Edelbrock Fireball!!!

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electronic ignition system with a distributor based trigger.

I have to check the throttle cable as well, the carb was changed and dont know if it was adjusted, i may remove the throttle cable for my next start up attempt
 
faster4231 said:
electronic ignition system with a distributor based trigger.

I have to check the throttle cable as well, the carb was changed and dont know if it was adjusted, i may remove the throttle cable for my next start up attempt
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well yea? these are not EFI, crank triggered,cam triggered, waste spark cars! these are MOPARS lol! unless you take it apart your not going to throw the reluctor off...

go thru the timing steps i posted earlier to eliminate timing from you issues...
 
faster4231 said:
electronic ignition system with a distributor based trigger.

I have to check the throttle cable as well, the carb was changed and dont know if it was adjusted, i may remove the throttle cable for my next start up attempt
Click to expand...

and did you really copy that link from sears for a lighter?
 
Thanks guys, sorry about my fit on the jokes. Its all in fun. I will try another day with other options and update
 
like moparkid said ... I always pop out my number one plug and put my finger in the hole ,crank the engine over until I hear a PPPHHHHFFFFSSSSSTTTTT past my finger and immediately stop cranking .....then check the orientation of your rotor and you should either be on or just after the number one position.

also check to make sure all your plug wires are in correct order, you have good spark plugs, if your have points and condensor you need to make sure they are good and adjusted properly,check your coil and make sure it is wired correctly.

the thing I am not clear on.....is.... did the engine run correctly PRIOR to this carb swap? if not than you are taking a shot in the dark......for all you/we know ...your timing chain has jumped a tooth or has been installed incorrectly or you have a bent valve ,or bad piston rings .

you need to give more information on exactly what is is you have,you are doing,what has been done and what parts you are working with.

remember stupid questions get stupid answers.....you can only expect to be helped equal to the amount of effort you put into your question.

also...pictures help because someone with an eagle eye may spot something out of place that you might be over looking
 
DusterDude72 said:
like moparkid said ... I always pop out my number one plug and put my finger in the hole ,crank the engine over until I hear a PPPHHHHFFFFSSSSSTTTTT past my finger and immediately stop cranking .....then check the orientation of your rotor and you should either be on or just after the number one position.

also check to make sure all your plug wires are in correct order, you have good spark plugs, if your have points and condensor you need to make sure they are good and adjusted properly,check your coil and make sure it is wired correctly.

the thing I am not clear on.....is.... did the engine run correctly PRIOR to this carb swap? if not than you are taking a shot in the dark......for all you/we know ...your timing chain has jumped a tooth or has been installed incorrectly or you have a bent valve ,or bad piston rings .

you need to give more information on exactly what is is you have,you are doing,what has been done and what parts you are working with.

remember stupid questions get stupid answers.....you can only expect to be helped equal to the amount of effort you put into your question.

also...pictures help because someone with an eagle eye may spot something out of place that you might be over looking
Click to expand...

everything is on the money here!

and i dont think we asked the history on this thing...

how long did it have this problem
is this car new to you (just bought) or was it running and you changed something and now its not running
anything and everything helps...
 
faster4231 said:
Thanks guys, sorry about my fit on the jokes. Its all in fun. I will try another day with other options and update
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I know it can be very very frustrating, especially if this is your only car. being able to laugh at yourself is surely a asset.

I gave you my best advice with the joke :)

if its starting when you hold the choke closed, maybe its not getting enough fuel.
I'll pass a piece of advice I received: with key in the on positon (engine off) look down carb and pull on the throttle, you should see fuel squirts being feed into the carb.

but again sounds like timing is off, follow timing advice your getting above.

:icescrea:
 
Guitar Jones said:
Seriously I would have tossed that carb and installed a Holley first. I wouldn't waste my time on it.
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yeah but when you use 2 of them on a dual qaud intake its sweet. Idles great and throttle response is as good or better than any holley I used. I had a few demon race 650, holley 750 dp with proform hp body

I drive the car in 30 degree weather to 90 degree. secondaries i leave alone and just the front rods i switch. No fussing with them for months on end. I have summer rods and winter rods. may in goes the summer rods, oct goes in the winter rods.

Edebrock really should reissue the old d-66 intake for the smb
 
faster4231 said:
Like you say we all gotta learn someway and I rather learn by burning off my eyebrows then burning my wallet.
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Been there, done that. Got some nosehair burnt and first degree burns over most of my face, too. Like DusterDude said, it was 180º out. It took a few days for my smeller to work right. The hair was pretty normal after about a week. Once was enough for me.

Now, I carefully check to make sure that the #1 cylinder is at TDC and that the rotor lined up with the #1 plug wire. I also check to make sure the rocker arm is adjusted properly when applicable.
 
sounds like too much fuel to me i would get a regulator probably change plugs, when i had them kind of issues i had so much fuel in the motor my oil smelled like gas you might change it too
 
Same issue with a fellow gearhead. Called me over and showed me his new Edelbrock and told me it wouldnt start. Without even asking what was up I put my thumb over the hidden brake port and told him to fire it up, started fine to his amazement. Easiest beer I ever earned....Told him to look in the box and it was rolling around at the bottom. Why they dont put these in at the plant is beyond me.
 
Sounds like your distributor could be 180* off. Have you ever actually seen the engine run? I screwed around with an old truck I had years ago when I was just learning, and swore I had the distributor in right. Screwed with it for a good week, then a mechanic checked it out and sure enough, I had the distributor in 180* off....even though I swear I checked it several times.

As for the Holley vs. Edelbrock..Really guys...AGAIN?!? They are both good carbs and each have their role. I have had Edlebrocks/Carters on several cars (street cars). I've also had several Holleys. IMO, I prefer edelbrocks on daily driven street cars, but holley for high performance on moderate/highly modified engines. I've tried Holley on some of the cars I used Eddy on, and couldn't get them to run as good as I could with the Eddy, so went back with Eddy. Conversely, an Eddy doesn't perform as well as Holley in racing applications.
Once you know how to tweak a Holley, they are a little more forgiving, but honestly, I think the OP would be better off with an Edelbrock until he gets some more wrench time.
 
Thanks guys, been raining here and getting off work late, my next step is the timing and check the rotor. I will report back with my findings. I plugged the brake vacuum and thought I was going to be driving that night but nope. Must be timing. This is my project car so all I have is time on this one. Thanks for all the input!
 
Yo pishta If I dont get it done myself I gotta call upon your mad scientist mind. You have helped me plenty so far!
 
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