dropping SB oil pan in car

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Neal Zimmerman

Neal Zimmerman

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after the timing gear disaster of other thread, i am gonna drop pan and check(replace oil pump) and check a main and rod bearing, see how they look and go from there. How difficult is it to drop oil pan in 68 cuda with 340. Do u need to unbolt motor mounts and raise motor slightly?? how about the center link, looks like that needs to come out. how do u do that?
neal
 
..ok speaking about my E body... the center link has to be removed...and I had to raise the engine just a little to get the clearance to REMOVE the oil pan..My eninge is a 340 also... so I think the work is the same..
Hope that helps..

BTW... when you remove the Oil pan.. install the timing cover before you put the oil pan back in... way easier !

Greetings Juergen
 
Neal Zimmerman said:
after the timing gear disaster of other thread, i am gonna drop pan and check(replace oil pump) and check a main and rod bearing, see how they look and go from there. How difficult is it to drop oil pan in 68 cuda with 340. Do u need to unbolt motor mounts and raise motor slightly?? how about the center link, looks like that needs to come out. how do u do that?
neal
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I have a 360 in a Scamp with a deep Milodon pan - I did an oil pan gasket without removing the engine -- once. Admittedly there is a lot less room with the bigger pan, but be sure, doing that gasket essentially upside down, really sucks. As mentioned above - pulltheengine - pull the engine... yea, it's a little bit of a PITA - but in the long run, it's easier.
 
Neal Zimmerman said:
as to pulling motor I don't necessarily like the idea of laying under a motor that's hanging from a cherry picker
neal
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Agree. For me it's easier to pull it as a unit instead of all that time underneath. If I do them like that, I usually do the main seal and a timing chain and the cover seals. It's a good time to clean it all up and look at the core plugs.
 
please answer me about about laying under cherry picker/dangling motor while dropping pan and yanking caps. That sounds extremely dangerous. I am working by myself so I can't just put motor/tranny on floor and roll it over.
neal
 
Trying to install the oil pan in the car without knocking any of the gaskets off location while "steering" it into position is a pain in the ***...

Pull the engine and use an engine stand to work on it... You will have a better chance of getting it right and sealing it properly...

You can do it right the first time, or do it over later....
 
I am sorry,but I would not pull it yet, raise motor drop center link,glue oil pan gasket on the oil pan first let it dry over night,than some more right stuff and your good to go.Thats a lot of work just .
 
If your car has manual steering and no A/C, you can pull the motor in less than 1 hour. Do NOT remove the hood. Do NOT remove the starter. Remove torque converter bolts/bell housing bolts and place a small jack under the tranny to support it. Torque converter/starter stay with tranny. Remove carb and distributor.
If power steering, add 10 minutes. A/C offers a little more of a challenge time wise.... good luck
 
318willrun said:
pull the motor in less than 1 hour. Do NOT remove the starter. Remove torque converter bolts/bell housing bolts and place a small jack under the tranny to support it. Torque converter/starter stay with tranny. Remove carb and distributor.
If power steering, add 10 minutes. A/C offers a little more of a challenge time wise.... good luck
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An hour...........You must be able to work a lot faster than I ever could......... Starter? How do you get the shield off the bell. I think you need to pull the starter. Jack under the tranny? What I did was take a small ratchet strap, under a block under the bell, and tie it to the torsion bars on each side. That worked great.
 
67Dart273 said:
An hour...........You must be able to work a lot faster than I ever could......... Starter? How do you get the shield off the bell. I think you need to pull the starter. Jack under the tranny? What I did was take a small ratchet strap, under a block under the bell, and tie it to the torsion bars on each side. That worked great.
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Sorry, I never use the shield on my cars when I reassemble. Neither do I use the braces that go to the engine block to the tranny. I use to pull the engine out of my Dart in about 45-50 minutes....
 
67Dart273 said:
Jack under the tranny? What I did was take a small ratchet strap, under a block under the bell, and tie it to the torsion bars on each side. That worked great.
Click to expand...

great idea ... that holds the transmission in place for easy installation .
 
Neal Zimmerman said:
please answer me about about laying under cherry picker/dangling motor while dropping pan and yanking caps. That sounds extremely dangerous. I am working by myself so I can't just put motor/tranny on floor and roll it over.
neal
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NEVER put any part of yourself directly under an engine that is dangling from a cherry picker!!! If you're going to get into this - invest in an engine stand - the 4 wheeled ones are better than the three wheeled ones - but you're really going to need one.
 
67Dart273 said:
An hour...........You must be able to work a lot faster than I ever could......... Starter? How do you get the shield off the bell. I think you need to pull the starter. Jack under the tranny? What I did was take a small ratchet strap, under a block under the bell, and tie it to the torsion bars on each side. That worked great.
Click to expand...
I have two floor jacks - I used one under the trans with a piece of 2x4 on it to hold the trans up at first (taking engine out) and when reinstalling it.. I go in from the side of the car which allows me to move it left or right as well as the obvious up and/or down adjustments.
 
Raise the engine up a few inches (watch the hoses and the firewall/distributor area). Put 2x4s between motor mounts and chassis. It's not all that tough to remove the pan with this extra clearance. Assuming it is a stock pan.
 
I knew the suggestion of separating tranny from motor and putting engine on stand would be suggested. The whole idea of doing it under car was to avoid the motor/ tranny separation issue. I did that once and wiped out the tranny on fire up, i didn't do something right. After all the crap wrong I have discovered this week with this car, including an obvious motor rebuild which I cant afford, I'm just gonna junk the car.Its obvious by now I got ripped off on this car and if the motors shot (advertised as "runs great, sounds great"), and the supposed sure grip ( as advertised) either never was or it's burnt out, ( discovered sure grip lie this morning), I will assume tranny is junk too. There's a large cliff behind my shop and its going over- adios M****************R.
 
yikes - recoup some of your $$ and sell it to someone - I assure you there is someone who will want it
 
Neal Zimmerman said:
I knew the suggestion of separating tranny from motor and putting engine on stand would be suggested. The whole idea of doing it under car was to avoid the motor/ tranny separation issue. I did that once and wiped out the tranny on fire up, i didn't do something right. After all the crap wrong I have discovered this week with this car, including an obvious motor rebuild which I cant afford, I'm just gonna junk the car.Its obvious by now I got ripped off on this car and if the motors shot (advertised as "runs great, sounds great"), and the supposed sure grip ( as advertised) either never was or it's burnt out, ( discovered sure grip lie this morning), I will assume tranny is junk too. There's a large cliff behind my shop and its going over- adios M****************R.
Click to expand...

I can't tell you how many times I felt the exact same way. If you do it, take a video!
Hope things work out though.
 
You can definitely change the oilpan gasket in the car. It may be a bit more of a pain in the ***, but some folks don't have the means to pull the engine. Just raise the engine, pull what's in the way and get it done.
 
I have done it before in the car, with headers its a little more involved getting them out of the way, I didn't think it was big deal. Sealed up no leaks, that was 10 years ago
 
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