Duster front drum wheel bearing R&R

[AlaskaJeff]

The new bearings come with races, do I need to change them out with the bearings? Is it a bad idea to keep the old races in and put new bearings on top of them?
ALSO IF I change out the races, can you beat them out/in OR do they need to be pressed?

 

[4spdragtop]

I just did this on my disc brakes. I would replace both race and bearing. They are "matched" and available in sets (bearing/race) or individually. I used a brass punch to remove the races and used a press to reinstall.
Put the races in the freezer 4-6 hours prior to install, makes it waaayyy easier.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Plenty of people have replaced just the bearings on the old races through the years and it's been just fine. I've done it myself. In the past. But, IMO, it's not the best idea. Steve is dead right. However, they are not matched when they are new......they are what I call "neutral". In other words, they have no wear pattern. The old bearings and races however, are matched to each other. It is best to replace bearings and races together. Some bearings and races are not available as a set, you you have to purchase separately. Most automotive bearings are available in sets, but there's always that exception. As easy as they are to change out, replace the races, too.

 

[Donny DartO]

I just did this on my 64 Valiant wagon, and I too was tempted to keep the old races in place, since it's probably the most time consuming part of the job for me, but I was taught just what Rusty said. The old races have been worn in with the old bearings and now don't match the new bearings perfectly, so I would replace them. And It's definitely not a must but I like having the tool that makes it easiest, and for only about 30 or 40 bucks you can get a race installer set online, then you just tap the races in place, instead of needing a press. Also, I thought to myself when installing the spindle nut, what's the best way to achieve the right torque? These bearings need some preload right? Is there a torque spec? My method has just been to spin the hub around while tightening it, feel for some resistance but not too much, and install the lock and cotter pin. I haven't had issues doing it this way, but I'm always interested in knowing the correct way, or even just a better way.

 

[cudamark]

I never torque or preload front wheel bearings to any great degree. They seem to last a lot longer if you don't. My method is to take up all the slack while spinning the drum, then back off the nut, and then hand tighten it only. Line up the cage, drop the cotter pin in and your done.