Drum to disk brake swap followup questions help

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mkingan

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Hi, this is my first drum to brake swap. working on a 65 barracuda. all parts are new and using a 73 dart as my new parts reference. i have read the other posts on this swap and the kelsey disk brake swap. still have a couple of questions that i am not sure of:
1. the bolts that are used to mount the lower ball joint to the spindle. i don't have them, i realize the existing ones are smaller from the drum setup. is this something that can be purchased at an auto parts store or home improvement store or this is a j-yard only thing?
2. caliper placement. using single piston caliper (new). no sway bar. does the caliper mount towards front or rear.. i have read both ways but don't know what is better or preferred.
3. the car has brand new a-frame bushings, ball joints, etc. i hate to rip all that out since its all new. so i read that from dr. diff i can get the upper ball joint taper adapter to keep the original a-frames and ball joints. i'd image they just slide in to take the gap up. correct?
that's it for now.. thanks in advance for the help
 
1- They are large bolts with fine thread. JY (try a 5th Ave) or Ace hardware for new is where I found them.

2- Either, but make sure your soft line will reach, and consider if you will be mounting a sway bar in the future.

3- no exp with that.
 
mkingan said:
Hi, this is my first drum to brake swap. working on a 65 barracuda. all parts are new and using a 73 dart as my new parts reference. i have read the other posts on this swap and the kelsey disk brake swap. still have a couple of questions that i am not sure of:
1. the bolts that are used to mount the lower ball joint to the spindle. i don't have them, i realize the existing ones are smaller from the drum setup. is this something that can be purchased at an auto parts store or home improvement store or this is a j-yard only thing?
2. caliper placement. using single piston caliper (new). no sway bar. does the caliper mount towards front or rear.. i have read both ways but don't know what is better or preferred.
3. the car has brand new a-frame bushings, ball joints, etc. i hate to rip all that out since its all new. so i read that from dr. diff i can get the upper ball joint taper adapter to keep the original a-frames and ball joints. i'd image they just slide in to take the gap up. correct?
that's it for now.. thanks in advance for the help
Click to expand...
Calipers can be mounted either front or rear. If you go ahead and mount rear for a future sway bar you will need longer brake lines. Like from a late 70s f body.
 
The ball joint bolts can be had at home depot or menards. They are 5/8-18 and 2 1/2- 2 3/4 long,you will have to decide what length works for you. I did have to shave the head thickness down some for clearance.
 
Sedanman said:
The ball joint bolts can be had at home depot or menards. They are 5/8-18 and 2 1/2- 2 3/4 long,you will have to decide what length works for you. I did have to shave the head thickness down some for clearance.
Click to expand...
i got this from the "how to section" for the kelsey - Hayes disk brake swap. grade-8 7/16 – 20 1.75” bolt. is that inncorrect>?
 
But your using the 73-up not the older KH set up? The bolts are different between the 2.
 
Sedanman said:
But your using the 73-up not the older KH set up? The bolts are different between the 2.
Click to expand...


Not sure of the exact sizes but there are differences. Working though this now.... But I am doing early KH onto a 72 A Body.

JW
 
The KH set up uses the smaller bolts and the 73-up use the 5/8 16 x 2.5 or 2.75
 
bkmcoolhand said:
Calipers can be mounted either front or rear. If you go ahead and mount rear for a future sway bar you will need longer brake lines. Like from a late 70s f body.
Click to expand...

If you swap the calipers be sure the bleeder is pointing up.
It doesn't work so good pointing down.
Ask me how I know.:rolleyes:
 
adriver said:
If you swap the calipers be sure the bleeder is pointing up.
It doesn't work so good pointing down.
Ask me how I know.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
so factory is them toards the front of the car not towards the back and that will work.. correct? sorry i have no references. only way i can tell what spindle is what size is the location of the caliper and where it is suppose to go front or rear on rotor
 
If you are going to run a sway bar, put your calipers at the rear with bleeder pointing up. You might also consider steel braided brake lines as the don't "swell" under extreme pressure.
 
mkingan said:
so factory is them toards the front of the car not towards the back and that will work.. correct? sorry i have no references. only way i can tell what spindle is what size is the location of the caliper and where it is suppose to go front or rear on rotor
Click to expand...
Like he says.
You are really swapping the spindles between sides which puts the calipers on the rear.
Right?
I had to do it on a B body to clear the sway bar lower control arm bracket with A body spindles.
I don't really know why you have to do it with a complete 73 A body set up.
I've got those factory set up on cars with front mount.
Really can't remember. Maybe not.
To long ago.
Haven't tried the F body spindle yet on a car.
I'm rambling.
 
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Well, i need some help.. something went wrong.. i finished the brake swap and everything looked great. its been raining for weeks here and haven't had a chance to get it out to to test it. i finally got it out and noticed the Right side wheel is tilting in at the top pretty noticeable (was hard to see in the shop with limited space) but one i got it out in a clear wider open area i really noticed it. Plus its kinda digging in\draging. Now the left side is perfect. I cannot think of anything i did different. everything is tight so nothing loose. i Never touched the torsion bars or upper control arms. They are the originals and went with the DR. Diff sleeve, Any ideas? if so do i need to adjust the control arms?
 
Yes, Upper control arms have adjustment that should correct the Camber (Tilt).
The washers have the bolt in them off center, you basically "clock" them to where you need them. That should get you on the road safely enough to get to an alignment shop to correctly align your front end.
 
belmateo said:
Yes, Upper control arms have adjustment that should correct the Camber (Tilt).
The washers have the bolt in them off center, you basically "clock" them to where you need them. That should get you on the road safely enough to get to an alignment shop to correctly align your front end.
Click to expand...
belmateo said:
Yes, Upper control arms have adjustment that should correct the Camber (Tilt).
The washers have the bolt in them off center, you basically "clock" them to where you need them. That should get you on the road safely enough to get to an alignment shop to correctly align your front end.
Click to expand...
so right inward, left outward or vice versa?
 
The two upper control arm bolts should have the heads towards each other, You will be able to see that you are moving the upper control arm towards you (pushing the top of the tire out).
Keep in mind that you are changing many things like Camber, Caster, Toe in/Toe out. This is a quick fix to get you to the alignment shop.
 
belmateo said:
The two upper control arm bolts should have the heads towards each other, You will be able to see that you are moving the upper control arm towards you (pushing the top of the tire out).
Keep in mind that you are changing many things like Camber, Caster, Toe in/Toe out. This is a quick fix to get you to the alignment shop.
Click to expand...
great thanks. i'll get out there this afternoon. I know about the alignment hopefully this can give me enough to get me to alignment shop but also test the brakes which i was heading for the first time. Now why would this need adjusted when it was not messed with?
 
If you did not change the upper control arms at all and all you did was change the spindles and brakes, something else is wrong. Can you post some pics?
 
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