Early A-Info

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MOPARFIVE

MOPARFIVE

Midwest Moparz
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Hi everyone. I have a 63 valiant that I want to install a late model A-body K-frame and disc brake set up in the car. I have all of these pieces from a 74 Dart. Is this a bolt in project or do the early A-bodies require some modification to do this install? Also what trans mount should be used to install later model 904 into this 63? Do I use the late model or the early trans mount or do I have to fabricate one? (this is the piece that bolts trans to torsion bar crossmember) One last thing is what headers will fit a 63 Valiant with small block in it? I want to go under chassis. Who makes a decent header for this application? Thanks to anbody out there that can share some info to help this project along.
 
MOPARFIVE said:
Hi everyone. I have a 63 valiant that I want to install a late model A-body K-frame and disc brake set up in the car. I have all of these pieces from a 74 Dart. Is this a bolt in project or do the early A-bodies require some modification to do this install? Also what trans mount should be used to install later model 904 into this 63? Do I use the late model or the early trans mount or do I have to fabricate one? (this is the piece that bolts trans to torsion bar crossmember) One last thing is what headers will fit a 63 Valiant with small block in it? I want to go under chassis. Who makes a decent header for this application? Thanks to anbody out there that can share some info to help this project along.
Click to expand...

The K-frame will not interchange, nor does the K-frame need to be changed
to add a V8; in a 1963-66 A-body car.You only need Schumachers kit.

http://www.engine-swaps.com/

You will need a sledghammer to bash in the firewall,
as needed where the distributor and rear of the valve covers will hit.

I suggest use 1964-66 273 Exhaust manifolds, headers are a major hassle
in a 1963-66 A body.

The disc brake conversion is not too hard to do.

You need to start reading the threads here, that are already on the site,
use the "Search" function for great hints. ;)

'63-66 A-Body S6 to 273/318 or 340/360 Conversion, 273/318 to 340/360 upgrade, or 273/318 Replacement. Exclusive, mounting brackets bolt a 273/318 or 340/360 directly to your Slant 6 K-member — with no cutting, welding, suspension changes or K-member removal required. Also available for 273/318 replacement or 273/318 to 340/360 upgrades. Powder-coated brackets, factory-style insulators, grade 8 bolts, $144 + $13 S&H.


6372Amount_63666_273318.gif
 
I believe you will also need a v-8 centerlink,,they have more drop to them than the slant six link does
 
I guess the firewall is a little different on the 63's. So your dizzy will be real close, I've heard that some folks had to modify the firewall to get it to clear. Hopefully some body will chime in with some pictures for small blocks.
 
As stated the 74 K-member is not a bolt in, but the disc brakes are. All you need are the upper control arms and spindles, The 63 lower will work. You want to flip sides on the spindles so the calipers are on the back, then use Volare/Aspen brake hoses. Get the proportioning valve from the 74 also. The center link is different on the V8 cars. Headers are available. TTI,Hooker,Dougs, Spitfire all have them. I have the hookers(#5208) on my 64. They doe exit under the car, but some of the tubes go out the fenderwell. This topic alone will go on forever!!!. I have a set of early a-body 273 manifolds if you decide to go that way. PM me if your interested. The firewall is the other issue. The wiper motor is under the dash that causes the bumpout in the center. I've seen some swaps that cleared that??? Schmacher mounts is all you need, plus a better radiator..
I'll be leaving for Carlisle tomorrow, I won't be checking emails..

Bob
64 Dart
 
smokn440 said:
I believe you will also need a v-8 centerlink,,they have more drop to them than the slant six link does
Click to expand...

the other option is to raise the motor, I put some 3/8" shims under the motor mounts at the k-member and it raised it up just enough to provide the necessary clearance between the oil pan and center link.

good luck, these early a's are fun cars and swaps aren't too difficult, even for a novice mopar guy like me.

-Tim
 
the '63 firewall just barely clears the distributor with no modifications if using stock 273 mounts. I ran mine like that for a while then relocated the wiper motor bracket and beat the firewall back to give some more clearance.
 
On my '62 Valiant V-200, it was only necessary to remove the heater box. I'm using Schumacher mounts. The '60-'62s have the smallest engine bay. Your '63's engine bay is wider, but I don't think it's any longer than my '62's.

valiant_firewall.jpg
 
Thanks caveman. I knew the shumaker mounts were avail but I have a really clean late a-kframe just sitting around. Oh well The conversion kit will do just fine. I too have been working on mopars for just a tad over 30 years but dont have alot of time on these early a bodies. I will pass on the sledge hammer technique though. Thanks for your help.
 
MOPARFIVE said:
Thanks for the info to all who offered. The 63 will be with v-8 by summers end.
Click to expand...

I've read about it a bunch of times, but would still like to see all the pictures you can manage. One of these days, I'm gonna get one of the two small blocks I've collected into my '63 Dart coupe (Arizona title). I'm still collecting parts and tools, and it's been slow going, but I get a little closer one bit at a time and one day at a time. Some visual motivation would be a very good thing!
 
