Early 318 blocks

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RustyRatRod said:
No it's not. If you have the storage space, it wouldn't be a bad idea to start a collection, IMO, of everything you can find.
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Lol, we think alike Rusty. So far as "complete engines in storage I have a 73 360, 2x91 360s, a 90 360, 73 340, and 68 440 TNT. All of these are complete down to belts pulleys and hoses. Space isn't an issue when your friend owns the local wrecking yard.
 
cpearce said:
Lol, we think alike Rusty. So far as "complete engines in storage I have a 73 360, 2x91 360s, a 90 360, 73 340, and 68 440 TNT. All of these are complete down to belts pulleys and hoses. Space isn't an issue when your friend owns the local wrecking yard.
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It's a good think I'm not into drugs, lol. The Mopar addiction is so strong I couldn't afford drugs.
 
I want to start finding all makes from about 55 to 80. Whether good engines or just cores. ....and I got the room and I don't have a salvage yard. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well, as more than one person has stated, it's not a bad thing to do, as long as you cover all the bases with good prep work, including sonic testing. As long as the cylinders are centered in the casting good, the water jackets will probably be thick enough.

One thing I have read.......and @krazykuda can probably confirm this, since he has worked for Chrysler, the "dash" blocks are not as good......and the higher the "dash number" is supposed to mean that's how many batches were used in a typical mold. In other words, an engine with a "-1"after the "318" casting in the block is "supposedly" better than one with a higher dash number. The later dash numbers were supposedly more prone to core shift.

At least that's what I've heard and read for years. Karl will know for sure, as he worked in the engine department. But, even with a low dash number......or not one at all, you still should sonic test before you bore that far. That's a BIG cut.

As long as everything checks out good, have at it.
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I'm not sure the dash number is the way to tell... The casting numbers are so they can tell what cavity/mold/core boxes that were used to cast the blocks... In case there was a problem identified after the casting process, they can identify what mold or cores were involved... The variation can come from how well the pieces of the mold are fit together before casting and that varies from run to run...
 
I sonic tested several 318 blocks here in Australia,some late 60s,some mid 70s and none of them were anywhere near as thick compared to the 360s i tested so i ended up going 408 stroker.

Some i actually binned after storing them for many years as there was only 1.5 to 2mm thickness in some places (60 to 80 thou i think this equates to.)
 
Years ago I have had a few 318s bored to 4.04. Back then nobody was testing any bores. My blocks were 68 and 69. 1 always ran a little too warm for my liking, but it made many trouble free miles. Kim
 
Whats the point really. Its not like an engine needs a 4" bore to make power. A 0.030" equals 323 and 0.090" equals 333. Unless your trying to sqeeze a 2.08 or 2.10 valve I see no need to push it. Even then look for a 340 block.
 
273 said:
Whats the point really. Its not like an engine needs a 4" bore to make power. A 0.030" equals 323 and 0.090" equals 333. Unless your trying to sqeeze a 2.08 or 2.10 valve I see no need to push it. Even then look for a 340 block.
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I guess the only point would be if you wanted a 4" arm and all you had was a 318. But I am like you. I would look for a 340 or 360 at that point. Although the 340s are getting scarce and stupid high, 360s are still plentiful and cheap.

I GUESS the point of the thread is, that while it ain't the best idea, a 4" plus bore 318 IS possible. .....in SOME cases.
 
Well now I have to go check my 318 stash..... I want to convert my new (to me) 66 B-Cuda over to a V-8. I have the original, unmolested 69 318, from my 69 B-Cuda, that I am going to warm over a little. Its complete carb to oil pan. I havn't figured out how much to warm it up yet. I havn't done an engine since the 90s The 69 ran real good when pulled.
I also have a 70s something, truck 318, carb to pan also. A scrap yard gave me the engine years ago, LOL.
I have made some progress..... I bought a Sealed Power #260-1153 Gasket set, for small block, from Summit.

barracudadave67
 
What about going to a 4.07 bore, anybody hear of that happening? i have an early 318 block and some nice .30 over 340 pistons i would like to use.
 
65Vsignet said:
What about going to a 4.07 bore, anybody hear of that happening? i have an early 318 block and some nice .30 over 340 pistons i would like to use.
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LMAO! I doubt it BUT anytime you start boring a block you should KNOW exactly where you stand before you do anything even if it is a stock bore to start with.

Take your block down to your machinist and have it sonic check even before you clean it. Then you’ll both know what can and can not be done. This will save a lot of time and heartache.

Good luck.
 
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