E58 400 plus HP Dart sport build

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Again thanks for the advice all jumped and explained it really helped a lot. I would not have done this in just over a year with FABO great group of folks appreciate it. Been following builds here since 2010.
 
They are true 1.6 ratio roller rockers red and blue in picture. Stock are actually below 1.5. checking cam spec valve lift I'm now 526 intake and 540 exhaust. This cam is @107 rather than 110 so has overlap. For sure need to go to 3.73 rear gear. I fixed the tachometer tonight pulled out of loom and wrapped in foil tape. Also put that inside a 1/4 vacuum hose ran through one of the plugs it used for firewall insulation. Then checked no RFI issues tach is steady at idle. Speedometer same issue fixed tomorrow. Ran it up first gear 4500 holy cow and into 2nd before I chickened out. She is ready to go for sure. Just needs miles like you said rumble fish. Temps still right at 190 or lower very pleased with AC I needed it down low Oklahoma is HOT.

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Here’s the thing, there are several companies that offer a 1.6 roller rocker but they do not all exact lift the valve a true 1.6 mathematically. Or in actuality. Is the differences in the contact point of the roller tip the push rod contact point and the frog buckram point and the differences between them, additionally, pushrod length also has a play in this. Double check to see what your actual lift is.
 
Here’s the thing, there are several companies that offer a 1.6 roller rocker but they do not all exact lift the valve a true 1.6 mathematically. Or in actuality. Is the differences in the contact point of the roller tip the push rod contact point and the frog buckram point and the differences between them, additionally, pushrod length also has a play in this. Double check to see what your actual lift is.
According to build sheet and what I and builder did it is as specified a 1.6 ratio. The stock push rods were short so they were changed out and measured for correct length and what we wanted to accomplish. Would not have used them anyway as pretty old as they were old tired looking rocker assembly.
 
According to build sheet and what I and builder did it is as specified a 1.6 ratio.
What is the cam card saying for it’s lift?
The stock push rods were short so they were changed out and measured for correct length and what we wanted to accomplish.
Of course, there’s no other way. ;)
Would not have used them anyway as pretty old as they were old tired looking rocker assembly.
As in the old/OE rockers?


Not breaking balls or anything of the like, but…..
Your diction isn’t very conducive for easy reading.
 
Update on progress and let's get a why in there. Why did he build this car and this engine this way. Well what he thought to be true what he thought he knew hahaha.
So what did we learn. Be patient and not every you read from manufacturer is remotely correct mwhahahahaha. Example 13 inches of vacuum on a high lift cam. Ummm no lmao try like 7.....at 1000 rpm and out of lope land .

Not every thing is GD power valve say power valve I will hunt you down lol for the love of gawd if you comment at least make your gibberish better than mine. As said before I'm not great at explaining as Im usually pissed by the time I explain where I'm at. But yes I'm having a lot of fun.

What would I do differently. Well less cam I was talked into this. I would do less cam for more for more friendly tuning. I will be going to manual brakes or a vacuum pump. Less CFM carburator would follow would not need for the cam. Stroker kit to make up for cam as would have cost less. Less cam with my combo and more compression would have been same HP or close to it.

Buying parts then buying other parts to replace what I didn't like after the fact. Nothing is cheap do your research and reviews.

Anything stock under the hood that had hoses and uses vacuum if you change alot go radical ditch it you will be sorry if you don't. Vacuum secondary waste of time on lopey cam and power brakes. Not saying you can't is it worth the effort lol.

So now your thinking what's his plan power brakes can stay there usable not great. Vacuum secondary is gone plate in it's place. Changing to progression ignition eventually.

So all that's said is Vince enjoying the drive well second gear drop around 6200 is amazing on a 2.94 gear. And third right after with a 727 is a lot of fun. Rumblefish360 is right a high compression/pressure motor is stupid addictive (even on the low side! I know I know I could have done things differently) Plan to get heads ported these can flow close to 300 cfm. Change transmission to a ZF 8hp70.

What's it like to drive it's a GD blast and I can straight up frighten friends and chase modern cars off. I'm guessing good numbers qtr hooks up real well gears will maybe make that harder to hook for now leaving it as is good match for trans change. I can't deal with 3000 at 70 plus mph hell no drives me nuts. Not to loud just wear and tear and gas mileage. Gas mileage yeah it has none. It does get to zero to 60 in a low 5 average few times was better but I was really in it .... Qtr no idea no track yet not really interested it's quick will get better with transmission.

Now call me nuts this is what my car did what I observed. Is it a good build with a XE268 cam this build would be great for a beginner. The cam I chose is great for what I wanted but it is not forgiving. Lots of extra work should have stuck to mild plan.

Last thing stay away from dumbasses.com they are crazy stupid.....they tell lies!
 
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First oil change went well torn open oil filter nothing found. Observation Pro-form restamped Mopar emblem valve covers are not Fing tall. If you buy them both vent holes using a 1.6 roller rocker will smack and you will have to take off then trim them cut your finger with die grinder. ***** and then clean them up and use another new set of valve cover gaskets and chew *** on Summit. Thought you should know ..grin!
 
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how much initial timing do you have on the engine?

I know you have a thumpr cam is it the small, mid or large one. If someone told you you would get 13in of vacuum with the mid or large one, yeah not gonna happen at a typical idle level. The large one is 240+ at .050, not "idle" or vacuum friendly.

Have fun with it. Good to read it is broken in and running strong.
 
how much initial timing do you have on the engine?

I know you have a thumpr cam is it the small, mid or large one. If someone told you you would get 13in of vacuum with the mid or large one, yeah not gonna happen at a typical idle level. The large one is 240+ at .050, not "idle" or vacuum friendly.

Have fun with it. Good to read it is broken in and running strong.
Large thumper cam and things have been changed were going to manual choke that's solved and the why. Getting rid of the vacuum advance on the distributor got a plate to install. It's driving great it really does not need a choke but since it's there manual if I need it just in case cable will be there. I changed the power valve 3.5 rear jets to 84. A/F sensor reads right around 11 to 11.5 idle but will adjust the idle metering screws out a smidge now. Driving A/F sensor is showing 11.5 to 13.5 it's a good average of 12.5. Power valve was 6.5 not bad but the 3.5 is a huge success. Matches the vacuum now of cam. Timing I'm at 18 degrees and total timing at 35. It's very snappy now and driving great best I have tuned it since I got her up and running. We're I to purchase carburetor again I would have gone non choke 750/850. Distributor would have had no vacuum advance from the start. Lessons learned and I can argue why you don't need those things on a hopped up strip street car driven on cruise in and for fun.
 
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