Drive Shaft Options

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DentalDart

DentalDart

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With so many DS options is there a consensus option that is quality as well as cost effective? My 3 main options right now are.
1. Strange Eng from Dr Diff $350 or 2 local DS shops.
2.Dan's Driveline in vegas who I've never dealt with but have heard good and bad things about so I won't form an opinion wants 200 to shorten mine or 300 for a new one.
3.Adam's Driveshaft who mainly does all the Jeep, Rockcrawlers, and Trucks in town and his stuff is bad *** (had them on 2 built rubicons) as well as an awesome owner, they said they could build one for my car for 28-350 depending on the dimensions of the shaft.

Should I be looking at the jegs, cardone, or summit shafts?

Car- 1969 Dart
Engine- little 340
Trans - 904 (727 will go in maybe next year, I want to rebuild it first because i dont know it's current internal shape or how to check if it's in good shape)
Rear end- 8.75 with 3.23 and sure grip

Ds length should be roughly 51.75in?
Do I need specific yokes or joints?

Thanks and here are some pics for clicks and all the help!

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DentalDart said:
With so many DS options is there a consensus option that is quality as well as cost effective? My 3 main options right now are.
1. Strange Eng from Dr Diff $350 or 2 local DS shops.
2.Dan's Driveline in vegas who I've never dealt with but have heard good and bad things about so I won't form an opinion wants 200 to shorten mine or 300 for a new one.
3.Adam's Driveshaft who mainly does all the Jeep, Rockcrawlers, and Trucks in town and his stuff is bad *** (had them on 2 built rubicons) as well as an awesome owner, they said they could build one for my car for 28-350 depending on the dimensions of the shaft.

Should I be looking at the jegs, cardone, or summit shafts?

Car- 1969 Dart
Engine- little 340
Trans - 904 (727 will go in maybe next year, I want to rebuild it first because i dont know it's current internal shape or how to check if it's in good shape)
Rear end- 8.75 with 3.23 and sure grip

Ds length should be roughly 51.75in?
Do I need specific yokes or joints?

Thanks and here are some pics for clicks and all the help!

View attachment 1715457396

View attachment 1715457397
Click to expand...

Your local shop prices are pretty good. Get a new one, don't trim. Using a local shop they'll be able to match up to whatever yoke/u-joint setup you have (7260 or 7290). If you go to a 727 you'll need a new trans yoke, not that a new one for the 904 isn't a bad idea (they're 75-ish for stock replacement). I don't think you'll need a 1310 or 1350, so don't let em talk you into that (unless I really missed something about your combo). Super cute pics of your kiddos BTW.
 
dusterbing the peace said:
Your local shop prices are pretty good. Get a new one, don't trim. Using a local shop they'll be able to match up to whatever yoke/u-joint setup you have (7260 or 7290). If you go to a 727 you'll need a new trans yoke, not that a new one for the 904 isn't a bad idea (they're 75-ish for stock replacement). I don't think you'll need a 1310 or 1350, so don't let em talk you into that (unless I really missed something about your combo). Super cute pics of your kiddos BTW.
Click to expand...

I dont know what I have regarding yokes or u-joints. Heres the shaft that was on the car. Also the connector on the 8.75

20200123_095629.jpg


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Measure the inside dimension of the yoke, between where the caps of the u-joint mounts on the 8 3/4. The 7260 is 2-1/8" yoke ID and the 7290 is 2-5/8" yoke ID.

The cap diameter for the 7260 is 1.078". The cap diameter for the 7290 is 1.126".
 
dusterbing the peace said:
Measure the inside dimension of the yoke, between where the caps of the u-joint mounts on the 8 3/4. The 7260 is 2-1/8" yoke ID and the 7290 is 2-5/8" yoke ID.

The cap diameter for the 7260 is 1.078". The cap diameter for the 7290 is 1.126".
Click to expand...

I believe at the driveshaft is 2 1/8 (edge to edge, if center to center it looks like 2 5/8) with 1 1/8 diameter.

The 8 3/4 seems to be about the same?

This would be a 7290 yoke/joint?

20200123_104633.jpg


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CudaFactHackJob said:
Take apart the 727, post pics, and use an original driveshaft.
Click to expand...

Cant take the 727 apart right now, I have no room to start another project before finishing one. Also original driveshafts are hard to find and by the time I find/ship one the cost would be the same as getting a new one

20200121_181235.jpg


20200112_162046.jpg
 
Current DS length is 54 3/8 in

dusterbing the peace said:
Looks like a 7260. Again, your DS shop will be able to verify and provide the DS yokes you need as part of the package.
Click to expand...

Yea they said they would, I just wanted to make sure I'd be able to bring it home and bolt it right up so I wanted to take them the correct yokes, u joints and length.

