Electric Choke help

Slant 6 Engines

  1. Naplm00

    Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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    My choke wasn't working well so i opted to move to electric with the super choke 1231.

    Starting in cold weather is still really challenging so i figured id post here to see if i have it right.


    Image one is how the carb looks after sitting from yesterdays long drive. turned off the car and put the cover on it.
    one.jpg

    Image two is after i have pumped the pedal twice to prime it for starting. You can see that the choke plate has closed to about 75% but not all the way.
    two.jpg

    Image three is the orientation of the fast idle cam and the rest of the assembly. the choke plate is still at 75%
    three.png

    image four is if i manually rotate the fast idle cam fully "up" this allows the choke plate to completely close....this is where i *think* i need to be. The electric choke mechanism will fully close the choke plate without assistance if I pull the fast idle cam into the position manually.
    four.png


    The temp was 68 F when i took these pics

    I have the choke set to one notch richer as per the instructions since i added a 3/8 carb spacer gasket

    Car runs great when warmed up just slightly
     
  2. slantsixdan

    slantsixdan =..=

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    The choke plate needs to snap all the way shut on its own when you open the throttle with the engine cold. It shouldn't be a death blade that'll chop your finger off, but neither should it be just barely closing on its own. Dial in some more preload (spring tension) on the electric choke unit. Also keep in mind that carburetor base gasket thickness affects choke operation. A thick gasket effectively slacks off the choke adjustment.
     
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    • Naplm00

      Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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      Follow up Dan. When the pedal is depressed the fast idle cam is blocking the choke plate from fully closing.

      So you are saying that it should snap shut in the time that it take for the throttle to be opened and shut? in image three, if i try to force the plate to be fully closed it cannot move any further due to the slot orientation in the fast idle cam.

      Where is the correct location for the fast idle cam if the carb is operating normally? fully vertical like in pic 4 or somewhat vertical in pic 3?
       
    • Murray

      Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      After a long drive and you shut off the engine- you have been on curb idle, the fast idle cam has rotated out of way. The next day upon startup the engine is now cold. Press on the pedal one time allowing the fast idle cam to swing into place and the choke butterfly to fully close. You may need to pump the pedal one or two more times. Upon starting, hit the pedal one more time to reset the fast idle to a lessor spot on the cam. The butterfly will typically be about 40* open. 1500RPM is a good fast idle speed. Depending on the weather, the butterfly will gradually open fully, and with one more stab of the pedal should return to curb idle. Adjust your choke thermostat and linkage to achieve these results.
       
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      • Naplm00

        Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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        Great info, question is what should the orientation of the fast idle cam be when the choke plate is fully closed ? Vertical like in pic 4 or less so like in pic 3 ?
         
      • slantsixdan

        slantsixdan =..=

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        Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. The fast idle cam position adjustment is covered in that material and in the factory service manual.
         
      • Naplm00

        Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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        yea ive read through it and its not specific enough on the cam position relative to the choke plate

        thanks for the help tho


        I will also mention that the directions that come with the choke are for a 65 or later car. It has the later style carb in the pic and the choke assembly is reversed in one pic but not the other. It does only fit on in the direction that i assembled it
         
        Last edited: Oct 1, 2019
      • Naplm00

        Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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        nvm, found it in the choke specific link...hopefully tightening up the choke and bending some links will get it setup right/

        I do have some "play" in the linkage..ill post a video
         
      • Murray

        Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Hard to see in the pics. When cold, the choke butterfly should be fully closed which should place the fast idle cam in it's highest position. After starting, the linkage should adjust to place the fast idle screw in the 2nd or first step of the cam.
         
      • Naplm00

        Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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        yea i think i have a combination of not enough tension on the E choke, and a misadjusted fast idle rod (needs to be bent)

        will report back!
         
      • slantsixdan

        slantsixdan =..=

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        Keep reading, then, dude; in the FSM there are specific, detailed, illustrated instructions on how to adjust the fast idle cam position.
        There's no difference between a '64 and a '65 as regards the choke, so "These instructions are for a '65 or later car" doesn't actually wash.

        I think you are making this more complicated than it is.
         
      • Naplm00

        Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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        hey man if you read my posts you can see that i did find it , buried and I thanked you.

        Im obviously new to this and not trying to "make it ore complicated that it is" I am trying to understand why things need to be adjusted, not just how. RTFM isnt helpful in understanding why.

        I do appreciate your and others knowledge, so thanks for that.


        On the instructions I am just reporting what is written and that , yes, it does not make sense.
         
      • slantsixdan

        slantsixdan =..=

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        Please excuse me, then -- I'm in the middle of clearing out and closing down the family home before the bulldozers come for it, so I'm kind of distracted and unslept.
         
      • Naplm00

        Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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        its all good, we are all here to learn...thanks for understanding
         
      • desy500

        desy500 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Sorry to hear that Dan , hope you days get better
         
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        • Naplm00

          Naplm00 Well-Known Member

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          reporting back.

          I have moved the Echoke mechanism as far forward in the slots of its bracket as possible, i then partially flattened the fast idle cam choke link to make it longer by about 4mm. I also moved the "preload" of the echoke to the 2nd richer slot from the center. The main culprit was the choke link as it was limiting the total travel of the choke plate, keeping it from fully shutting

          Initial startup is now markedly better and the engine runs smoothly at the highest step of the fast idle cam. From dead cold with an ambient temp of about 50F two pumps on the accel and a turn of they key it starts quickly.

          I do feel however that the vac pulloff is too aggressive in its timing and will be spreading that link by a few mm to keep it on the highest step longer. As when it moves down to the step below the highest step it will slightly stumble. I may also just fiddle with the idle mixture screw.

          The real test is when in a few weeks it gets down the high 40s at night here in northern California.


          TLDR: its much better after some minor adjustments, worlds better than the stock choke.
           
          Last edited: Oct 4, 2019
        • slantsixdan

          slantsixdan =..=

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          The index marks aren't as helpful as we might wish; you might need to dial in more preload (spring tension) than the marks would seem to indicate. The pointer might even go off the scale. Focus on getting it to behave properly, then if necessary make a new mark. Also refer to this.
           
        • pt70

          pt70 Well-Known Member

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          I'd start by disconnecting the choke rod at the carb. Move the choke plate fully closed [with a little throttle] and the fast idle should be on the highest step. Now move the choke heater rod in and out to verify that it can fully open and fully close the choke plate. Reconnect the choke rod and clip. Push throttle lever and open choke plate. The fast idle lever should drop. Release throttle lever. The choke plate should be ~1/4 from full open and the idle lever on first step or almost on first step.

          Hit the throttle. The choke plate should slam shut. Start the car. The engine should kind of race. Hit the throttle again and the engine should idle down to 1200-1500 rpm and run smooth. If not, push the choke plate in either direction to smooth it out and then adjust the choke pull off rod with a narrow screwdriver or a pair of pliers. This shortens or lengthens the rod. Just a little at a time. The rod is the U shaped rod in pics 3 and 4. It may take a few mornings to get it right.

          There is a fast idle speed screw and an idle speed screw. And an idle mixture screw. I believe you have a Holley 1920 carb.
           
        • slantsixdan

          slantsixdan =..=

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          No, it shouldn't. If it slams shut, there's way too much spring tension on it.
           
        • Killer6

          Killer6 Well-Known Member

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          The degree of "slam" is entirely based on the temperature,....if it's -5degF it's going to snap shut pretty hard, if it's 68degF it will close pretty softly..........
           
        • slantsixdan

          slantsixdan =..=

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          Snapping shut is yes. Slamming shut is no.
           
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