Eagle cast steel cranks

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63SplitWindow

63SplitWindow

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Looking for some feedback on Eagle cast steel crankshafts. I'm looking to build a max HP 408 stroker and was curious what kind of compression and power these things can handle.
I'm prepared to go the forged steel route but it would be interesting to know the limits of each
 
I don’t know why anyone bothers with cast cranks. That’s stepping over donuts to pick up dog turds.

Buy once, cry once.
 
As I understand it, Eagle makes a cast steel crank which is supposed to be superior to a cast iron crank.
But how much better is it?
 
I disagree that they are stronger than a Chrysler nodular iron crankshaft. Maybe stronger than a crappy grey iron Chevy crank.
 
Scat cast is around 500-550 hp max. Then add/subtract contributing factors: traction, gear, manual trans, stall….

Eagle cast seems like 450-500 but some have cracked them at less HP. Most reported 4” stroker cracks have been from Eagle cast. Personally, I wouldn’t touch a Eagle cast.

I have a Scat cast. I’m not max HP. I’m somewhere 425-475. If I decided to run 500+ HP: the compression, pistons, heads, cam, etc need to change. Might as well start with new motor and forged crank and leave this one together.
 
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63SplitWindow said:
What kind of race motor can you build with a 3.79 crank?
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What ever you want. At one time I had an X block that would go 4.145 so I was going to take it 4.125 and use a 3.79 crank.

That’s 406 inches and I was going to shift it at 8k IF I could get enough induction on it.

Then I quit racing and sold both X blocks and a T/A block I had, all my W2/5 junk, tunnel rams etc.
 
Rat Bastid said:
What ever you want. At one time I had an X block that would go 4.145 so I was going to take it 4.125 and use a 3.79 crank.

That’s 406 inches and I was going to shift it at 8k IF I could get enough induction on it.

Then I quit racing and sold both X blocks and a T/A block I had, all my W2/5 junk, tunnel rams etc.
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(Last sentence)That sounds like dipping donuts in dog turds then eating it.
 
I agree spend the money once on a forged crank. I wish to make clear, I have no experience with either the Eagle or Scat cast steel cranks, however, every issue I have ever heard of was with an Eagle cast crank.

Scat did make the Mopar performance cranks, both cast and forged as I understand it. Many of the Mopar forged cranks are 1053 steel vs the now common and stronger 4340. Never heard of a 1053 crank failure though.

I also like the 3.79 crank, unless you have a wicked set of heads, most 4" crank deals are done by 6000-6200 RPM.

Also depends if street or strip engine.
 
What's the cast steel POS cost? 400? You can get a forged crank for what? 700 give or take? Kinda a no brainer. Just save a little longer.
 
RustyRatRod said:
What's the cast steel POS cost? 400? You can get a forged crank for what? 700 give or take? Kinda a no brainer. Just save a little longer.
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I agree, my opinion is build the best shortblock you can afford, even if you have to sacrifice on the heads. Head can then be updated at time budget allows, bottom end not so easy.
 
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