tight, it appears that it gets really tight on the rear-most part of the door--the vertical part--and I've been thinking about bending the pinch-weld inboard. Guess I know what tomorrow will hold for me.

Thanks for the response. This will help verify my thoughts.

Jerry in Denver
 
60jerry said:
Longroof,

Seems you've thought of the same thing I've been contemplating. When I slowly close the door and watch what is getting tight, it appears that it gets really tight on the rear-most part of the door--the vertical part--and I've been thinking about bending the pinch-weld inboard. Guess I know what tomorrow will hold for me.

Thanks for the response. This will help verify my thoughts.

Jerry in Denver
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I used the generic windlace that was .5 inches (just little bit larger than the stock stuff you buy for reproduction stuff,and the car isn't stock) @ 2.00 a foot (10ft per door for my convertible and about the same for a hardtop) is/was a no brainer. vs the 100+ repro stuff. I had the doors aligned perfectly without the windlace and as soon as I added it my door stood proud of the quarter by almost 1/4 inch. after adjusting the striker it closed better but still had a gap. that was 3 months ago. the doors have been opened and shut to get into and work on the car and I finally noticed that the door was almost flush with the quarter again. I still have to slam it closed but it's getting easier and easier as time goes by. (mine actually was tight in the front lower corner and the rear lower corner so it wanted to kick out the whole bottom of the door and if I adjusted it in to compensate the windows,well lets just say they'd really catch some water easy. they ended up about 3/8th away from the top seal.
 
AussiePlymouths,

Well, hmmmm. I took some vise-grips to the pinch welds on both doors. I moved them inboard about a quarter-inch along the rear vertical. At the very top, where the pinch weld is just a bit wider and very near the inside garnish panel, it didn't want to bend in quite as far, but I bent it in as much as I thought I could get away with.

Re-installing the weatherstrip/windlace, it will not go onto the pinch weld all the way, leaving a portion of the pinch weld visible. The windlace is in contact with the rear door/quarter panel trim (the big one that covers the area below the quarter glass).

The doors close a bit more easily, but still need quite a bit of inertia in order to latch completely. Perhaps the seal is tight somewhere forward, but when I slowly close the door, it seems still tight in the rear. Maybe all the tightness from the forward part is just adding up while I move the door toward latching. I dunno.

I worry about work-hardening the quarter panel sheet metal. When I have to slam the door, the quarter panel area just behind the door moves quite a bit. The structural integrity of the car is not in question since it is a very tight rust-free car.

Also, since the area behind the door moves a lot, my mind is telling me that the rear part of the door seal is too thick--or maybe the thing is too thick all around.

66Dvert,

I'm wondering where you obtained the generic windlace. Does it have the rubber seal attached?

My doors were in perfect alignment prior to installing the weatherstrip/windlace combo and still in alignment when the doors are slammed shut and properly sealed. Just tight as a (fill in whatever ya want). Every time I get into the car to drive it, I have to readjust the outside mirror 'cause slamming the door moves it out of position--the door mirror is new and tight, but is still overcome by the slam. When opening the door, it really pops out when the latch is released--way too tight.

Where'd ya get the different weatherstrip???

Oh yea, another thing I tried. I took a heat gun to the rear vertical part of the weatherstrip rubber and made it warm enough that I got a little bit of hot rubber fragrance and then slammed the doors shut. Left 'em over night. Didn't do squat--still tight.

Jerry in Denver
 
I have seen vent holes in the bulb of the weather strip. They serve to release trapped air, as seal is compressed. Typically they are underneath, on one side and are perhaps 1/8" in diameter a few inches apart.
 
60jerry said:
AussiePlymouths,

Well, hmmmm. I took some vise-grips to the pinch welds on both doors. I moved them inboard about a quarter-inch along the rear vertical. At the very top, where the pinch weld is just a bit wider and very near the inside garnish panel, it didn't want to bend in quite as far, but I bent it in as much as I thought I could get away with.

Re-installing the weatherstrip/windlace, it will not go onto the pinch weld all the way, leaving a portion of the pinch weld visible. The windlace is in contact with the rear door/quarter panel trim (the big one that covers the area below the quarter glass).

The doors close a bit more easily, but still need quite a bit of inertia in order to latch completely. Perhaps the seal is tight somewhere forward, but when I slowly close the door, it seems still tight in the rear. Maybe all the tightness from the forward part is just adding up while I move the door toward latching. I dunno.

