Early A-Body Interior Rear-View Mirror Repair

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MDchanic

Connoisseur d'Junque
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Location
Hudson Valley, NY
I just got a new, 38,000-mile 1964 Dodge Dart 270 to replace my old '67 Valiant 100 that bit the dust in 2006 (yes, I'm patient).
The car is very original and unmolested, down to the undated B78-13 bias-ply whitewalls and never-used spare.

I'm going to set about all of the usual maintenance for a car like this, and will need to fix a few small items, and will be posting a number of questions regarding things that can't be answered by the factory Service Manual and Parts Manual.

First, though, a quick fact that may be helpful to other early-A owners.

When I got my car, the first thing that annoyed me was the inside rear-view mirror – It was floppy.
Now, among the things that are not popular when floppy, a rear-view mirror is high on the list.
I theorized and considered all of the various ways that one might rough up surfaces, and stuff in materials to tighten up an old mirror.
Then I decided to take it off, to check the part number.
Much to my surprise, I found this:

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The mirror is attached to the standard not with a rivet or a swaged connection, but with a 5/32" (4mm)-size Allen-socket screw.


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It's an interesting screw, as it has a "countersunk" face. It's definitely a "special."


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Both the standard and the shaft have corresponding flats, so the shaft can't spin when you're trying to loosen it. Pretty crafty, really.


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So, all I needed to do was to tighten up the screw, and the mirror was fine.

On a modern car, the manual would tell you to replace the entire windshield, and re-synchronize it to the mirror computer.

Just a pleasant surprise I thought might come in handy to someone one day.

– Eric
 
It's not 4mm, trust me on that. lol Yes, it also doesn't hurt a thing to take a QTip with some solvent and clean the socket and the ball stud off of any grease and dirt. A couple of drops of blue Locktite will help that screw from loosening up again. We love pictures around here. Love to see the car.
 
Thanks for the tip but most of us have been tightening rear view mirrors for 50 years.
Hey, I'm glad you have, but as a lifelong "GM Guy" with the one guilty exception of MoPar A-Bodies (and a total crush on 1960 Chryslers and '61 DeSotos), and as someone who's read back to February of 2013 in the "A-Body Discussion" thread, it was news to me.

If the post helps someone at some point, It'll make me happy.

– Eric
 
It's not 4mm, trust me on that.
No, but I grabbed a 4mm out of the "Drawer-o'-Allen Keys" first, and it really is an exact fit, so I figured I'd mention it for those who spend more time in Ikea than the garage.

We love pictures around here. Love to see the car.
I ain't got much at this point (The Northeast doesn't provide a real uplifting backdrop this time of year), but here's a few:


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(For those of you in "certain" parts of the country, that white stuff is called "frost.")

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1964 Dart 10.jpeg


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– Eric
 
No, but I grabbed a 4mm out of the "Drawer-o'-Allen Keys" first, and it really is an exact fit, so I figured I'd mention it for those who spend more time in Ikea than the garage.


I ain't got much at this point (The Northeast doesn't provide a real uplifting backdrop this time of year), but here's a few:


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View attachment 1716170897
(For those of you in "certain" parts of the country, that white stuff is called "frost.")

View attachment 1716170894

View attachment 1716170896

View attachment 1716170898

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– Eric
I understand. I cannot count the number of times I've used metric for standard and standard for metric tools. Taht's a nice lookin car!
 
That's a nice lookin' car!
Thanks, pretty much a time capsule.

Owner #3 sold it to me, told me about Owners #2 and #1.
#3 had it for about a year, ended up with too many cars to keep them all inside, didn't want to leave it out, never did anything to it.
I've corresponded with #2, he's going to call me, he drove it around a bit 10 years ago, then put it in a barn.
He bought it from the family when Owner #1, a 103 year old lady, died.

At this time in my life, I'm done looking for unobtainium trim pieces (I do have my eyes open for a pair of headlight bezels that don't look like kneaded dough, but that's another thread), and similar minor crap. It's not a challenge, it's an annoyance. I'm either buying something complete or I'm buying something I don't care about at all and messing with it.
Either way, this is for fun and relaxation - I can get frustrated working on my newer drivers that I HAVE to fix, and don't need to waste three days of my life chasing some PO's wiring for his ejector seat, or finding his dead cat.

- Eric
 
Welcome to FABO. That's a nice looking little Dart you have there! Laysons Restoration has headlight rings for it. Granted, they're proud of them.....but they look nice! @Rick@Laysons might be able to help.
If you've fooled with other old cars, you may already know about SMS Fabrics, which is the go to place for finding original pattern upholstery material. They may have what you need to fix your seat.
 
Welcome to FABO.
Thank you!

That's a nice looking little Dart you have there!
And Thank you!

Laysons Restoration has headlight rings for it. Granted, they're proud of them.....but they look nice!
Trying to avoid this becoming a big-money car, but I may well fall into that rabbit hole one day. Meanwhile, if I come across a set of used ones that are only a little dinged up, I'll probably buy them.

