Duster's next.....

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Gonna make a 1/4 mile run with just the gear upgrade ?
not the plans at this point. I don't think the gears alone on this set up would be all that much of a gain. Maybe a couple tenths? This engine shifts at 5k rpms. Some may believe going from 3.23's to 3.91's would be a half second or better. I doubt that very much on this current set up
 
In the meantime, while waiting for parts........

......So after putting fresh gas in the Duster, I went out of town this evening, as it cooled off a bit. I did a hard core "as if I was racing" run. This car dead hooked, unbelievable. Not even a chirp. This car is quick for what it is! Man, I went from 0 to (shhhhh) very very quickly. This car is a lot of fun!! (why did I let it sit for 2 years???)
 
Some parts came in the last couple of days. Kevco pan, pickup tube, and stud are all here. I'll shoot a video showing more detail on the pan, which I think is a bang for the buck considering today's prices. Still waiting on more parts, but hopefully we'll move right along once it's all here. As always, my back is against the wall for time. My job gets in the way. Wait! That's what pays for all this... LOL
 
How good is the fit in the car, with wheel and tire combos?
Great. I like the '65-67 B-body better than the A-body rear end in Dusters. Takes away the "rabbit tracks" look. Don't have to change the leaf perch location either. I do oval the hole about 1/4" in on each side, but wouldn't have to. I have P235/60r15 ET streets on the back with a slightly deep-dish rim.
 
Here is the pan we will be using. Kevco M306. Stock appearing but has the baffles, crank scrapper ... nicely made! I also bought the pickup tube and stud. We actually bought the pan and pickup tube through CNC Motorsports out of Brookings, South Dakota. 185 bucks through them. Kevko was 199 if I remember correctly.
 
Great. I like the '65-67 B-body better than the A-body rear end in Dusters. Takes away the "rabbit tracks" look. Don't have to change the leaf perch location either. I do oval the hole about 1/4" in on each side, but wouldn't have to. I have P235/60r15 ET streets on the back with a slightly deep-dish rim.
Gonna turn some more rpm and/ or switch to a taller tire?

May not be needed (taller tire) for your new setup?
 
Gonna turn some more rpm and/ or switch to a taller tire?

May not be needed (taller tire) for your new setup?
Current engine shifts at 5000 - 5200 rpm range. Engine going in will shift at 5500 - 5600 rpm range. Nothing crazy. As long as it keeps hooking up, I'll not spend money on tires till they are wore out
 

It may need the extra 500 rpm in the quarter with those short tires. Looking forward to it.
They came with 3.91's from the factory in some of these cars with 14" tires, and I think every one of them would peg a 120 mph, so I'm hoping I'm ok
 
If it does you're not making enough power. :D
What is the range of convertor stall.
Trust me, there was some tuning to the "car" to get it to hook. The converter stall right now is stock, probably 2100. What I'm waiting on might be slightly different... :rolleyes:
 
Here is the pan we will be using. Kevco M306. Stock appearing but has the baffles, crank scrapper ... nicely made! I also bought the pickup tube and stud. We actually bought the pan and pickup tube through CNC Motorsports out of Brookings, South Dakota. 185 bucks through them. Kevko was 199 if I remember correctly.

I have this pan, have not used it yet, very nice pans, i do run their 6 qt pan on my Duster.
 
Here is the pan we will be using. Kevco M306. Stock appearing but has the baffles, crank scrapper ... nicely made! I also bought the pickup tube and stud. We actually bought the pan and pickup tube through CNC Motorsports out of Brookings, South Dakota. 185 bucks through them. Kevko was 199 if I remember correctly.


I bought the next model down for my 318 LA. It was a bit filthy, but for the price, I think it's a good deal. Also, clean the heck out of the pickup tube, it may have some greasy filings in it.

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Man, some things are just high. I was considering a Promatic II shift (by Hurst), but with tax it's close to 500. I'm not big on cable shifts anyways, personally I like levers/rods. If I go the cable shift route, I want it to be the Promatic II though... We'll see....
 
Man, some things are just high. I was considering a Promatic II shift (by Hurst), but with tax it's close to 500. I'm not big on cable shifts anyways, personally I like levers/rods. If I go the cable shift route, I want it to be the Promatic II though... We'll see....

Are you keeping the forward pattern VB? Is the Hurst a rachet shifter, or gate type?
 
Man, some things are just high. I was considering a Promatic II shift (by Hurst), but with tax it's close to 500. I'm not big on cable shifts anyways, personally I like levers/rods. If I go the cable shift route, I want it to be the Promatic II though... We'll see....
I was alwas suprised that more Mopar heads didn't modiify a Slap Stick into other cars. What a great shifter.
 
RMVB!!!!

I once used a B&M rachet shifter in a dakota, I made a little bracket out of angle iron to hold the shift cable on the rear of the shifter, and a bracket that mounted on the rear part of the trans pan. There was no way to clear the headers with a shift cable going toward the front. The rear mount setup worked well.

That being said, I would be reluctant to modify a $500 dollar shifter, if I had a $500 dollar shifter..
 
RMVB!!!!

I once used a B&M rachet shifter in a dakota, I made a little bracket out of angle iron to hold the shift cable on the rear of the shifter, and a bracket that mounted on the rear part of the trans pan. There was no way to clear the headers with a shift cable going toward the front. The rear mount setup worked well.

That being said, I would be reluctant to modify a $500 dollar shifter, if I had a $500 dollar shifter..
headers and pipes are the reasons I hate cables. Also, rods and swivels are almost bullet proof.
 
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