MOPARFIVE said:
Thanks caveman. I knew the shumaker mounts were avail but I have a really clean late a-kframe just sitting around. Oh well The conversion kit will do just fine. I too have been working on mopars for just a tad over 30 years but dont have alot of time on these early a bodies. I will pass on the sledge hammer technique though. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

The kframe from 1967 and newer will NOT FIT 1963-66 Abody
the size is wrong, and no amount of "tweaking" will make it fit.

Sell it to someone, or for scrap metal, if you don't want to keep
it stored for a future project. :)

Some of us "old folks" have learned stuff the Hard way,
by wasting a lot of time, and or money.

Also when you do this swap; save yourself some hassle and use a small starter, like for a 1995 Dakota V8.

Here is a link to a New one, not rebuilt.

http://www.partzfinder.com/Mopar_SB_BB_High_Torque_Mini_Starter_p/gen-17466.htm

This High Torque, Off-set Gear Reduction Mini Starter offers a significant weight savings over an older stock starter; this starter only weighs 8.4 lbs. It fits Mopar Slant 6, SB & BB engines (170-440). It provides 50% more torque than stock starters and weighs less than 8.5 pounds.

Draws less than half the amps are early starters
Click to expand...





Our Price: $99.00


Stock Status: In Stock

Availability: Usually Ships in 24 Hours
Product Code: GEN-17466 Qty:









Description Technical Specs


This High Torque, Off-set Gear Reduction Mini Starter offers a significant weight savings over an older stock starter; this starter only weighs 8.4 lbs. It fits Mopar Slant 6, SB & BB engines (170-440). It provides 50% more torque than stock starters and weighs less than 8.5 pounds.

Specifications:



Features

Nippondenso Off-Set Gear Reduction (OSGR) starter
1.4 kW, 12 Volt, CW, 10-Tooth Pinion
Lightweight
Compact
Gear reduction
Draws less than half the amps are early starters
 
DionR said:
I disagree. O:)

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21787&highlight=kframe

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23388&highlight=kframe
Click to expand...

Wow, Thats not "Tweaking!!".:read2:
Thats Fabricating and Welding, and Rebuilding the part; to make it fit.
[Nice work]8)
{thats way more involved than anything that I am capable of,
and I removed my 273, and installed a 318 that I had rebuilt myself}

Tweaking is having to grind 1/8th inch of metal not narrowing 1.46". ;)

DionR
factory dimensions show the frame width difference as 1.46” between the early and late A-Body,
Click to expand...
 
MOPARFIVE said:
Hi everyone. I have a 63 valiant that I want to install a late model A-body K-frame and disc brake set up in the car. I have all of these pieces from a 74 Dart. Is this a bolt in project or do the early A-bodies require some modification to do this install? Also what trans mount should be used to install later model 904 into this 63? Do I use the late model or the early trans mount or do I have to fabricate one? (this is the piece that bolts trans to torsion bar crossmember) One last thing is what headers will fit a 63 Valiant with small block in it? I want to go under chassis. Who makes a decent header for this application? Thanks to anbody out there that can share some info to help this project along.
Click to expand...


I assume you are putting in a V-8. Which one? If you put a 273/318, you don't need any kits you just need motor mounts...there is no such thing as a Slant 6 K-frame on '63 to 66 A-bodies; they are all the same. If I remember correctly the 340/360 has relocated motor mounts, so they would possibly need some adapters, but I may be wrong. Remember if you go to a newer transmission, you'll need a new driveshaft. I dont know the changes between the two transmissions, but if you have access to a newer car you should be able to measure and look for a change of trans mounting.

If you have the complete front suspension, I'd just compare and measure the mounting points for possible changes. I don't think there was any geometery changes to the '63 A-bodies on. So I think you should be able to do a direct boltup to change the suspension.

Back in the day, we used the goofy multi piece "D-Dart" headers, as they wrapped around everything and went under the frame, and not through the wheel well. Doug's made the headers, they were called "between the rails" headers. They were a so-called 4 into 1, 1-3/4" x 30' "Atlas" booster exhaust system. Doug's, I think is just a name now, so I don't think you could get those headers, but you could try the owner of the name, and see if they have old drawings. I did one car that had the Hooker through-the-wheel-well headers. They arched way up, and then went flat against the rear of the inner wheel well, but if you put bigger tires on the car, they rubbed.
 
for headers i would use dougs fit like a glove.. work with or with out ps..good ground clearance 909 788 4878 for trans mount early a imperial or may be napa 67 threw 69 one stud (the early ones had 2 studs that went threw the mounting holes on the bottom)...bobdart is right you dont need the k member 62 threw 66... 6 and 8 used same k member you just need the uper control arm and spindles...64 threw 66 v8 center link too ..for motor mounts use schumacher 206 364 7151... good luck
 
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