I worry about work-hardening the quarter panel sheet metal. When I have to slam the door, the quarter panel area just behind the door moves quite a bit. The structural integrity of the car is not in question since it is a very tight rust-free car.

Also, since the area behind the door moves a lot, my mind is telling me that the rear part of the door seal is too thick--or maybe the thing is too thick all around.

66Dvert,

I'm wondering where you obtained the generic windlace. Does it have the rubber seal attached?

My doors were in perfect alignment prior to installing the weatherstrip/windlace combo and still in alignment when the doors are slammed shut and properly sealed. Just tight as a (fill in whatever ya want). Every time I get into the car to drive it, I have to readjust the outside mirror 'cause slamming the door moves it out of position--the door mirror is new and tight, but is still overcome by the slam. When opening the door, it really pops out when the latch is released--way too tight.

Where'd ya get the different weatherstrip???

Oh yea, another thing I tried. I took a heat gun to the rear vertical part of the weatherstrip rubber and made it warm enough that I got a little bit of hot rubber fragrance and then slammed the doors shut. Left 'em over night. Didn't do squat--still tight.

Jerry in Denver
Click to expand...
my front lower corner was the main culprit in the door alignment woes after installing the windlace. pain in the ### to locate it too. seems that it should have been the rear lower corner(since that was the area that was out most) but I put a piece of paper in the areas that might be tight and the front lower corner was the only one I couldn't pull it out of when I closed the door.
yep it's got the bulb seal on it and if you look closely at the quarter window seal you will see a umm sort of flap that the bulb part of the windlace will glue into to make a good seal. I had to shorten the part that grips the metal about an inch and leave the tube long enough to pinch into the seal and hit it with black weather strip adhesive . (not done in this picture but you see where it's gotta go)
View attachment DSCF3855.jpg
View attachment DSCF3857.jpg

generic windlace can be had from RT specialties(slightly more than 2.00 per foot 2.50-3.00 ish) and other sources
I used a plastic mallet to flush mine to the pinchweld.
or you can search using this
"Side-Profile Door Seal Gasket" or "pinchweld seals"
that should get you some close hit's to what I got keep looking for the ones without the fins on them if you want closer to stock (I did) , it did take 3 months for mine to allow the door to look right and it still closes great! I was worried that I'd have to redo mine with a thinner (10mm or 3/8th) seal so it was a relief when it finally did go flush with the quarter.


I also found an Australian (sp?) one for you down under guys, but I don't know if you can buy in small quantities
http://www.grahamrubber.com.au/-categories/extrusions/pinchweld/
 
66Devert, Durned if I didn't learn somethin' today. That little flap on the upper "U" shaped seal at the top of the door opening--I just stuck that door weatherstrip into it as if it were meant to go there. Guess it was--duh. Thanks!! That "U" piece even has another little thin flap that makes a light seal with the door garnish. Neat.

I go out to the garage every little bit and piddle with the doors and I have made a really nice difference in how much I gotta slam them, so maybe in a few months they'll take a "set".

I couldn't find anything on R/T Specialties' site--not even door weatherstrips for '63-66 A bodies. That's gotta be an error. Surely they carry those strips. I looked for bulk stuff and didn't find anything like that either.

I "Binged" side profile gaskets and got some interesting stuff there--mostly for refrigerator doors and some looked like they might work on the car. Ain't tried the Aussie one but I might as will.

KitCarlson, I thought of air being trapped inside the rubber tube and haven't tried putting holes in them as yet. When I was considering that as a possible issue I decided that since the door starts pushing the seal closed from front to rear, the air would be progressively pushed out. Maybe not, however. It costs nothing to poke some pressure relief holes, so that will also happen.

It's now time to go for a short spin to see if I generated any new wind noises by changing things. I find hardtop cars to be kinda noisy anyhow, so I probably won't hear any change over all the other squeaks and rattles.

Jerry in Denver
 
60jerry said:
66Devert, Durned if I didn't learn somethin' today. That little flap on the upper "U" shaped seal at the top of the door opening--I just stuck that door weatherstrip into it as if it were meant to go there. Guess it was--duh. Thanks!! That "U" piece even has another little thin flap that makes a light seal with the door garnish. Neat.

I go out to the garage every little bit and piddle with the doors and I have made a really nice difference in how much I gotta slam them, so maybe in a few months they'll take a "set".

