edelbrock camshafts

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lil red

lil red

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inquiring minds...

i've noticed there are alot of camshaft brands and products mentioned alot here such as lunati voodoo line and comp xe brand and hughes and MP

as well edelbrocks line of heads and intakes such as the air gap are also popular amoung builders, but no mention of edelbrock camshafts....are they garbage? or the design of them don't suit most sb mopar builds?

they sell "top end kits" and the carbs/heads/intakes are used but not camshafts usually

just wondering ... searching for imput...thanks fabo:prayer::prayer:
 
Slow lazy lobes.

I'd get a Voodoo or XE before running the Ede cam.
 
The camshaft design is very old, and outdated compared to newer cams.

I used an Edelbrock Performer RPM cam in my car and it ran great, it was a little radical though with the durations.
 
The "edelbrock" cams are reboxed grinds designed 25 years ago,they work ok in some applications but I'd never think to try one.
 
crackedback said:
Slow lazy lobes.

I'd get a Voodoo or XE before running the Ede cam.
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I inherited a 318 with TRW forged slugs (.070" down the hole at TDC!!!!) and the RPM cam. The worst of both worlds. Truly dreadful until about 3200rpm then it would wake up and scoot off. I never dared run the numbers for dynamic comp.

And this was in a 2500lb car that still ran 12s. The open diff had no traction worries.
 
I never heard this.
goldmember said:
The "edelbrock" cams are reboxed grinds designed 25 years ago,they work ok in some applications but I'd never think to try one.
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lil red

The nice thing about the cam is it is dyno'd in an engine and then sold as a package to make "***" amount of HP if you follow, er, copy there build. A few other members here have copied the Edelbrock build and were happy with the results.

The way the cam is ground is not for a max power, or lite drag, or super nice street manors, but tolerable for most people looking to get into something with the addition of a known result and a bit of "UMPH" to it. It is designed to cover a large patch rather than anyone or group specific.

With these basic specs, link to cam card below it, you can see it is not a beastly cam but as said, a bit slow in the ramp. (The difference seen in the advertised duration and duration @ .050. Take note of this and what the advertised duration is and where it is measured at.)
With the duration listed and the RPM it operates in, it is s a good entry level cam that is capable of making power and have driveabilty for the novice. Though 10 inch's of vacuum is a bit low for power brakes.

234° / 244° .488" / .510" 112° 107° 10" of vacuum.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/camshafts/locator.php?part_number=7177&submit=go

Better cams out there? Hell ya, you bet. However, two things come to mind, theres a million cams out there cause not everyone has the same opinion or like for this or that cam and, IMO, cams are like socks, they get changed out a lot. Try it out. If ya like it, keep it. If ya don't like it, swap in another one. Save the old cam, label it and go from there. Maybe a resale? What the heck?! Why not. Off set the new cam cost a bit. Then, maybe, you go back to the old cam? Who knows?
 
thanks fellas..

I'm not interested in it , but a fellow worker wants to buy one of the "kits"
heads, intake, carb and cam.

His arguement is that they are matched components and wants to put them on a stock bottom end 318.

My thought is how can a kit thats advertised for small block mopars work the same on 318s, 340s, and 360s considering the different characteristics of each motor.

I'm trying to convince him that there are better components for his 318

anyway thanks again - informative as always
 
oh... also could someone explain how comparing the advertised duration vs the duration at .050 , you can determine the rate of lift of a camshaft?

i've read this before but it wasen't explained
 
I've never heard they were reboxed either. That said, there are better grinds out there, but it's not like the Eddy stuff won't work, or make power, because they will. Not everything has to have the fastest rate of lift. Sometimes slow and lazy is also durable and reliable in a sho nuff 100% street driven engine. It all boils down to what you want to accomplish.
 
lil red said:
oh... also could someone explain how comparing the advertised duration vs the duration at .050 , you can determine the rate of lift of a camshaft?

i've read this before but it wasen't explained
Click to expand...
This will ruffle some feathers,but.... ADVERTIZED numbers are all over the place leaving them useless for comparing lobes. If a company lists a .006" duration it doesn't mean it will truely measure on a camdr or adcole. The cam companys are not stupid,folks THINK that FASTER rate of lift is the king of making HP,so cam companys go to great lengths to PLEASE them. The truth is it's often not close to the truth,unless you have the time and $$$$ to test you may not be getting the best cam for your combo. I've run a dozen cams through a combo to see first hand what works and it would surprise many the results. Truthfully looking at a seat(.006,.0045,etc)and .050 number leaves out most usefull information in choosing a cam. Best bet is to get in with someone that knows what works and go from there.
 