I thought the 727/ 8.75 used the bigger of the 2 and my swap tranny and rear end came out of a 68 gts.

This is also fun though because I get to learn e everything that I dont know and store it for later in the back of the brain.

Thanks a bunch for all of the help!

20200123_114857.jpg
 
When I was in Vegas, Dan's was highly recommended. He did the shaft in a buddy's e-body for a Dana rear end and it was perfect. The only drawback was time - he seems to stay busy, so it can often take a couple weeks to get work done.
All the local racers I bought parts from recommended Dan's also.

I had to have my driveshaft worked on up here in Idaho through a very reputable guy, and he had few good words about the factory chrysler driveshafts. He made mine better, but showed me a few things in his shop that convinced me that paying to modify one is basically throwing away good money - just get a new one made and delight in knowing it's better than the 50+yr old piece you've got, and that a good shop will back it with a warranty too. Nothing beats having local support, too.
 
I'd rather have a factory driveshaft anytime. But there are plenty of salesmen out there talking down original pieces just to sell a product.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
I'd rather have a factory driveshaft anytime. But there are plenty of salesmen out there talking down original pieces just to sell a product.
Click to expand...

Maybe you missed the "showed me" part. It was no sales job, but an explanation and illustration. I work in manufacturing, so there's no much smoke he could blow up my *** I wouldn't call out.
One-off fabricated parts should always be better than old factory parts with 50 years of use and abuse, but whatever.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
I cut driveshaft myself..so there's that.
Click to expand...

Free versus $300 definitely makes that an easier proposition, then! LOL
The $50 difference quoted above between 'new' and 'modified', to me, makes the 'new' one a no-brainer.
Maybe I would think different if I already knew my driveshaft was straight - but finding that out would eat up that $50 difference in a hurry.
 
DentalDart said:
With so many DS options is there a consensus option that is quality as well as cost effective? My 3 main options right now are.
1. Strange Eng from Dr Diff $350 or 2 local DS shops.
2.Dan's Driveline in vegas who I've never dealt with but have heard good and bad things about so I won't form an opinion wants 200 to shorten mine or 300 for a new one.
3.Adam's Driveshaft who mainly does all the Jeep, Rockcrawlers, and Trucks in town and his stuff is bad *** (had them on 2 built rubicons) as well as an awesome owner, they said they could build one for my car for 28-350 depending on the dimensions of the shaft.

Should I be looking at the jegs, cardone, or summit shafts?

Car- 1969 Dart
Engine- little 340
Trans - 904 (727 will go in maybe next year, I want to rebuild it first because i dont know it's current internal shape or how to check if it's in good shape)
Rear end- 8.75 with 3.23 and sure grip

Ds length should be roughly 51.75in?
Do I need specific yokes or joints?

Thanks and here are some pics for clicks and all the help!

View attachment 1715457396

View attachment 1715457397
Click to expand...

200 for shortening is ridiculous, and I bet they are just trying to get you to buy the 300 one.
I am having mine shortened and rebalanced by a driveline shop that builds them for hi performance and they quoted me 50 bucks.

You have 7260 joints and yokes so if you wanted to go with 7290 you would need a new yoke for the trans and rear end and a new driveshaft with 7290 sized yokes on each end for the ujoints.
Those yokes are kinda pricey.

Since you are not currently putting the 727 in it my personal opinion is that you have a lot going on right now, and you might consider just using the 904 and your stock shaft.
Then swap to the 727/7290 shaft down the road after verifying the 727.
(unless I am missing something)
 
I don't know of any shop that would work with a bent driveshaft, but I haven't had your experiences. But the reason I'm causing so much trouble on here in the first place is because the whole thing just doesn't make sense to me (yet).. and I'm just trying to understand why anybody would be in favor of running an old worn 904 behind a 340 (never a factory option; always the 727); yet be so intent on having the best of driveshafts (overkill), when they have a 727 (which is probably just as unknown as the 904) all while looking forward to rebuilding the 727 and installing it at a later date (which will involve shortening the new driveshaft)..while all along, he could have this project on the road with the 7 1/4 and stock driveshaft (which will probably last as long as that old stock 904); notwithstanding how long it will take the driveshaft shop to build the new one. IMAHO.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
You mean you got a driveshaft that fits your car but for the 727? Or is that driveshaft for a 904 7 1/4?
Click to expand...

Correct- The current DS I have is for a 904 w/ 7 1/4 rear end. My current car is a mutt of a dart. The guy I bought it from was told it was a 69 340 gts car when he bought it, ended up not being a 340 gts, it was actually a /6 custom. So he bought a 68 gts car that had a rough body took the 340, 8 3/4, 727, headers, exhaust, floor shifter, interior, trim etc etc out and started installing it in the 69 custom. When I bought it the car was running and driving with the 340 in it but not the rear end, trans, floor shifter, headers, exhaust etc.

