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BillyBob0780

BillyBob0780

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Sorry to bother you all. I appreciate I post some rubbish questions.
Ive posted recently regarding EFI kits. Ive decided that for UK purposes and as a hobby car my money is better spent elsewhere.
I still want it to start better, better drivability, no interest in performance mods.
The car is a 318 1973 with the Carter carb on it. Are there better carbs out there that dont require the manifold to changed as well ?
 
From the history of the car. The gent I bought it off had a total of three carbs on it during his ownership ( two years ) which he left in the trunk. One was a Holley two barrel unknown reason what is wrong with it. Another one is a very nasty Chinese one. Finally the one thats on it which he appears to have bought from a Parts place in Yorkshire in 2020. I can say the choke doesnt appear to work. It bogs down when you take off and cruising along it hesitates.
 
Its a Cater 2BBD. Its choke is bi metal lever effort that works when Ive took it off and used a heat gun on it.... but, it sure does not do anything to start it.... pure cranking and banging at the throttle housing is the only way itll start
 
It will help to identify the specific carburetor number.

That said, there are a number of things you can do to get this one adjusted better, and also some things you should be a aware of.
Lets begin with 1973 models.
In 1973 many, but maybe not all, Chrysler chokes got an electric assist.
IF the carburetor on the car has the electric assist, it will speed up the choke opening.
Your car may also have had some other emissions related features, and when things are changed (carb or distributor) stuff that was very sensitive to calibration and settings is now no longer working hand in glove. For better drivability, if there is an OSAC, it must be bypassed. For better starting, the factory choke is actually really good. But regardless getting the choke intial and 'kick' posistions set correctly will be key.

The choke:
1. Starting position. The choke plate moves to the start position when the throttle is moved and the bimetal spring is cold.
2. Qualified position (also called kick). As soon as the engine is running on its own manifold vacuum pulls the choke partially open.
^^^This is more important than the starting position in terms of drivability^^^^^
3. Initial fast idle position. This is linked to the choke's starting position.

If you have a factory carb, then you can pertty much follow the factory specs for the choke.
If its an aftermarket replacement carb, there will probably be specs for it once you know the model.


Just some tips:
Make sure the spark plugs are clean. It worth checking that they are not carbon fouled.
Check the timing. Make sure its close to factory specs. A common trap is to set the timing at idle without paying attention to the rpm. RPM is critical to timing.
 
I had a 71 Duster with a 318 in it back in the late 80's.It never ran good until I put an older Carter 2 bbl on it from a 1965 273. After that swap it ran great for years
 
Thanks for the information. Another point the car originated from California and the gent I bought it off removed all the smog equipment. Would this effect how it runs ?
 
BillyBob0780 said:
Thanks for the information. Another point the car originated from California and the gent I bought it off removed all the smog equipment. Would this effect how it runs ?
Click to expand...
That could make it run better or make it run worse, it all depends upon how it was done, if vacuum hoses were plugged, if the carb and timing were adjusted.
Regardless that engine should start and run smoothly and give decent performance.
What I would do is make an evaluation of the engine as it is today.
1) remove the spark plugs, what do they look like? Worn, carbon fouled, oil fouled, rich, lean?
2) do a compression test, are they all with in 10% of each other and above 120 psi?
3) remove a valve cover, is the engine sludged, indicating a history of poor maintenance.
4) spark plug wires, distributor cap show were or age? Get a multi meter and check the sp wire resistance, or install new.
5) get the choke on the existing carb operating to specifications. Make a new posting here at FABO for help in you getting your existing carb set up and rebuilt. Include photos of the carb, the carb list number.
6) keep a record of oil consumption over 1000 miles of driving.
7) do a close inspection for vacuum leaks, fluid leaks, mis routed hoses, pvc system function.
8) get a timing light and see where the initial ignition timing is set. Rev the engine, is the centrifical timing advance working, does it advance smoothly? If the vacuum advance present and is it functioning?
Basically get a base line on where the engine is today to discover and fix issues that may be causing the starting and running problems.
 
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Are you tuning it by the book numbers? If you don't have emissions, which you appear not removing all that junk, throw the book numbers in the garbage. They were established to meet smog standards back then, not where the engine ran best.

I'd set the initial timing at 10-14 and get the total in the 34-36 area at 2500-3000 and see how it runs. Takes some work, but the benefits of the engine running more efficiently at idle are huge all the way up the rpm range..
 
Ive found a local mobile carb specialist who I may get to go over it.
Returning to my original question though. Can anyone offer suggestions of replacement carbs that would require me to replace the original manifold ?
 
Thinking that you are looking for a 2 bbl carb with the same base as a Carter BBD, a Holley 2280 has the same base and was used on 318 engines.
Throttle and kick down connectors may not be identical but will be similar.
 
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put a performer 318/360 or a stock iron 68-70 340 intake and a carter variety 4bbl.

Lots of carb issues aren't actually carb related, they are rooted in other systems of the engine. Timing being first and foremost.
 
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