When plumbing a drag car do I still need a proportioning valve????? I'm putting in a rear valved pressure reducing valve to set front/back bias but not clear if I still have to put a proportioning valve in--Steve
drag brakes plumbing
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Robbie2734
Lambcharger
I haven't raced in years but do remember one thing...I wanted that car to stop when I needed it to!!! I think I'd build the best system I could.
So, trying to figure out what you're doing. You're adding a proportioning valve like this...
in order to control the front/rear bias correct?
And you want to know if you still need the stock combination valve?
If that is the case, I see a couple reasons to keep the stock combo valve. One, you still need to split the lines to the front brakes somehow. Two, assuming you still have drum brakes in the back, you need a residual pressure valve. That valve resides in the stock combination valve . Finally, I'm guessing that since this is a race car you're not worried about the brake lights, since one of the switches is also in the combo valve.
If all that is right, then you can ditch the stock combo valve as long as you use a brake tee to split your front lines, and plumb in a residual valve for your rear drums (10 psi for drums, 2 psi for disks). Personally, I'd keep the stock combo valve as long as its working properly and just add the proportioning valve for the rear. Or you could use something like this
Which solves your distribution block and prop valve problems, and still leaves a switch for the brake lights if you ever need them. You do still need a residual valve if you use rear drums with this one, found that one out the hard way.
in order to control the front/rear bias correct?
And you want to know if you still need the stock combination valve?
If that is the case, I see a couple reasons to keep the stock combo valve. One, you still need to split the lines to the front brakes somehow. Two, assuming you still have drum brakes in the back, you need a residual pressure valve. That valve resides in the stock combination valve . Finally, I'm guessing that since this is a race car you're not worried about the brake lights, since one of the switches is also in the combo valve.
If all that is right, then you can ditch the stock combo valve as long as you use a brake tee to split your front lines, and plumb in a residual valve for your rear drums (10 psi for drums, 2 psi for disks). Personally, I'd keep the stock combo valve as long as its working properly and just add the proportioning valve for the rear. Or you could use something like this
Which solves your distribution block and prop valve problems, and still leaves a switch for the brake lights if you ever need them. You do still need a residual valve if you use rear drums with this one, found that one out the hard way.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
How about http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179/overview ? Splits the front and gives you proportioning valve on the rear....if I am seeing it right....
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
That is what will be going into our car as well.....
vitamindart
Well-Known Member
that's what I have on my valiant as well. its cheaper than the summit one pictured earlier. on a side note I have used both versions pictured and they work very well.
allowing for adjustment of how much rear brake applied.
allowing for adjustment of how much rear brake applied.
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