Oh yea! Use as is. No worries! Install a eye valve or plate with "The Proper Gasket!" Over that side port on the intake. That intake will perform really well.
EGR and performance questions
- Thread starter gliderider06
- Start date
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mguner
How many is too many?
^^^ What he said! 80s 318 4bbl cop cars even came with Rochester carbs.... And they worked pretty darn good!
Hersbird
Well-Known Member
I too agree that a properly working EGR helps fuel economy. Some have said it's like making your motor eat it's own chit which is true but that means it reuses the chit and isn't wasting new feul to make new chit. Think theoretically if you could vary the EGR from 0% to 99.9%. You could eliminate the throttle and control the motor power with EGR. Eliminating the throttle would eliminate all of the pumping losses like a modern direct injected diesel. At some point though EGR will not allow the fresh fuel to burn so you can't go much over 30% I think. Still the effctnisnthe samenjust on a smaller scale. Also think of whatever EGR is added, it basically reduces the displacement of the motor that much. Also cold air is good for power but the hot air is good for economy. Although the EGR is hot, it's not as hot as the combustion chamber so it's not going to melt down or something.
Also lean burn will help economy. Lean burn is bad for emissions and for catalytic converters but good for fuel economy. The air pump is the one stupid idea. It doesn't do anything but dilute the tailpipe air with clean outside air to meet some arbitrary tailpipe level the EPA cooked up. I'm surprised they were stupid enough to sign off on such a thing. Maybe it could help finish burning unburt feul in the exhaust but if the rear of the system was designed and tuned right there wouldn't be any in there.
All of these things can be shut off and adjusted in a split second when you want power but most of the time you only need a fraction of the power available. None of these things will do as much for economy as adjusting the way you drive. Little things to big things. I learned a technique called pulse and glide that really helps if you don't have overdrive. Basically you run at you engine's best BSFC up to a speed and then push in the clutch and coast for a time. If you are really ambitious you can actually shut the motor off on the coast ( I don't do that). Then power back up to speed at your motors most efficient load/rpm again and repeat. I can get over 50 mpg (which has 4:33 gears and small tires even though it has OD) with my Forester doing this and not actually vary the speed more then 10 mph (pulse to 65 coast to 55) On Montana's wide open highways you aren't getting in anyone's way either. That is fancy but just simple avoiding having to brake or eliminating idling also helps a bunch.
Also lean burn will help economy. Lean burn is bad for emissions and for catalytic converters but good for fuel economy. The air pump is the one stupid idea. It doesn't do anything but dilute the tailpipe air with clean outside air to meet some arbitrary tailpipe level the EPA cooked up. I'm surprised they were stupid enough to sign off on such a thing. Maybe it could help finish burning unburt feul in the exhaust but if the rear of the system was designed and tuned right there wouldn't be any in there.
All of these things can be shut off and adjusted in a split second when you want power but most of the time you only need a fraction of the power available. None of these things will do as much for economy as adjusting the way you drive. Little things to big things. I learned a technique called pulse and glide that really helps if you don't have overdrive. Basically you run at you engine's best BSFC up to a speed and then push in the clutch and coast for a time. If you are really ambitious you can actually shut the motor off on the coast ( I don't do that). Then power back up to speed at your motors most efficient load/rpm again and repeat. I can get over 50 mpg (which has 4:33 gears and small tires even though it has OD) with my Forester doing this and not actually vary the speed more then 10 mph (pulse to 65 coast to 55) On Montana's wide open highways you aren't getting in anyone's way either. That is fancy but just simple avoiding having to brake or eliminating idling also helps a bunch.
Spoken for truth Mr Tim San !!!
So,as to the egr increasing fuel mileage observations, Yes, & I have done
5 Gas analysis on long term driven vehicles since ...mmm...'92.
(various Mfgr's engine sizes,& powertrain options, all egr equipped)
& Mr AJ/FormS, your 'hypothetical' #'s are NOT far from reality !!!
Go to bridgeanalyzers.com punch in the #'s & ck !!! all the dizzying
real world math You want :iconbigg:
Mr Schrader is a Genius with 5 Gas analysis.
Again I am gonna let this topic 'marinate' before I get into CAFE ratings, Production
costs, EPA emissions standards, Diesel, GDI, & etc...etc...etc...
Apologies gliderider06!!
Long winded I be !!! too excellent topic to pass up !!!
Cafe ratings /production costs/ production costs,were mind numbing during the late 70's/early 80''s carved era.Seriously, 7 to 9 hours to rebuild a GM E2SE( the 81-85 GM 2.8 carb overhaul time.)? This is where I like Ford's aggressiveness. They paid attention to what works,( and smogs,and ran hard), with 60's factory parts, and paid attention to intake & exhaust systems. Take time, see what work was given to a 82-85 carbed GT 5.0 Mustangs. It looks like garbage on paper,it works ( worked..) really well.
if you remove the cats the egr wont work the way it was designed / calibrated ,the orifice on the egr is smaller with more back pressure (cats) if you ever installed a after market one they come with a orifice kit for with cat or without they are calibrated just like a carb to put the right amount of gas into it, put a 350 egr on a 454 and they don't pass emissions, that's why the newer ones (if they use one) is like a isc motor and always changing.
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