I have redone the cooling system (minus a radiator, cold case was out of stock last time I called to buy one), installed the 8.75 w/ 3.23 gears and sure grip, 11in rear drums, front disc brakes, new MC/hoses, new carb, new plugs and wires, headers, exhaust, and entire suspension system bushings, shocks, tires, wheels. You know the usual.

Now I just need a DS to install that fits the 904 and 8.75

TrailBeast said:
200 for shortening is ridiculous, and I bet they are just trying to get you to buy the 300 one.
I am having mine shortened and rebalanced by a driveline shop that builds them for hi performance and they quoted me 50 bucks.

You have 7260 joints and yokes so if you wanted to go with 7290 you would need a new yoke for the trans and rear end and a new driveshaft with 7290 sized yokes on each end for the ujoints.
Those yokes are kinda pricey.

Since you are not currently putting the 727 in it my personal opinion is that you have a lot going on right now, and you might consider just using the 904 and your stock shaft.
Then swap to the 727/7290 shaft down the road after verifying the 727.
(unless I am missing something)
Click to expand...
]

Yea Dans was pricey to shorten the shaft which is why I asked them how much a new shaft was, when the guy said about 300 for a new shaft it just seems logical to go with the new shaft.

I am using my 904 but cannot use my stock shaft due to changing the rear end from an open 7.25
to a 8.75 with 3.23 gears and sure grip. My shaft fits the 904 but not the 8.75. Yes I want to go through the 727 before installing it that way I know it will work properly and not give me any problems, and I need a torque shaft for the 727. The 904 shifts nice right now so it gives me time on 727
 
What happened to the driveshaft out of the 68 GTS? You didn't mention how long it would take the shop to make the new ds. And if you read TB's post, it's time to find another driveshaft shop.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
What happened to the driveshaft out of the 68 GTS? You didn't mention how long it would take the shop to make the new ds. And if you read TB's post, it's time to find another driveshaft shop.
Click to expand...

I don't know I bought the car and with the car I got a 727, 8.75, headers, exhaust, floor shifter (minus torque shaft), 73+ front end, 489 case, gears and sure grip. He offered me all of the spare parts he had with the car (for more money than I paid) but I don't have room for 2 cars in my garage lol.

Yea that is why I asked about strange engineering DS and or using another shop. Dans said it would be close to 100 to shorten my shaft.
 
How long will it take to make the new shaft? You could have had the front drums dropped out of that 727 by now....jis sane..
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
I don't know of any shop that would work with a bent driveshaft, but I haven't had your experiences. But the reason I'm causing so much trouble on here in the first place is because the whole thing just doesn't make sense to me (yet).. and I'm just trying to understand why anybody would be in favor of running an old worn 904 behind a 340 (never a factory option; always the 727); yet be so intent on having the best of driveshafts (overkill), when they have a 727 (which is probably just as unknown as the 904) all while looking forward to rebuilding the 727 and installing it at a later date (which will involve shortening the new driveshaft)..while all along, he could have this project on the road with the 7 1/4 and stock driveshaft (which will probably last as long as that old stock 904); notwithstanding how long it will take the driveshaft shop to build the new one. IMAHO.
Click to expand...

Long story short: three shops in Vegas swapped U-joints for me before my now-local guy figured out why they were being eaten up (bent, ish). Each shop blamed the previous for being 'hacks' (they all were, apparently). I plan to replace the shaft later, but needed the stock one back in a hurry so he did what he could. I asked "how much worse" mine was compared to factory, and he showed me several other Chrysler shafts he had in for work. Mine was bad, but the rest looked like junk to me too (based on what I'm used to for runout/alignment tolerances). So that's the basis of my opinion. When the costs are so close, it's a no-brainer to go with new.

I really only chimed in originally because I have experience with Dan's (I was too cheap to go to his shop in the first place, but based on my friend's experience I should have). If I remember correctly, my buddy wound up paying less because his u-joints were near-new (Dan's assumed they'd need replaced) and he didn't bring in a grease-ball part either. YMMV.
 
TrailBeast said:
200 for shortening is ridiculous, and I bet they are just trying to get you to buy the 300 one.
I am having mine shortened and rebalanced by a driveline shop that builds them for hi performance and they quoted me 50 bucks.
Click to expand...

CudaFactHackJob said:
And if you read TB's post, it's time to find another driveshaft shop.
Click to expand...

Vegas is a strange place - it was hell trying to find good shops and there's not many shops to begin with. Or maybe the good ones don't advertise?
Almost everything I ever paid to have done there cost 2-3x what I paid in AZ, WA, or ID.
 
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