I couldn't find anything on R/T Specialties' site--not even door weatherstrips for '63-66 A bodies. That's gotta be an error. Surely they carry those strips. I looked for bulk stuff and didn't find anything like that either.

I "Binged" side profile gaskets and got some interesting stuff there--mostly for refrigerator doors and some looked like they might work on the car. Ain't tried the Aussie one but I might as will.

KitCarlson, I thought of air being trapped inside the rubber tube and haven't tried putting holes in them as yet. When I was considering that as a possible issue I decided that since the door starts pushing the seal closed from front to rear, the air would be progressively pushed out. Maybe not, however. It costs nothing to poke some pressure relief holes, so that will also happen.

It's now time to go for a short spin to see if I generated any new wind noises by changing things. I find hardtop cars to be kinda noisy anyhow, so I probably won't hear any change over all the other squeaks and rattles.

Jerry in Denver
Click to expand...


believe it or not I found some on the Grainger web site
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/rubber-edge-trim-seals/rubber/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-iquZ1z0avyi
you must measure your pinchweld thickness and depth plus choose your bulb size. looks like they have a good selection.
just a little more expensive at around a 67.00 average for 25 feet but still better than the 100+
you can SEM paint the black vinyl and it'll hold well after you clean it and use adhesion promoter. I have one set for my dart that's going to be painted buckskin like the top is .
weatherproof too!
 
Hey 66Dvert,

Think I'll go to one of the local Graingers and check out the stuff they have. Looks like a guy could find something there that will fill the bill. I don't quite understand their dimension info, but I can surely tell what will (or might) it when it's right in front of me.

That Graham Rubber place in Australia looks good too, but Grainger is a bunch closer to me.

Thanks to you for all the suggestions. I would actually like to have something on there that fits and works properly rather than bending that pinch weld in.

Jerry in Denver
 
Hey, again, 66 Dvert

Your "door stood proud......."?

I understood what you meant, but have never heard this expression. Is this a sailing term?
 
Good info. Im nowhere near ready for weatherstrip, but good to know. Thought I remember members saying u can use chevy s10 rubber from the junkyard.
 
64longroof said:
Hey, again, 66 Dvert

Your "door stood proud......."?

I understood what you meant, but have never heard this expression. Is this a sailing term?
Click to expand...


Nah i don't think so, but it might be an old timer thing. my boss(a Looooong time ago when I was just starting out in car repair @ about 13 or so) used to say it when working on an old car(1919-1945 or so) he said it was something like "it was above or stood above" or "stood proud" of the panel. just stuck i guess. I didn't even realize I used the term until you pointed it out, just like the saying "just holler if ya need something" instead of "call if you need something" people look at you funny for the first term but don't the second, yet you hear it the first term) all the time on TV and don't think twice about it!
 
crvtec90 said:
Good info. Im nowhere near ready for weatherstrip, but good to know. Thought I remember members saying u can use chevy s10 rubber from the junkyard.
Click to expand...

yeah I heard that from "WAGGIN" and when I went to the yards I saw plenty of it available, heck even new it's cheaper than the stuff made for our cars. I might go that rout if I need some in a hurry and can't get graingers to get some in quick. I did notice that my dodge ran (1992) diesel had the same type of windlace.. hmm might have to start looking at old dodge square bodies for some too!
those models came from 70's all the way to 93 or so.
 
Hey I am reading this with interest as my 63 Dart convertible is slowly coming back together but I was wondering if yall might post some more pictures so I can wrap my brain around this if ya might!
Thanks
John
 
Hideogumperjr said:
Hey I am reading this with interest as my 63 Dart convertible is slowly coming back together but I was wondering if yall might post some more pictures so I can wrap my brain around this if ya might!
Thanks
John
Click to expand...

what do you need pictures of? my 66 dart convertible is close to the 63 setup sand I got plenty of pictures. (that's just so I can put it back together again really:D)
 
Thanks DVert, I picked up a kit with bumpers for hood and door, hood is pretty self-explanatory am I am looking for pictures of door bumpers and seals and such.
I'm putting my 63 back together and using a process of elimination to find where parts go after a table crash mixed all my parts together.
I have one strange cylindrical rubber bumper that I found on one door but not the other thinking it was discarded after some body work on the drivers side of the car so any pics around the door would be great.
I appreciate the help! Yall are great help!
John
 
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