I had to take the air cleaner off my carb today while i had the engine running and i noticed the carburetor seemed awfully loud, it sounded like somone spraying an air hose into a bucket? i checked the back of it to see if the back port deal was plugged i dont know but i think it is for vaccume controlled brakes or something? anyways the piece i was thinking behind the carb was plugged off and it was still awfully loud? just sounded like somone spraying air into a bucket, are these carbs typically kinda noisey or do i have something going on?
edelbrock carb questions?
- Thread starter pjc360
- Start date
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.........if no vacc ports are open, u can check the carb base gasket.........kim.......
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
they are loud carbs.if its running good on all 8 and idles good then you are good to go...if you had a vacuum leak that bad it would run horribly or not at all...
it must just be the loudness carb cause my uncle helped me time it and he adjusted the air mixture valve screws on the carburetor with a vaccume guage and he told me that there was a vaccume leak somewhere but it was a very small one. I broke an intake stud on the passenger side right smack dab in the middle when i was torquing the nuts after putting the intake manifold back on, and previous to that i had just drilled out 3 broken studs out of the head and re-sleeved the bolt holes so after i broke 1 putting it back on i was tired of drilling that i just put a dab of silicone in the bolt/stud hole of the intake and called it good for now. so thats most likely where the small vaccume leak is coming from? he told me it was a very small one.
and for the record i didnt break the first 3 instake studs lol, they were already broke when i got the truck, but man is that a pain in the rear drilling them out, it took about 2 hours per broken stud and about 5 drill bits per broken stud, when i take the intake manifold back off to drill the broken one out on the passenger side im going to try and get some left handed drill bits? i have heard that they might catch it and spin it back out but i do not know. them intake studs are so hard they are brittle, i would not reccomend them to anyone to use. after my expierence with them
also i was in my old mans friends shop when i was drilling those out using his air drill and he is the one that put what i think were some type of sleeve in the bolts/stud holes in the head? i will have to ask him what they were but he said they were kinda expensive, i remember them being a goldish bronze color and he put them in the bolt/stud holes after drilling them out. any of you guys heard of a sleeve type deal like that?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There are several brands of thread repair devices, probably the best known is called a "Helicoil."
https://www.google.com/search?um=1&...03879l0l704129l8l8l0l1l1l0l290l1216l1.3.3l7l0
You normally buy them in a little kit, which comes with a special tap, maybe a drill, and several helicoils of whatever size you bought.
So you drill out the broken bolt/ stud, and NOW you have ruined the threads and enlarged the hole, what WILL you do?
well, you take the special Helicoil tap, which is SPECIAL as well as larger than the original bolt, and re-thread the bad hole with the Helicoil tap.
Then you use the simple tool provided, and screw the Helicoil down into the new threads, and when done, break the tank off at the bottom and remove it.
Then just thread your original (or one size larger) bolt into the newly repaired hole
NOW you should NOT BE having so much trouble with bolts
One wonders if your arms aren't a little too big?
When I tighten down a carb, I do NOT use the "end" of the ratchet handle. I grip the ratchet up by the head with one hand, more like a screwdriver, and tighten EACH carb nut a little at a time. Go criss--cross on the bolts, not "round and round." Tighten them evenly.
If you are breaking intake manifolt --to-- head bolts, either the bolts have corroded and weakened, or you are buying crap bolts, or you are overtightening them.
Most bolts on Mopar engines will do just fine if they are "grade 5," so called "3 point" bolts
Exceptions are head, main, and rod bolts, and flywheel/ converter bolts.
I would suggest you look in the shop manuals for torque on different bolts. You would be surprised how little it takes to torque manifold bolts.
they were not bolts they were intake studs, and i didnt break any of them lol 3 of them were already broken when i aquired the truck, i think my old man broke them, then after a friend of mine and i drilled them out he grabbed his torque wrench and i said oh not put that thing back we are not torquing those studs and he said oh it will be ok and he broke one lol but its in the middle of the passenger side so its not leaking...
Im going to drill it out just waiting till winter is over do not have a shop at the moment. and i will ask him tomarrow what we used on the threads after we drilled the broekn studs out so i can buy sum to fix the one he broke. he will most likely have whatever he used in his shop.
Im going to drill it out just waiting till winter is over do not have a shop at the moment. and i will ask him tomarrow what we used on the threads after we drilled the broekn studs out so i can buy sum to fix the one he broke. he will most likely have whatever he used in his shop.
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