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6pk2goDemon

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I'm sure this has been asked 1000 times before and I apologize for being lazy and not using the "search" button. :homework:

Should I use cork or rubber for valve cover gaskets on a small block?

What is your choice for sealant?
 
Which side should you put the PCV valve on?
I tend to use the cork ones alot. Although, on my stroker motor, because of having to adjust the valves occasionally, I use rubber.
 
Cork compresses way better with blue high temp silicone.Used the rubber last time leak just a tad.O ps not a dump question at all.
 
Cork FelPros, no sealant.

Ditto for my daily driver.

MP rubber steel inners for the serious machine to create terror in the hood.
I use them since I'm in and out of the engine alot more than as by way of compare to the street engine, which is never.
 
My teacher told us once that there was no such thing as a stupid question, just stupid people. Neither of which are the case here. I like rubber gaskets too. :)
 
I prefer the extra thick Fel Pro cork ones glued onto the valve covers with some GE silicone that can only be found at a pro/stock engine building shop here in town, always hang around and wait to listen to one rip on the dyno hehehe.
 
Randy, I think I've scraped a couple hundred pairs of your old valve covers out getting ready to work on them. Now I know who to blame for all those scrapes and broken nails. LOL
 

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Keep asking, cuz I read all these that say dumb question and learn something everytime!
"-)
 
Which side should you put the PCV valve on?
I tend to use the cork ones alot. Although, on my stroker motor, because of having to adjust the valves occasionally, I use rubber.

My PCV is on the driver side. Guess it depends on the style of valve covers you're using.
 
I use just the regular rubber ones on my M/T covers with no leaks in 9 years, but when i switched to the stock covers i went with the cork/rubber. i also have a set of the moroso steel cores but they don't work with stock covers and they also have to be trimmed to clear the rocker stands. depends on what cover your going with, with the stock covers and cork/rubber i coat one side of the gasket and the v/c with 3m adhesive and set it down so it stays in place and i put a very thin coat of axle grease on the v/c surface of the head.
 
Thanks for everyone's input. If I've read all the responses correctly :-k, it looks like:

7 votes cork

3 votes rubber

I guess I should have done a poll....LOL

I have cork installed now and am chasing a leak on the passenger side only. I believe this is the last little leak under this beast (Hopefully) :). Pulled the leaky valve cover last weekend and added some Permatex High Tack Sealant, but it's still leaking a bit.

I'm going to pull it again and take a good look at the VC lip as it may be tweaked some and then try a new cork gasket. We'll see.
 
stamped steel covers right?
 

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I like cork and coat the head side of them with a layer of grease.

Check the cover itself to see if any of the bolts have pulled the edge beyond square. Usually happens on stamped steel when they are overtightened.
 
Sorry, I should have mentioned the V/C are old DC chrome ones, so yes stamped steel. I bought some FelPro cork gaskets today and just finished cleaning the gunk off both surfaces. I believe I will try what EL5 and crackedback mentioned using the Permatex sealant on the VC gasket and a little grease on the head side.

Fingers crossed, this car is close to being done :rolleyes:. May even be able to rest the jack stands for a little while!!
 

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Check the cover itself to see if any of the bolts have pulled the edge beyond square. Usually happens on stamped steel when they are overtightened.

I don't quite understand your terminology, but think I have found an issue with one of the bolt holes. It's raised up just a tad, and possibly enough to cause the leak.

What is the best way to straighten without damaging the chrome?

Any input is most appreciated :-D.
 
I think he just meant the stamped steel bends if ever over tightened. You can GENTLY reshape them. I usually use my smallest ball pean hammer or a good body hammer. With any body work (which is what your doing here) you use the hammer to ask the metal to return to its original shape. DO NOT beat it into submission. I have used a piece of wood behind it covered with a clean shop rag to keep from marring the surface. Best advise is being gentle. You can always increase force if it doesnt respond but too hard can cause more damage.
 
I think he just meant the stamped steel bends if ever over tightened. You can GENTLY reshape them. I usually use my smallest ball pean hammer or a good body hammer. With any body work (which is what your doing here) you use the hammer to ask the metal to return to its original shape. DO NOT beat it into submission. I have used a piece of wood behind it covered with a clean shop rag to keep from marring the surface. Best advise is being gentle. You can always increase force if it doesnt respond but too hard can cause more damage.

sounds like my last marriage.....
 
Thx for the body work lesson sawdoff. My skills in this area totally suck and
this POS is still leaking dang it :angry7::angry5::banghead:.

Can I try to seal it with "Right Stuff" instead of the permatex?
 
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Can I try to seal it with "Right Stuff" instead of the permatex?


Oh Cheryl, I'm so glad I took a lunch break right now. That post made my day!!! Hilarious!

I suppose some Right Stuff would be a preferable alternative to red or green Loctite. :-D :-D :-D
 
Silicone such as Permatex and the like is not designed to be used WITH any type of gasket. Silicone is designed to BE the gasket. Putting silicone on any type of gasket will increase its chances of slipping out of whatever you're trying to seal. Seen it happen a lot. I like to use 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive to glue gaskets in place. That's all you need is just something to HOLD the gasket in place. The gasket itself doesn't need any additional sealing help. As to the question about what type of gasket to use, I like the high quality reuseable rubber gaskets found on the later model stuff. They have steel reinforcing rings to prevent overtightening. I've been lookin for some for a big block, but I don't think anybody makes them.
 
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