If you've fooled with other old cars, you may already know about SMS Fabrics, which is the go to place for finding original pattern upholstery material. They may have what you need to fix your seat.
I guess that's a bad photo, because the seats are actually close to perfect.
The driver's side probably could use a slight cleaning, but that's it. It's one of the reasons I bought it. :)

The carpet's a bit faded, and I've already got color samples from ACC, but the prices have gone up since the last time I bought a set from them (was about $120 then, almost $500 now =8-O ), so, after spending almost $700 on tune-up parts, I think I'll hold off for a few months.

- Eric
 
...I see it now! What I thought was a bad place on the seat is a rag or something laying there...
I think those are the factory original seat belts you're seeing.
They're kinda crumpled up.

The seat looks slightly stained in the photo, but not in person (which is a bit strange).

- Eric
 
Thank you!


And Thank you!


Trying to avoid this becoming a big-money car, but I may well fall into that rabbit hole one day. Meanwhile, if I come across a set of used ones that are only a little dinged up, I'll probably buy them.


I guess that's a bad photo, because the seats are actually close to perfect.
The driver's side probably could use a slight cleaning, but that's it. It's one of the reasons I bought it. :)

The carpet's a bit faded, and I've already got color samples from ACC, but the prices have gone up since the last time I bought a set from them (was about $120 then, almost $500 now =8-O ), so, after spending almost $700 on tune-up parts, I think I'll hold off for a few months.

- Eric
$700 on tune-up parts? Yikes, are you having them made from scratch?:wtf::lol:
 
$700 on tune-up parts? Yikes, are you having them made from scratch?
Well, yeah. Stuff got a lot more expensive than it was 30 or 40 years ago.

Points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires (all good stuff, not crap), vacuum advance diaphragm (original is holed), VC gasket, belts, hoses, heater core (they're not $20 anymore), air cleaner, carb rebuild kit, choke pull-off (again, holed), fuel filter with vapor return line, gas tank seal and ring (gotta have a look inside), fuel pickup sock, dual master cylinder, brake hoses, brake spring kits, wheel cylinder kits, a brake cylinder hone (don't know where mine went, $10 is cheaper than trying to find it), wheel bearing seals, trans filter and gasket, plus... a few pieces of sales literature (gotta feed the mind, ya know?).

Sheet adds up. Even from RockAuto (and there are a few things they didn't have).

And that's not counting a set of 14" SBP rims and tires. (Happen to know of anyone with some Duster rims they need drug out from behind their barn?)

But, yes, I was "taken aback" myself when I looked at the totals from RA, eBay, Van's, etc.
The M/C was $75, at RA. Last one I bought, in the early 2000s, was about $15.
Brake hoses are almost $20 each.
Heater core (Four Seasons, maybe US-made) was $81 including shipping and tax. They used to be $20

So, don't get me going on the cost of parts, which aren't as good as they used to be.
Oh crap. You did!

– Eric
 
$700 on tune-up parts? Yikes, are you having them made from scratch?
Just to illustrate my point more... illustratively:

This is over $600 worth of parts. There are a few that I didn't think to put in this pile, so I didn't include their cost.

And that's getting things at RockAuto and anywhere else I could that had a good deal.

$600 in Parts.jpg


– Eric
 
$700 to get a dependable car up and running well that you can actually do repairs on sounds like a bargain compared to any car built in the last 20 years!

Please post about your work and progress on the car as you continue to work on, and drive it...
 
i guess my definition of "tuneup parts" are different than yours.
 
Hey, I'm glad you have, but as a lifelong "GM Guy" with the one guilty exception of MoPar A-Bodies (and a total crush on 1960 Chryslers and '61 DeSotos), and as someone who's read back to February of 2013 in the "A-Body Discussion" thread, it was news to me.

If the post helps someone at some point, It'll make me happy.

– Eric
"Lifelong GM Guy" Sorry to hear that ! :rofl:

PS: There is a button on the headlight switch that you hold in to pull the headlight knob out. :)
 
... there is a button on the headlight switch that you hold in to pull the headlight knob out.
Same button on every GM headlight switch from at least the '60s through the '80s.

In fact, it's basically the same switch.

Sorry to disappoint you.

– Eric
 
i guess my definition of "tuneup parts" are different than yours.
Guess so.

Maybe my memory's foggy, but it seems to me that "back in the day" a "full" tune-up (people didn't refer to a "30,000 mile factory service appointment" back then) consisted of oil, filter, lube, ATF & filter, belts, hoses, valve adjustment (if applicable), points, condenser, rotor, cap, wires, and plugs.

There's a bit more than that here, but really nothing that's not fairly essential to replace on a 60 year old car that hasn't had plates since 2014.

I think we may be beating a semantic dead horse here, so I'll just quit now.

– Eric
 
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