Early A Control Arms

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Mopartist

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I have a question about my 65' Dart Control Arms. Although I cleaned them up; they really do need to be rebuilt. I don't have a press (or the know how) to rebuild them myself. Do you think most suspension shops should be able to rebuild them; even though they are 44 years old?

control arms 1.jpg
 
I dismantled, sandblasted, painted, and re-assembled mine (uppers and lowwers) with a total of about 3 hours work (over the course of a few days because of drying time) Its not that hard at all. Parts were less than $30 and if you decide you want to save some $ paying someone else to do it you can pick up a ball joint press at Harbor Freight for around $30 and use that to press in the new bushings. Regardless, your old ones should be fine to have new bushings pressed in.
 
Ys I did mine to, I even powder coated them black then new bushings etc. easy as pie. Go for it. As long as they are not bent, bushing holes worn out etc. You are good to go. Do it yourself not that hard buddy!
 
Is there a "how to" article somewhere that shows step by step how to do this?

Oh and Cliff; I JUST got through cleaning my shop when taking this pic! It was really a mess before! :) Heh heh!
 
I had mine done at a local machine shop. They had a tough time with one of the old bushings popping out so I am glad I had them done by someone else! I would definetly have some new bushings pressed in, especially if they are out.
 
How did you get them so clean? Media blasting? Acid dipping? Krylon?
Are you going to put the reinforment plates on the bottoms?
 
Vic Storm said:
How did you get them so clean? Media blasting? Acid dipping? Krylon?
Are you going to put the reinforment plates on the bottoms?
Click to expand...

I had some Krylon chrome paint sittin on the shelf after cleaning them up; so I shot em just to keep the rust away. I knew they were gonna be layin around for a few months before I got my front end back together. As it turned out it was "years"
 
Leanna your killing me, now I have to put something else on the list and the list isn't short but I need to take advantage of that sale.
 
LOL Vic! Hey, at least you'll go out with a smile on your face. How many can claim they were offed by a powder coatin' redhead?!? ;-)

I'm really looking forward to meeting you, Bill and Memike next weekend. I'm even making a homemade pizza but you guys gotta bring the refreshments.
 
I was thinking of a set of reinforcement plates w/sway bar mounts fabricated into them both to make it strong. Has anybody used those plates from FFI?
 
Well it seems as though par for the course is gonna prevail and this also will not be a slam dunk. The pivot shafts I have on my control arms are for "poly" bushings, but used with rubber bushings. I guess one of the previous owners might have thought he upgraded the wobbly suspension. Anyway; it makes sense to me that may be why the pins are bent. So in checking out pivot pins on Magnum HP; Just Suspension; and Mancini's site; an early A body with rubber bushings takes a completely different type of pin with a rounded area about midway up the shaft. (See pic) Some are telling me to use rubber bushings; but I'm wondering if I should use the strange looking pins; even though they are completely different than what I have? You can clearly see the difference. I posted this over at the "other" A body site as well to see if I can come to a conclusion on just what pins I should use; and how to explain it to the machine shop who is doing the work.

Pic 1 is of what I have; pic 2 is one from Magnum; and pic 3 is from FirmFeel. What do you think?

control arms 2.jpg


am-34572a.jpg


lca_pin_r_a.jpg
 
If you don't have access to a big press to get the bushings out, you can put a torch to 'em and burn the insides out. A cold chisel and a BFH will remove the shells. The polygraphite kit I used on my '66 required that I re-use the shell for the lower control arm. Check directions before whacking it with the BFH.

That MagnumHP sure looks purty, but it just don't look right as an A-body pivot pin. More inclined to go with the Firm Feel.
 
I ended up getting the right pair through Dick at FirmFeel (The black ones posted above) I had the machine shop at NAPA replace them with rubber bushings. They told me that it was a real struggle to get the old ones out.
So now I'm almost ready for assembly after stripping; grinding, and painting the inner wheel wells; frame, and engine bay. I aquired a dropped center link over the winter (which I need to clean up) and have a new MP disc brake kit to install as well. Not sure if I'll buy new stabilizer bars or use the old stock ones. Any thoughts on those?

front end.jpg


frontwells.jpg
 
OK; all cleaned up and primered. Next I need to paint the eventual body color (Silver) on the engine bay and inner fenderwells before putting the front end back together. I've heard that the /6 stock T bars are OK for drag racing; but I will be using my car for occasional street cruising as well. Should I go with a beefier T bar?

wheelwell cleanup.jpg
 
Looking very good Moparist, going to be clean as hell . I didn't see any undercoating in your clean and sanding. Your car didn;t have any undercoating in the inner fenders huh? Boy mine did and it was a pain to get off but yours looks sweet and clean, very cool.
 
Wow; the engine bay sure did! It took me forever using brake cleaner to get it off. I guess some previous owner did the fenderwells ;who knows how long ago? Whew; lucked out! But the bottom of the car has lots!
 
Then I surely didn't have to tell you how hard that stuff is to get off. I didn't have much in the engine compartment or underneath but the fenderwells were loaded with it. Thats strange huh? I wonder if that is factory applied or done a dealer option? Anyone know?
 
Mopartist: Enjoying your thread. My two cents: I'd go with the beefier bars, I think you'll be happier taking the turns as you're cruising.
 
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