Not bad advice.I used to sell speed parts,I would only recommend cams I have personally see work.I have bought cams,just to learn their characteristics,for my own knowledge.
 
StrokerScamp said:
I've never heard they were reboxed either. That said, there are better grinds out there, but it's not like the Eddy stuff won't work, or make power, because they will. Not everything has to have the fastest rate of lift. Sometimes slow and lazy is also durable and reliable in a sho nuff 100% street driven engine. It all boils down to what you want to accomplish.
Click to expand...
Yep,reboxed,I'm shocked everybody doesn't know that. You are correct that fastest rate of lift doesn't mean as much as most would like to believe.
 
I have to say something about Edlebrock packages. I talk to the people at Edlebrock about there RPM package for a 440. I built a 440 with the RPM heads, intake, cam and carburetor. The motor made alittle more HP than they said which was 469. I change to 10.1 compression added a Quickfuel carburetor. The motor made 500.1 HP at 535 ft torque. So I would say they did there homework.
I was thinking about putting one in my 360 thats in my 65 Dart.
 
68dodge said:
I have to say something about Edlebrock packages. I talk to the people at Edlebrock about there RPM package for a 440. I built a 440 with the RPM heads, intake, cam and carburetor. The motor made alittle more HP than they said which was 469. I change to 10.1 compression added a Quickfuel carburetor. The motor made 500.1 HP at 535 ft torque. So I would say they did there homework.
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If your happy with the results that is all that maters. You do understand that with some testing you could pick up a bunch?
 
I know(lol).You know camshafts,more than most.Don't always plug the newest ramps in.Stroke,old school head porting,Cnc porting.Cheap stroker kits.Trust what you know works,and go from there.
 
Abodybomber said:
Not bad advice.I used to sell speed parts,I would only recommend cams I have personally see work.I have bought cams,just to learn their characteristics,for my own knowledge.
Click to expand...

this is exactly why i enjoy picking everyones brain on this site....thanks again fabo

sure beats buying a bunch and trying them when others have more experience
 
lil red said:
thanks fellas..

I'm not interested in it , but a fellow worker wants to buy one of the "kits"
heads, intake, carb and cam.
Click to expand...

that is the problem. People want easy. Edelbrock made it easy and added a gimmick, "Match" as if it ment something. My uncle fell for it and pissed and whined.

His arguement is that they are matched components and wants to put them on a stock bottom end 318.
Click to expand...
re argue back that it is designed for the bigger engines. Then direct him here. There are more than a few fellas that will be smart enough to teach him right and straighten him out.

My thought is how can a kit thats advertised for small block mopars work the same on 318s, 340s, and 360s considering the different characteristics of each motor.
Click to expand...
Bingo, dead on.
 
Which cam profile is more aggressive?
which one has a faster velocity?
Which has a higher acceleration rate?
Which would make more power?
Which cam is better? More aggressive? Just for fun.
Both cams are designed for 1.5 rocker ratio.

Profile "A"
Hot Lash: .012"
[email protected]": 269
[email protected]": 242
[email protected]": 158
Lobe Lift: .358"

Profile "B"
Hot Lash: .022"
[email protected]": 280
[email protected]": 247
[email protected]": 162
Lobe Lift: .365" Just thought it would be fun to figure the puzzle out. I bet alot of folks given enough time will get it right.
 
Lot's of info left out with this test,but just for the numbers advertized and so forth.
 
lil red- where is Ricky, Julian, and Bubbles these days? Them and "The Red Green Show" were some of the best 'cultural' exports to come out of Canada in recent memory...I saw your avatar, had to comment.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but, are the Edelbrock cams based off Chevrolet grinds for the Mopars. The specs are different for their cams compared to say Comp, Eglin, etc.
 
V-100 said:
lil red- where is Ricky, Julian, and Bubbles these days? Them and "The Red Green Show" were some of the best 'cultural' exports to come out of Canada in recent memory...I saw your avatar, had to comment.
Click to expand...

never met them personally - but love the show - seem to be quite a hit for a bunch of nobuddys from N.S.

watched a documentary and it interviewed the producer - it started as an idea and just snowballed -the local networks hated it but show case loved it and picked it up -a hit kinda like bob and doug from the 80"s eh
 
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