What kind of drill bits does anyone use to drill out spot welds? I bought titanium bits from Harbor Freight and it took ten bits to drill three holes. Actually my father's 50 year old bits were better than these new bits. Can anyone recommend a bit that would work?
Drill bits for drilling out spot welds
- Thread starter tom999w
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Be carefully how deep you drill as you don't want to drill 1/4 to 3/8 holes in the lip of a cross member.
An automatic center punch will help too
An automatic center punch will help too
You need the spot weld cutters Harbour freight has them..
I saw online that some people didn't care for the spot weld cutters. So that's why the decision was to use a bunch of drill bits. Also, the particular welds being drilled are on the drivers side inner and outer rocker that's being replaced, so the rocker can get as many holes in it as needed since it's getting replaced.
How many welds can you drill out with the spotweld cutter before you have to replace it?
Blair drill bits?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
If you're not trying to save the top panel, I've had great luck with a carbide burr. Even a mini belt sander works well.
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Yep....I bought some off a Snap On truck 30 years ago and they are still working fine. Like someone said above, I use a little cutting oil. I also use the smallest one needed to cut the spot weld. You kind of develop a knack for knowing when to stop and not bore thru the backside metal.
www.blairequipment.com
Spot Weld Cutters | Blair Equipment
Blair Spot Weld cutters are the fast, easy way to remove spotwelds in car restoration or auto body repair work.
www.blairequipment.com
Daves69
Well-Known Member
I didn't count 'em but 3 sides (of two cutters) got a pair of inner fender wells off a front clip.
i have both (not blair but looks like that )
and the other one the other one is ok ,nice thing about it when it cuts the 1st layer it will pop and save the next
the blair style rocks but much easier to cut the second layer
all new drill bits suck compared to old stuff
ill see if i can remember it take a pick of the better one i have
if your easy on it your cut a 100 welds + i would get 30/40 out of the cheaper one as long as your easy on it
and the other one the other one is ok ,nice thing about it when it cuts the 1st layer it will pop and save the next
the blair style rocks but much easier to cut the second layer
all new drill bits suck compared to old stuff
ill see if i can remember it take a pick of the better one i have
if your easy on it your cut a 100 welds + i would get 30/40 out of the cheaper one as long as your easy on it
I know lots of people use these where there's room. They make really quick work of spot welds.
I wonder how many spotwelds a belt sander can sand before the belt is no good..
From what I understand, a good many unless you use the coarsest belt.
Sorry. My photos crashed the post. Let’s try again.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Well, @tom999w, I have two spot welds drillers just like the one in post #3 that I bought from HF, and I have drilled dozens and dozens (maybe over a hundred) of spot welds with them. To keep it from walking, I drill a 1/8" hole for the point to rest in. If you are careful, you can drill only through the top layer. Also, don't drill fast or push down too hard. That is a common mistake people make. When drilling metal (even with a spot weld bit), the worst thing you can do is pull the trigger on your drill and go at max speed and push down too hard. Go nice and slow and push down firmly but not hard.. Give the bit a chance to dig in and start cutting. If you are going too fast and/or pushing too hard, the bit will not have a chance to cut properly and will likely break. I have never used a lube with a spot weld bit, but it certainly would not hurt.
If you broke ten bits drilling three holes, I will Guarantee you are doing one of two things:
1. Using a speed that is way too fast and pushing down a bit too hard; or
2. Using a reasonable speed and pushing down way too hard.
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I've seen a lot of PRO Guys forgo the drill bits and spot weld cutter for a 1/2" finger sander nowadays.
I am getting ready to replace both rocker panels on one of my AMC Hornets and that's the what I plan to use.
Tom
I am getting ready to replace both rocker panels on one of my AMC Hornets and that's the what I plan to use.
Tom
Nice thing about the spot weld cutter is it can leave the mating piece undamaged
Or it leaves a nice hole to weld back
Or it leaves a nice hole to weld back
I was told long ago to use the HF spot weld cutters, they do not disappoint.
This is what I use. They stay sharp and drill very well. Not all Cobalt bits are created equal.. Some have less % cobalt in them. Irwin have been consistent for me.
Pardon Our Interruption...
Pardon Our Interruption...
gzig5
Well-Known Member
The HF style cutters work decent once you get the speed and pressure right. You pretty much need to have at least a good center punch dimple or a 1/16" hole or center drill spot for the centering spindle to guide it or they will walk like crazy and break teeth. I make a new center spindle that has a better fit so it won't wiggle as much.
The Blair are hands down the best quality cutter and will want a center punch too. Use a little dark cutting fluid from the plumbing isle. I use a Starrett automatic center punch or a small center drill with 1/16" or smaller tip.
I got the Neiko 10052 from Amazon a couple years ago and for certain welds in certain positions, it works well if a little bit slower. It is great when you want to keep from cutting a hole in the piece on the back side.
The belt sander works fast but takes some technique to know where to apply pressure and minimize the size of the hole. Only down side is the size of the hole can be bigger than is easily plug welded if you are reusing the part. Invest in 3M Cubitron belts in 60 or 80 grit.
The Blair are hands down the best quality cutter and will want a center punch too. Use a little dark cutting fluid from the plumbing isle. I use a Starrett automatic center punch or a small center drill with 1/16" or smaller tip.
I got the Neiko 10052 from Amazon a couple years ago and for certain welds in certain positions, it works well if a little bit slower. It is great when you want to keep from cutting a hole in the piece on the back side.
The belt sander works fast but takes some technique to know where to apply pressure and minimize the size of the hole. Only down side is the size of the hole can be bigger than is easily plug welded if you are reusing the part. Invest in 3M Cubitron belts in 60 or 80 grit.
As another mentioned cutting fluid extends the life.
If the piece you are removing is top layer and headed to the trash, I wouldn't spend the time on spot weld cutting them with a drill.
The belt sander or a grinding stone or zirc wheel on a grinder. Zirc wheel, make a quick pass over the section to identify the low spots/welds and get after it. You can get real good and taking off just enough material to break the piece loose without messing up the lower layers.
Saving the top layer, spot weld cut away. I've used blairs and also the self centering dewalt titanium bits. Drill bits like to grab so you have to be careful.
The belt sander or a grinding stone or zirc wheel on a grinder. Zirc wheel, make a quick pass over the section to identify the low spots/welds and get after it. You can get real good and taking off just enough material to break the piece loose without messing up the lower layers.
Saving the top layer, spot weld cut away. I've used blairs and also the self centering dewalt titanium bits. Drill bits like to grab so you have to be careful.
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