......or if you can weld aluminum, you can do it yourself.
Electric fan
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j par
Well-hung Member
Helioching is probably not the best option. Likely you can just bend the tabs flatter or cut them off and make your own brackets. I bought a two core radiator that just barely fit in between the rails and I measured the height and put the biggest radiator in there I could with the tanks on the side. It's kind of a Chevy style...
On the other note you might be able to loosen your motor mounts and your transmission mount and pry everything back just a quarter inch maybe get a little there....
I was just looking on summit racing and they do make electric fans 2 and 5/8 in thick.. if you can make just a half inch of room you'll be fine...
On the other note you might be able to loosen your motor mounts and your transmission mount and pry everything back just a quarter inch maybe get a little there....
I was just looking on summit racing and they do make electric fans 2 and 5/8 in thick.. if you can make just a half inch of room you'll be fine...
Just to clarify, all A-bodies, 67-76, have the same radiator and core support locations. Core support to fire wall is the same for all of them.
Yeah, Griffen's electric fan set up includes two Spal fans, that move a combined 1,694 cfm. That's about half the CFM you need to move to successfully cool one of these cars. The fact that they sell that as a combo for an A-body is darn near criminal, there's no way that would work.
Griffin ExactFit ComboUnit Radiator Details for - 1971 Dodge Demon PartNumber: CU-70154
By comparison, the Ford Contour fans I have on my car push ~3,000 cfm on low speed and about 5,000 cfm on high speed. Under 2,500 cfm isn't even worth trying.
Ouch. Yeah that's a problem.
You have to be careful even with the really thick two core radiators. For example, if the tubes are 1.25", that core will be more than 2.5" thick. Even with the core right up to the support that will be about all the space you have if you want to run a decent electric fan. The OE Contour set up I run is 3" deep in the middle, and 3.5" to the back of the motors. It's not the thinnest set up available, but it's not far off of it either...
Yeah but do they pull more than 3,000 cfm?
....and that right there is why these radiator companies should be a bit more specific. We simply don't have any extra room. I guess it's too much to ask to get something right. lol
Mig with a spool gun would probably work best I suppose.
should be clickin
Member
Thanks for your help fellas . One more question. Will an e or b body radiator work in an a body
I guess if it's narrow enough to fit tween the frame rails, yeah. It's just something you're gonna have to experiment with.
Depends. OE radiators, yes. Aftermarket radiators, maybe not. The factory 22" and 26" radiators fit, but some of the aftermarket B/E radiators are taller and don't work well in an A-body.
Technically the Champion 26" 3-core radiator I have in my Duster was listed as a B/E body radiator.
If it hasn’t already been mentioned, those brackets are way too wide. Look at how far away a shroud would mount to the flange. And when you move the radiator closer to the front where it belongs the shroud distance away from the radiator would be even worse.
j par
Well-hung Member
I think I mentioned this but what I did was measure the distance in between the frame rails like how wide it could possibly be. Then I measured how tall it can be before it hits the hood. Then I noted that the water went out on the top left and came out on the bottom right. I plugged that criteria into summit racing and had a selection that would fit the bill. I ordered it and it was about 150 bucks or so.. my duster now has the biggest radiator that could possibly fit in the hole., Again it's the Chevy style with the tanks on the side and I even bought a Chevy style cover for the top of it because the tanks on the side leave the top looking pretty raw.. it's a large two row and the stroker motor never gets over 195 and on the freeway it actually gets down to 150 sometimes because I don't have a thermostat...
Or....
You could get an OEM or OEM style copper brass rad and a factory style shroud and the correct fan, pulleys and water pump and not have any problems.
You could get an OEM or OEM style copper brass rad and a factory style shroud and the correct fan, pulleys and water pump and not have any problems.
I agree. I had a very generous member GIVE me a factory 3 row radiator for Vixen. I had a 3 row chinkesium aluminum radiator in her.....and it cooled fine, but it was the ill fittinest sumbitch ever. This factory radiator is like a wet dream come true.
j par
Well-hung Member
I figured this is where triple r would have went immediately...
The op seems to want electric fans due to a fitment issue rather than a cooling issue.
I for one have no problem with electric fans but like electronic ignition it adds a complexity that points and mechanical fans does not
j par
Well-hung Member
I don't have a customer that has points in their vehicle. Every one of them I've convinced to pitch those archaic points then put in some potronics or some kind of electronics ignition...
Also I'm not a fan of the whirling blade of death I like an electric fan...
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
And I paid through the nose for it.
I started to, but I'm kinda trying to give him some ideas to work with what he has. That seems to always be the most frugal route.
Holy Crap!!! I just looked up that combo and Summit sells it for $1,633!!!
That’s nuts. That’s a cookie sheet with some flaps cut in it with some dramatically undersized 10” fans bolted to it. Like I said, 1,694 cfm is about half what you’d realistically need to be successful running electric fans as a standalone.
And Summit advertises that combo as only moving 1,498 cfm, so even less than what Griffin claims. There’s literally no way that would work. It’s even a 22” radiator.
I think when I bought my Champion 26” 3 core, the Dorman knock off of the Contour fans, and my fancy digital fan controller I was in it for under $600. The fans are still only $143. There are a lot of really expensive electric fans out there that won’t pull what the Contour fans are rated at.
And people jump all over it since it's a name brand and they "think" it'll work. That's almost theft.
I used a Chevy HHR fan on my 22” radiator setup that is really limited in space between the radiator and water pump.
There’s definitely an argument for fraud. That whole set up is shady as hell. There’s zero effort put into that “fan shroud”, no design to it at all.
I mean, I know my 340 makes a bunch more horsepower than stock, but with such a low CFM rating I really don’t see that set up working well even for a stock 318.
That’s a good fan, but I think the OP will still have to fix his radiator mounts first to have the room even for the HHR set up.
j par
Well-hung Member
I built this one probably six seven years ago for my duster. It was just the factory radiator and a piece of aluminum sheet metal I had where I measured it and bent the edges three quarters of an inch.. I think I got the fans for like 40 bucks from a member that used to be on a 440 motorhome engine?.. works fine for my 318 but when I got the stroker motor it just couldn't keep up... I've got it out in the shed I think I'm going to take it out here in the next week or so to reinstall it in my duster..
Heck that’s probably already a better set up than what Griffin is selling for $1,600. Maybe down on CFM if it wouldn’t keep up with the stroker, but it would be hard to be lower output than the Griffin set up.
j par
Well-hung Member
I actually put the right stuff silicone around the edges of it, it's sealed in very well..
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