Duplicolor Rim Paint (graphite) is a Pain

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dibbons

dibbons

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I could not get a wet coat with a spray can of graphite rim paint (Duplicolor). I don't know how much closer I can get with the spray can. I will need to sand with 400/600 and try again. Those flakes (metallic?) seem to come out dry and fly all over the place. The propellant is either really weak or I don't know what I am doing.

Not only that, but I think this graphite is a little too dark for the rallye wheels, the ten holes don't really have the same impact as they did with the flat silver. Oh well, that color will have to do for now.
 
Is it just one can you're having an issue with? That's what I used to paint the entire grille on my car. The metallic flakes do get everywhere, but you shouldn't have an issue with a wet coat. I used it on my wheel centers too, although I used a lighter silver for that. The graphite will be darker than OE for the rallye centers, that's actually why I used it for my grille, give it a different look.

Anyway, if it's just the one can it may just be a flaw with the nozzle, I'd try a different one and see if that helps. I can't remember which "style" the nozzle was on mine, round or fan. I may have changed it out if it was a round, the "fan" style works better for larger areas like the grille.

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It's a fan style nozzle. I purchased two cans but only used one (still quite a bit left over). Maybe I will try the unopened can the second time.
 
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I used a combination of products/steps. Detergent wash, black disc paint stripper wheel (for rust on inside of rim), naval jelly (everywhere), extra fine steel wool, orange fiber loose paint remover attachment (to remove dry naval jelly), Ospho, Rust Oleum rusty metal primer (red oxide) by brush (inside of rim), Rust Oleum gray primer spray (outside of wheel-both sides), Duplicolor Graphite (for rims) and Duplicolor clear sprays. I used a discarded bathroom vanity sink and concrete block as a paint stand (see last two fotos). One rim was heavily rust-pitted on the inside because a tube was used in that case and it must have trapped moisture.

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In my past experience with flake paints you really need a clear to make that paint sparkle! Duplicolor should have a clear for that. I have shot my clear straight to wet paint to get the grab. To avoid lift. I have had no issues with this approach. I too have had that dulk dry finish with the paint no clear. Hope this helps.:)
 
I would shoot 3 coats of clear heavy to get glass like coverage. Just need to be careful to see how paint lays down and avoid drips. If desired wait a little for clear to "skin" and shoot more clear like say 2 more coats or if your brave 3! Will get a sweet glass like finish!:thumbsup:
 
I have a clear coat over the base coat in the fotos. I did not spray more than one because I did not want to overdo the paint thickness. If I do a little 600 sanding, would I need more color coat or just more clear coat? Thank you.
 
Clear needs to build some to give you the wet look you desire. Otherwise the finish will never look right. Just my 2 cents.
 
When i put my 360 together i shot the oil pan and valve covers with about 6 coats of high heat engine clear over red. People that saw it swore it was shot with a gun! They were amazed it was rattle spray!:D motor in car 8 years plus now paint still holding good. Prep is the key also. So put some more clear. Try it you will see a difference!:)
 
I guess I shouldn't complain, all the scratches from the former trim rings are now covered up. Only have one trim ring and one center cap, so I will just leave that stuff off now.
 
With most of the rattle can clear coats if you go too thick they look yellow. I didn't do any clear on my grille or my center caps, just screws things up later when you want to deal with a scratch or blemish. I just shined it up a little with a polishing wax, the mildly abrasive stuff meant to remove swirls, etc. No clear needed.
 
dibbons said:
The way clear peels off on my daily driver's, I was hesitant to spray the clear on too thick.
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That crap is water based on the OEM's paint for eco reasons. Good oil based clear should be very hearty. I agree on the multi coats of clear. I painted a pulley with I Harvester red (close enough) and then hit it with a coat of clear. It looked satin, worse than the paint alone. Now Im out of clear so Ill hit it again when I buy some, whats a good rattle can clear?
 
Look up automotive touch up.com clear around 8 bucks a can. Or higher end stuff in a can is spray max 2k urerhane clear coat is 15 bucks. This one is @ repaintsupply.com.
 
Final follow-up: I did not purchase any higher-end products (doing this in Mexico). I did wet sand the rough until smooth in short order with 400 grit. I did not spray any more color coat (graphite). With the 1/2 can of matte clear (Duplicolor) I had leftover, I sprayed two more coats of clear after the wet sand and wiping down with wax & grease remover. The wheels now appear smooth, not grainy, and not very shiny due to the matte type clear, which is what I wanted. Just hope mounting the tires does not scratch the rims up too bad.

End of story (except I have two rallye rims left to do). And a collective thanks to those who took time to post here.
 
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