Yeah I agree, their coloring on the springs is way less than effective. I forget after all that's been discussed, Steve. Where is your idle vacuum again? Also where is your initial timing?
Edelbrock springs 1406 and 1405
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
- Start date
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It's got 50 ish miles on them. Some idle time, maybe an hour or 2?
Those in pic have been swapped for Champ RC12YC
Those in pic have been swapped for Champ RC12YC
I would go to the weakest spring you have for a starter. I would also see if you can pull more initial timing into it. To me, it sounds laboring in the video. Also, if one end of the engine looks to be obviously more rich than the other end, then you might have one carb doing most of the damage
Thanks 318WR, the blue spring was the last one I had in it. Between the blue spring and a step down leaner in both rod and jet, I would have thought that would have made a bigger change. All these changes are on the primary carb.
Timing was at 18* approx. I have bumped it up to 20* currently.
FYI 2ndary/front carb is 1405 and is at stock calibration.
Timing was at 18* approx. I have bumped it up to 20* currently.
FYI 2ndary/front carb is 1405 and is at stock calibration.
Thanks Rob, looks like I "guessed" right on spring colors. Heres a screen shot from YouTube video.
Idle vac is 12" and timing is 20*(was at 18*)
Idle vac is 12" and timing is 20*(was at 18*)
So you put the orange springs in?
Not yet, I will after work tomorrow, then some time off to play with it. Scratching my head(and learning hopefully lol) on this one lol
I know. Trust me. The human mind says stronger springs, but that's not how this works. lol
Looking at plug colour can...& often is....deceiving. The plugs require HEAT for a colour reset. A lot of heat. Just a quick run might not be enough to burn off old deposits. You come home, pull a plug, it is still black...& assume it is still rich.
I posted that pic to show spring strengths and which one for base calibration.
It also says "in absence of a gauge" to go strongest, then work down.
It also says "in absence of a gauge" to go strongest, then work down.
I guess what i was trying to say was the weakest spring(leanest) Blue has been installed for a while now. Tonight I will check IMS , idle etc. Will post back tonight.
That's better than too strong.
I already told you Edelbrock said so to me directly directly on the phone, as did Holley when I inquired about the Street demon. But you are correct, neither of them mention it in their instructions.
So rear carb
-swapped out blue springs for orange
-pass side IMS screw replaced(prev one had no effect on idle when screwed all in)
- reset IMS screws to 1 1/4 turns out(max 14" vac, 650 rpm idle in park, 500 in gear.)
Forgot to get vac reading in gear(get it tomorrow)
In the video you can see fuel where air valve weights are. Normal??
Thanks all, oh front carb has 7047 stock rods and orange springs.
Thanks all, hoping for a drive tomorrow.
-swapped out blue springs for orange
-pass side IMS screw replaced(prev one had no effect on idle when screwed all in)
- reset IMS screws to 1 1/4 turns out(max 14" vac, 650 rpm idle in park, 500 in gear.)
Forgot to get vac reading in gear(get it tomorrow)
In the video you can see fuel where air valve weights are. Normal??
Thanks all, oh front carb has 7047 stock rods and orange springs.
Thanks all, hoping for a drive tomorrow.
The front carburetor is where the rich problem is. If you have the air screws turned all the way in and the car still runs, that means that front carburetor is pulling fuel from "somewhere" at idle. Have you had them off to check that the throttle blades only have enough of the transfer slots exposed to make them square? That would be one thing that could do it. That front carburetor would be suspect to me at this point.
Are we messing with two DIFFERENT carburetors here? Is the front a 1405 and the rear a 1406?
Thanks Rob, yes, 1406 to utilize choke if need be, but it's not hooked up. I know I squared up the transfer slots on both, prior to install, but there has been some slight adjusting on the 1406 since installing.
Is that fuel by the air valve weights normal?
I have a set of rods to lean the 1405/front carb
Is that fuel by the air valve weights normal?
I have a set of rods to lean the 1405/front carb
I don't think pulling fuel in the secondaries at idle is normal, no. But here's another conundrum. That 1405 in the front. You do know that's a completely different carburetor, right? That's the performance version while the 1406 is the economy version. They have quite a few differences. I'm unsure if you can make them even by changing things on the 1405, because the boosters themselves are different. There's a thread on here somewhere that highlights the differences and they are quite a few. I'm sure you can get them close ENOUGH to run well, though, it will take some patience. But yeah that rear carburetor passing fuel is bad news. Have you verified 100% that the secondaries are completely shut? If they are cracked open a little, that could be your fuel pull right there.
Ok, so I've discovered a few operator induced errors lol.
Idle screw barely touching nut for lokar throttle cable ballstud.
This caused lack of idle adjustability (transfer slots).
Not sure if this caused the fuel pooling issue at the air valves?
I left carb attached and removed air horn. Cleaned up, checked float drop and level and reassembled.
Swapped throttle return spring and Mcgyvered the throttle cable ballstud to attach where the return spring used to be.
Now 650 rpm in park,
22* inital,
14/15" vacuum(in park)
Orange springs
IMS out 1 1/4 turns.
Grandbabies for a visit and a buddy for some fishing took priority.
I'll take it for test drive later.
Idle screw barely touching nut for lokar throttle cable ballstud.
This caused lack of idle adjustability (transfer slots).
Not sure if this caused the fuel pooling issue at the air valves?
I left carb attached and removed air horn. Cleaned up, checked float drop and level and reassembled.
Swapped throttle return spring and Mcgyvered the throttle cable ballstud to attach where the return spring used to be.
Now 650 rpm in park,
22* inital,
14/15" vacuum(in park)
Orange springs
IMS out 1 1/4 turns.
Grandbabies for a visit and a buddy for some fishing took priority.
I'll take it for test drive later.
Have you considered an o2 gauge? I think it will speed up the process of tuning the carbs. It will help determine when it's lean or rich. As in idle , part throttle or wide open throttle. After some practice you will notice other clues such as how the engine sounds or feels that will tell you if the motor is lean or rich. Not saying you should ignor the sparkplugs.
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