Dougs headers

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QWKSLVR

QWKSLVR

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Hi. I just installed some d453 headers on my 1969 340 Barracuda with original K-frame. They fit great and was a pretty easy install. Only issue is driver side hits the torsion bar. These are ceramic coated so what is the best way to gain some clearance? Will the ceramic coating crack if I take a hammer to them or a pry bar? Should I heat up the area first or do it cold? I tried new motor mounts thinking mine might be weak/old but its not any better. Thanks for any and all help. Bobby
 
QWKSLVR said:
Hi. I just installed some d453 headers on my 1969 340 Barracuda with original K-frame. They fit great and was a pretty easy install. Only issue is driver side hits the torsion bar. These are ceramic coated so what is the best way to gain some clearance? Will the ceramic coating crack if I take a hammer to them or a pry bar? Should I heat up the area first or do it cold? I tried new motor mounts thinking mine might be weak/old but its not any better. Thanks for any and all help. Bobby
Click to expand...
A C clamp and a block of wood on the opposite side to spread the load if you have the room. Plastic shims from Home Depot for the side that you want to dent to prevent metal on metal contact. Hope this makes sense.
 
Make sure the engine is centered... K-frame is slotted and twisting the engine may move the header away from the torsion bar.
 
I would make sure it's bolted tight to the head and put a piece of pipe in the collector and bend, twist the header away from the t-bar. It usually wont take much and it wont crack the coating.
 
If it was such an easy install, just take some time to move the engine over.

As for the coating, roadsalt will take well care of that.
The JetHot coating on the lower end near the collectors on my Dougs are flaking off bigtime and rusting underneath after just 1 mild winter but with quite some roadsalt.
 
All good ideas. My car is never winter driven so I expect them to last a long time. Thanks Bobby
 
Last edited:
I had to c-clamp and hammer my D453 headers a little bit to clear my steering. ...no big deal....

Jeff
 
I used a ratchet strap from collector to collector and bent them inwards. Left them on for a weekend. Had to do it a couple times.
 
loosen the engine mounts and move the motor over...make sure its not hitting anything. You will be happy with these headers....no more bottoming out!
 
I had to clearance the drivers side with the 1.03 bars some thick Tubing and some love taps gave me the clearance and needed to do the rear tube because of steering column even though I moved column over it wasn't enough. Pass side fitted like a glove.
 
67 gt said:
I had to clearance the drivers side with the 1.03 bars some thick Tubing and some love taps gave me the clearance and needed to do the rear tube because of steering column even though I moved column over it wasn't enough. Pass side fitted like a glove.
Click to expand...
I had to take a big pair of channel locks to my # 2 tube , just to get more room to the valve cover, it was so close it melted the valve cover gasket. Of course u want to shim the opposite side like stated above. Might have to mark the area and pull the header off to get the big channel locks on it. Egg shape is better than hammer dents.
 
Sorry I should have updated this sooner. While I was at the muffler shop having new mufflers and front pipes installed they pulled out the air hammer and was able to give me the clearance I needed. Lots more performance and lots of ground clearance. Couldn't be happier. Bobby
 
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