Drive on lift

-

Snake

Mopar Nut
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
9,454
Reaction score
491
Location
Belleville Canada
Ok I am thinking of building my own sub frame connectors, for the Dart.Ihave a buddy who works at a muffler shop and they have a drive on lift so me thinking this should work right or wrong,any thoughts.
 
That is the way to do it. If you notice when you jack the car up the doors probably don't open or close very well.
 
Doing a little search here and there is a good right up from bigblock.com any thoughts? on using them.
 
I just used the Mopar ones and welded them in. My car has torque boxes, so I had to cut them abit. They seam to work ok and look fine, just rolled on some tre clad semi gloss black with a foam roller. The lift is the way to go. Andrew
 
You may have to roll it off the rack to reach all the welds, but you should be able to weld the majority of it on the rack. Only way to go if you have access to the lift IMO. Nice to have friends with equipment! :cheers:
Do you have to pay him shop time or like me with friends, trade for beer? :drinkers:
 
You may have to roll it off the rack to reach all the welds, but you should be able to weld the majority of it on the rack. Only way to go if you have access to the lift IMO. Nice to have friends with equipment! :cheers:
Do you have to pay him shop time or like me with friends, trade for beer? :drinkers:
Yes its not free.
 
Are you building the FCs or is he? You can do a lot of prep yourself before you bring it to him and save him a lot of time and you $. You could even do all the finish welding at home...if your a welder. Just nice to have the chassis loaded/wheels on the rack when you start welding them in.
FYI Have all you plumbing and parking brake cables sorted out before he starts welding. It costs twice as much to un-weld.
 
Are you building the FCs or is he? You can do a lot of prep yourself before you bring it to him and save him a lot of time and you $. You could even do all the finish welding at home...if your a welder. Just nice to have the chassis loaded/wheels on the rack when you start welding them in.
FYI Have all you plumbing and parking brake cables sorted out before he starts welding. It costs twice as much to un-weld.

Ya i plan on doing some of the fab first the only thing is how to cut the notch for the rear on the bar would a cut of wheel on a drill work.No sir me not a welder.this project will be soon not now,so i am doing my home work first it looks like a no brainier to me.:burnout:2x3 rectangle cut to length weld a plate on that is 2''x6'' for the front and notch the rear weld on.I STOKE.
 
You got it! No better place to do your home work than FABO. Measure, measure then measure again. Then cut!
A cut off wheel on a drill sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.
A cut off wheel in a grinder with a guard at the right RPM and your PPE sounds like a better plan to me IMO. That is what I used. :glasses7:
 
I used the Mopar ones too. They required quite a bit of trimming and then I welded them in. This is on a 1972 Dart and it's a dedicated race car. I also installed an 8 point role cage. That combination should keep the frame pretty ridged.
 
I made mine out of 2x3 14 gauge rectangular tubing I bought for $20 at the local metal supply. I cut very front of the rear frame channels and inserted the tube into the opening. The back half of the connectors comes up through the floor pan so there is a lot of cutting and fitting but real happy with the results.
 
I made mine out of 2x3 14 gauge rectangular tubing I bought for $20 at the local metal supply. I cut very front of the rear frame channels and inserted the tube into the opening. The back half of the connectors comes up through the floor pan so there is a lot of cutting and fitting but real happy with the results.

If I am understanding your post, you actually cut the factory frame in order to install the new frame connectors? I have never seen that, can you provide a picture or two of your work? I hope you haven't compromised the original frame or created a potential weak spot! Just sayin'... not knowin'
 
If I am understanding your post, you actually cut the factory frame in order to install the new frame connectors? I have never seen that, can you provide a picture or two of your work? I hope you haven't compromised the original frame or created a potential weak spot! Just sayin'... not knowin'

It looks something like this.

Inserted into frame rail.
View attachment th.jpg


Through floor.
View attachment th1.jpg
 
Got it, thanks for the pics BadSport. Yes I've seen it done like that before, more work, but looks good.
 
I did not bury mine up in the floors. I went under the floors. On my more-door the interior and carpet was new..er and I didn't want to modify the back seat bottom or re-carpet. A couple photos Snake. The holes are not for bolting on but for plug welds. The gap at the rear of the FC was boxed in with plate and welded to my home made inboard spring pockets.
Larry
 

Attachments

  • dart fab 176.jpg
    135.1 KB · Views: 114
  • dart fab 172.jpg
    167 KB · Views: 133
  • dart fab 177.jpg
    121.1 KB · Views: 126
  • dart fab 039.jpg
    149.1 KB · Views: 151
  • dart fab 178.jpg
    118.6 KB · Views: 124
  • december 016.jpg
    121.8 KB · Views: 136
  • december 058.jpg
    136.2 KB · Views: 128
  • december 057.jpg
    130.9 KB · Views: 140
  • dart fab 018.jpg
    141.8 KB · Views: 148
  • dart fab 020.jpg
    93.6 KB · Views: 159
Thanks for the complement Snake!
That notch may be required on later A's. Don't know. Remember mine is a '63 and a little different.
 
-
Back
Top