Eagle Cast cranks - QA?

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Moparmal

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Ive just got word back from my machinist that my Eagle 4" cast crank needs indexing.

Has anyone else had this issue with Eagle cast cranks?

Also interested if anyone had the same issue with SCAT or Eagle forged?,

Thanks for any input.
 
Sorry I don't have an answer but did he say how bad it was off Mal? I ask because I have one I'm about to put in a stroker I'm doing. I never had the indexing checked. Ya got me nervous.
 
If the keyway is off then this will offset the cam and might require an adjustable cam gear. If the crank throws are off among cylinders then, the the result will be timing variations between cylinders. This could cause all sorts of problems. To correct with machining, you will end up with undersized journals.
 
There are very few alternatives to these chinese crankshafts these days, unfortunatly, and my experience last year with a 440 forged crank was that the keyway was machined in the wrong place. You did the smart thing having it checked, we can't take anything for granted anymore.
 
My machine shop wouldn't use an Eagle crank. I bought a Scat stroker kit and everthing was really nice. Should be a good running 414 motor. Can't wait to put it in my Dart.
 
Apparently some are 10th out and some 15th - so to achieve a correct index they all have to be taken down 30th - does that sound right?

I understand indexing brings the rod throw to an even height but lIke I say, Im not really clued in to the whys and wherefores - just that it needs indexing.

Im just wondering if this is "par for the course" with Eagles?,

and also if its a blue printing process that people dont do when they build a trailer motor?
 
66dartman said:
There are very few alternatives to these chinese crankshafts these days, unfortunatly, and my experience last year with a 440 forged crank was that the keyway was machined in the wrong place. You did the smart thing having it checked, we can't take anything for granted anymore.
Click to expand...

The Eagle stuff is chinese? Wow, you learn something new every day! Thanks for the info.
 
No, that is not part for the course. I square deck and align hone all my builds. I test every piston for deck height because I run tight quench in most of them. I've never seen one off more than .003 measuring that way and some of that could have been the rod lengths... But, that's by mocking up and measuring. If your guy put it in a crank grinder and checked it, my impression is there's more wrong with it than just indexing. Any chance of getting another one "down under"? I wouldnt want to have to turn it that far right off the bat. Seems some refund or repalcement is in order there.
 
If it's out .030 it may be beyond fixing. Someone really good may be able to weld it up and grind back to spec, but that's not acceptable for a new part. Makes me wonder what other manufacturing operations they may have called "good enough".
 
I ask again, are all the Eagle cranks and rods of chinese manufacture? If so I guess I will go with Callies or Crower when the time comes.
 
Moper - I havn't been very clear - its not .030 out in deck height.

Apparently it needs the journals taken down .030...does that sound right?
 
No, I understood you. My point was I measured the two Eagles I've used against the deck that I knew was right. I dont feel that having to turn a journal down .015 per side is acceptable from anyone. My concern is that your are in Australia.
 
I ask again, 3rd time, are all the Eagle cranks and rods of chinese manufacture? If so I guess I will go with Callies or Crower when the time comes.
 
Id say its a fair guess that they are all made in China.

Moper - Yep, thats the problem, I cna bring stuff in no problem, but sending it back is always a PITA, especially when the sellers have a "buyer pays shipping" policy on returns.

Mancini and summit have always been pretty good about doing what they can, but by the time I organise it all and wait on another crank it'll be XMAS.

Ill know more this afternoon when I speak with my builder.
 
skybolt said:
I ask again, 3rd time, are all the Eagle cranks and rods of chinese manufacture? If so I guess I will go with Callies or Crower when the time comes. Are you guys black balling me? If so I will leave this forum and never return!
Click to expand...

I personally don't know for sure so I didn't answer. Maybe that's the case with others here also.
 
skybolt said:
I ask again, 3rd time, are all the Eagle cranks and rods of chinese manufacture? If so I guess I will go with Callies or Crower when the time comes. Are you guys black balling me? If so I will leave this forum and never return![/quote

Yes.

No black balling,but where else will you go?

your friends at A bodies love ya man!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
 
Back on topic - seems the journals are out between 15-20th -

Is this normal?...I'd always though most cranks needed indexing?
 
skybolt said:
I ask again, 3rd time, are all the Eagle cranks and rods of chinese manufacture? If so I guess I will go with Callies or Crower when the time comes.
Click to expand...

Yes, as are the ones from Scat. I would not be suprised if the cast cranks from Callies and Crower aren't too.
 
It seems I still got it wrong - about the crank is 35th out across the journals, resulting in it needing indexing to .020th under to correct it.

My main reason for asking was to establish if this sort of variation is to be expected from Eagle parts, as I might have called Summit and discussed a return on the item.

Seems its fixable and that indexing is not uncommon - so Ill run with it.
 
You mena it's got taper of .0035 accross the journal? That is unacceptable. I typically measure taper around .0005-.0015. That's normal for a Chinese finished crank of anyone's brand and any cubic inch (IE big blocks too). Zero is "right". If the clearance accross the journal does not exceed .002 on the mains and .0025 on the rods, I'll run it with that much taper as noemally it's not every journal that is the high end of the spec. What I'm not sure about is why they would have to index grind it to .020 under. Seems like if .0035 is the problem, center grinding it to .010 under would be fine.
Sorry Sky, didn't mean to dis you. I thought that was already answered...
 
No not a taper - the variation is 35th across all the journals - and it will take a 20th index grind to rectify the variations.......thats about the only way I can describe it.
 
I'm assuming you mean 3 and one half thou. That's .0035. Not 35 tenthousanths which is .00035. or 35 thousanths which is .035. Taper is a variation of dimension accross the journal. Each journal is it's own beastie. I have a hard time seeing how it needs the .020 indexing grind. If it was .035" off, offset grinding .020 could fix it but add stroke. But is it was of .035 there would be a HUGE issue with the finish sizing and definately be Eagle's problem. I apologize Mal, I'm having a hard time seeing how it can be of .0035 and need .010 of material cut off any direction. Any chance of posting a pic or diagram of where the issue is?
 
I've cobbled together a craptastic Micro$oft Paint diagram for reference, as I'm having a hard time visualizing which direction the journals are off and by how much.
Fine print: This craptastic illustration is over-simplified for legibility purposes

Journal_offset.JPG

Journal_offset.JPG
 
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