Drum to disk brakes

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Wdstk@69

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Would like to convert my 1966 Plymouth Valiant from drum to disk brakes, I was told that I need to use 1973 - 1976 Chrysler products spindles, anyone know where I can locate all the parts required ?

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You CAN certainly use the later stuff, but you can also use the 65-72 stuff as well. Using the early "correct" stuff would keep the car with the small wheel bolt pattern. Very cool car!
 

I have everything we just removed from this 66 valiant. we went with a straight axle. Brakes spindles and uppers are still together one piece with hose and 3 inch studs.
 
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Hello, long-time reader and first-time messenger. I am looking to convert my front drum to disk and upgrade my front suspension on my 68 Barracuda. Does anyone recommend one kit over the other? Is Willwood the best for the price?

Appreciate the insight!!

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Contact Dr. Diff (Cass) he’ll have what you need, unless you’re in the name brand kits.

 
Look around in the threads here on this site. There is plenty of info from people.
For a basic answer there are the kits including Dr Diff. But also LEED and SSBC.
Dr Diff provides a spindle but that requires the use of a later (73-76) upper control arm and ball joint.
LEED and SSBC use an adapter to mount a mustang Kelsey Hayes caliper to a 10 inch drum spindle. They also use the mustang rotor. SSBC still offers the rotor drilled for Small bolt pattern.
Finally you can also find an original Kelsey Hayes system. Watch the adds here as well as eBay they pop up pretty often.
 
And before someone mentions the adapter sleeve for the ball joint, I don’t recommend it because the ball joint is meant to wedge into the spindle. Adding the sleeve adds another point of flex
 
And before someone mentions the adapter sleeve for the ball joint, I don’t recommend it because the ball joint is meant to wedge into the spindle. Adding the sleeve adds another point of flex

DoctorDiff also sells the ball joint adaptors for his kits for folks that want to retain their small ball joint UCA's.

I also don't like the adaptor there, BUT, it really isn't a point of flex. It's a taper lock, just like the ball joint, and functionally it isn't going to add any flex and it isn't any less strong than using the smaller ball joint to begin with.

It does cause some issues with how ball joint nut engages, and that's a better reason not to like them. But realistically people have been running them for quite awhile now, so from a safety perspective I'm not going to say they don't work or will cause problems. Me, I'd still switch to the larger ball joint UCA's.
 
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