So guy's I'll be pulling the duster out of storage soon and the update for this spring is the drive shaft,u-joints and diff. yoke,I want to go from the 1350 up to the 1790 u-joints,I think they are the strongest???? If you have insight let me know,Ok I need help with the drive shaft ??? Do i go with the chrome-molly???? aluminum???? any input would help my decision . Thanks Steve
driveshaft choices
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73Scamp318
Well-Known Member
Is this a strip car? What kind of ET/mph/HP are you putting down and what does it weigh? A 1350 is a pretty big U joint already. I'm not familiar with the 1790 and can't seem to find any info on it.
I doubt I'll be of much help here as I'm still using the stock driveshaft on mine with 7260 joints, but this is probably info that the more knowledgeable people here may want before making a suggestion.
I doubt I'll be of much help here as I'm still using the stock driveshaft on mine with 7260 joints, but this is probably info that the more knowledgeable people here may want before making a suggestion.
I think he meant 7290 joint?
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
When I swapped to a Dana I bought a CM shaft with 1350 u-joints/yoke.I was running a stock shaft with 7260/7290 crossover u-joints.I never had any problems with the 7260/7290 ones.I just wanted to upgrade to stronger.
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
I've been running Spicer solid 7260 joints on my Dart Sport for many years without problems. The shaft is mild steel tubing, but I forgot what wall thickness. 3,540 lbs +, high 1.48-1.49 wheels-up 60' times with low 11's around 116-117 footbraking.
1350 are probably the most popular performance u-joint so spares/replacements would be easiest to find along with the yokes & trans slip splines, just more expensive. But regardless which size you go with, I'd suggest the Spicer solid joints and a billet steel rear end yoke. OEM yokes can spread and allow the u-joint to hammer itself out over time and hard launches.
1350 are probably the most popular performance u-joint so spares/replacements would be easiest to find along with the yokes & trans slip splines, just more expensive. But regardless which size you go with, I'd suggest the Spicer solid joints and a billet steel rear end yoke. OEM yokes can spread and allow the u-joint to hammer itself out over time and hard launches.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Chrome Moly driveshaft,bought from Mancini,s Racing.
Sorry guy's typing error on my part--I meant 7290 solid joints,I have 1350's now with the grease zirk's which makes them hollow and not solid,Do I have my numbers screwed up??? I think petty blue went from 7290's to 1350's or the other way around????? Thanks Steve--I thought 7290 solid's were the strongest?????
I think if you went with the 7290 solid joints you are more than good enough. I don't know how much if any you would gain with 1350 joints. Or if you already have 1350's just replace them with solid joints.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
It's been a real long time since I read the size specs of U-joints but I thought 1350's were heavier duty than 7290's? If I'm wrong someone please correct me.
aengineguy
Well-Known Member
The sizes are from smallest to larger, 7260, 7290 then the 1350. I built mine with 1350's, 3" .083 wall mild steel. I have a 904 and that is the spendy part as the slip yokes are $$$, it is a Mark Williams part.
whodacudaman
Well-Known Member
i have a brand new 3.5in aluminum driveshaft with the 1350s on both sides--i had it made for a 68 notch with a dana in back and 4 speed up front..its new never in a car---can anyone use??
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
You would want the lightest shaft possible if you want performance
Whether or not you need 1350 or even 7290 is really dependent on use and power or future expectations.
I use AL or CF shafts in performance apps, joints series accordingly.
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Whether or not you need 1350 or even 7290 is really dependent on use and power or future expectations.
I use AL or CF shafts in performance apps, joints series accordingly.
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In the duster,I know it will never have slicks but will go down the track a time or two,I updated the center section From Dr.Diff to a 489 case,I just thought my 1350 u-joints were the weak point in my drive train,What i think I'm hearing is i might be good to go,Although I'm going to put a drive shaft loop in.It seams there is a lot of learning all of us could do on the strength of different Chrysler u-joints,I might give Dr. Diff a call this week and see what his thoughts are on the subject,I have nothing but GOOD things to say about him,He has treated me well--Steve
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
The 1350 u-joint is the biggest strongest of all the u-joints,so your good to go.I raced 10,s for 2 yrs with 7260/7290 crossover u-joints without any issues,so they,re also very strong...just sayin.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
I wish,I have plenty Nostalgia events up here to attend,but ya never know.LOL
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
1350 series made by spicer or aam will hold more tq then most any will ever get near. The china stuff from everyone else is a gamble
As will certain 1310, 7260, 7290 be plenty strong in spicer and spl
While i have used some conversion joints in vehicles with hp, (by hp i mean 650hp and up) conversions joints have issues with high torsional abuse.
I have a car doing 1.2 60's with a spicer 1310 conversion, though whenever that car leaves it's like staring at a revolver that has just had it's cylinder spun.
I have seen more conversion joints fail with less than the very few i have seen work.
When using a conversion joint i would stress to only use a spicer as the rest are china.
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pettybludart
Well-Known Member
SuperShafts,I agree with your statement.I had future plans for my car(Dana60,new billet yokes,1350 joints and a transbrake)I,ve been 60ft in the 1.44 and figured it was only a matter of time before something gives.Twisted 30 spline axels and a bent housing,made the choice for me.I was lucky to have already ordered the new parts.
Still the crossover 7260/7290 held out alot of beatings.
Still the crossover 7260/7290 held out alot of beatings.Ok we handled the u-joint question NOW what about the drive shaft question--is there a power/torque limit to Alum Drive shafts???? Or chrome/moly???? If you were up-dating your street car would you be hesitant to use a alum.Drive shaft??? Thanks Guy's Excellent thread--Steve
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
There is a limit for everything, you can't have general this is good for this and that is good for that.
Driveshafts strength are all dependent on a few different things, length, rpm, power.
Those 3 primarily set the diameter and which shaft wall.
Material is material and again is dependent on length, rpm, power.
I have 4" AL in adrl pro stock cars, and nhra pro stock most street and strip use 3 or 3.5"
CF is also another great material for performance but twice the cost, and in some uses it is the only choice option, example i have srt truck that has now past the limits for 1pc AL and has no choice but a 2pc stl shaft that will kill it's performance, or is limited to 6000 rpm and will lose, it now is a 4" CF shaft.
In the performance world you don't want stl, stl is over weight and hinders the ability to accelerate at all times.
If you look at a lot of new cars and trucks you'll see they are going to AL and yes even CF shafts in them and thats not only to get the performance, but more importantly for some is to get the mpg.
I have AL in my shop truck, pulling truck, off-road truck, my street cars and race cars, i have AL in off-shore race boats
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younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
my dads 451 demon picked up .15 in the quarter with an aluminum shaft. he drives the car 30 miles ea. way on pump gas and runs 10.60s. with 1.40-1.45 60 ft. times. we made 2 passes then pulled the chromo shaft and slid in the alum shaft and the car picked up .15. same day, same track, same tune and passes 30 min apart. that is pretty impressive.
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